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Naked P-51D 1/32 (fine structure models)


oppenheimer

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Thanks for showing your work, it really helps those of us who are considering building this kit understand what we are getting into.

 

I'd like to build this kit, but I have two reservations.  I've worked a lot with PE, but a chronic problem has getting reliable connections between parts.  A problem with CA (for me) has been that if I use a small amount that does't show in the joints, the assemblies are very fragile.  If I use enough to make the assemblies reasonably sturdy, the glue shows in the seams.  I'm referring mostly to joints where you have two plates joined at a 90 degree angle.  Plates on top of plates are no issue.

 

Because of this, I spent a lot of time learning to use solder paste and a propane gun to solder the parts together.  This has worked great, but the heat discolors the PE.  Not a problem if you're going to paint it anyway, but in a kit like this it would be good to leave it bare metal.  

 

When I say solder paste, I'm referring to the paste that is used by plumbers - it is made of very finely ground silver solder (almost like grains of sugar) in a fluid that evaporates when heated.  There is a form of solder flux that is called "solder paste" and that is not what I mean.

 

A second issue is that PE (at least mine) tends to tarnish over time.  I think it is possible to give it a light transparent sealer with an air brush, just wondering if you think this will be a this problem.

 

Anything you can share about your adhesives and construction would be much appreciated.  I have to restrain myself from buying this right now.

 

Thanks.

 

I use a small hot-air gun (manufactured by Proxxon). It allows to assemble plenty of parts to be soldered together, paint the soldering paste where needed, and then blow the hot air on the lot. It works a charm, does not discolour the brass, and avoids the problem of some parts de-soldering when you heat the assembly to solder some more. The gun has to be small however, otherwise you will have too much hot air for the size of the parts/assemblies you're working on. This Proxxon hot-air gun is just perfect for the job, with two temperature settings and the smallest nozzle around 1" diameter.

 

Hubert.

 

PS: nice work on this Mustang. The Merlin is beautiful !

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Ok Guys, so i started with one of the wing today, first of all, i painted all the metal again with Tamiya Metal Primer, and guess what?, the CA work like a charm over the metal, i am using SUPER GOLD thin CA.

 

the instruction ask to use the CA on the joints between the ribs and main wing spar, but in that place there is too much play between the pieces so i am applying the CA on the wing plank under the ribs, and the result is a solid contruction, and the CA wont be visible, here are two pics of the my test, just placed 4 ribs, in the pics they are not painted, just bare metal, i have just tried to paint with zinccromate green and looks great, still have to figure it out how to weather the pieces so it wont look like a toy

 

IMG_4241_zpsf1090c92.jpg

 

IMG_4242_zpsa89bd2d3.jpg

Edited by oppenheimer
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Wow, this is really cool.  The full structure really shows the ins and outs of the Mustang.  And your last P-51 was beautifully painted, I'm sure this one will turn out just as well.  

 

 

Does the metal engine weigh down the front end, considering the rest can't be that heavy?

 

 

 

 

Matt  :frantic:

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