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About TimHepplestone

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    Hooked For Life
  • Birthday 01/30/1969

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    Johannesburg, South Africa

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  1. Yep. Got a Dspaie circle cutter from them. No problems
  2. I am blessed / cursed with some humbrol acrylic gloss. Sometimes it works beautifully and other times it develops tiny cracks as it dries
  3. Fantastic paint job. Which metallics did you use?
  4. Awesome picture. Thanks for posting. As to the original question on this thread note a distinctly hard edge to the camouflage on the fuselage
  5. Thanks for all the great responses. I found this in an edition of Wingleader magazine ( a great publication by the way), it’s a mosquito that took part in the Amiens raid which is close to the airframe I want to model. Once again the edges of the camouflage are tight but slightly feathered. If anyone has reference photos of mosquitoes showing weathering I would greatly appreciate it.
  6. They’re some really interesting posts on this forum. Frankly, when I started this thread it was with a mosquito in mind and not a Spit, and in the vain hope that there was a standard followed by the RAF during WW2 . Obviously this is not the case. Just another thing that make this hobby so fascinating
  7. That’s a great picture. I guess it confirms the old adage of check your references.
  8. Recently in several model magazines I’m seeing more builds where paper or tape masks , applied flush to the model, have even used to create hard edged demarcations on RAF camouflage subjects. My preference is always to create a softer edged appearance either by using a mask slightly lifted off the surface or by freehand spraying. Does anyone have any thoughts on what would be more historically accurate though? My reference photos seem to show a slightly soft edge although interpreting old period photos can be difficult Thanks in advance Tim
  9. Added myself. A scarce South African it seems
  10. Thanks Sophie. Picked it up second hand from a Facebook group. One of the few valid reasons for Facebook’s existence
  11. Good God man. I am gobsmacked. This is just on another level
  12. Milliput will work but recently I’ve used a product called Perfect Plastic putty. It’s water soluble so can be cleaned with a damp finger, so also no sanding and it dries a lot faster than milliput
  13. As said oils over base coat of acrylics. I used tamiya flat flesh, buff, and deck tan to create “panels” The. Burnt umber, and a mix of dark red and brown oils dragged across the surface. Light coat of tamiya clear orange to seal it
  14. Wow. Fantastic work, Really wish one of the big manufacturers would bring out a commercial kit in 1/32
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