RLWP Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 And you guys complain about rigging WW1 planes! I spent the best part of an evening going cross eyed threading tiny bits of fabric(!) through minuscule bits of etch Must be mad* Richard *the lot of us! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dashotgun Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 (edited) I have used them and they are beautiful when done but rediculous to build. Take a look the fine mold seat belts it will save your sanity https://www.amazon.com/Fine-Molds-NH4-aviation-opportunities/dp/B007UM7J4Q/ref=sr_1_2?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1519931846&sr=1-2&keywords=fine+mold+seat+belts++1%2F32 http://web.ipmsusa3.org/content/german-aircraft-seatbelt-set Edited March 1, 2018 by dashotgun LSP_K2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted March 1, 2018 Author Share Posted March 1, 2018 Too late - the men in white coats are at the door Jeff and Troy Molitor 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BloorwestSiR Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 Where possible, I leave the buckles attached to the frets and thread the belts through them first. Then when I detach the buckles, they don't go flying off into the ether. This works as long as the attachment points aren't in the way of the belts. Carl CANicoll, Rick Griewski, scvrobeson and 5 others 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted March 1, 2018 Author Share Posted March 1, 2018 Where possible, I leave the buckles attached to the frets and thread the belts through them first. Then when I detach the buckles, they don't go flying off into the ether. This works as long as the attachment points aren't in the way of the belts. Carl I did that, and cut a slight taper on the fabric too It can still make rigging look easy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1to1scale Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 Where possible, I leave the buckles attached to the frets and thread the belts through them first. Then when I detach the buckles, they don't go flying off into the ether. This works as long as the attachment points aren't in the way of the belts. Carl Dude, you are a freaking genius! I literally spend 15 minutes looking for a buckle last Sunday, i cant believe i never thought of that. Here are the $4 belts I make. I bought a bunch of old (techmod) PE buckles from a local HS for $3 each, then I slice an edge off a dollar bill to fit. MikeC, RLWP, Zero77 and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_K2 Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 I tried the HGW belts once, and swore I'd never do it again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bomber_County Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 Love them, hated them until leaving them on the fret,..... MikeC, Rick Griewski, Bill_S and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Hog Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 I have used them and they are beautiful when done but rediculous to build. Take a look the fine mold seat belts it will save your sanity https://www.amazon.com/Fine-Molds-NH4-aviation-opportunities/dp/B007UM7J4Q/ref=sr_1_2?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1519931846&sr=1-2&keywords=fine+mold+seat+belts++1%2F32 http://web.ipmsusa3.org/content/german-aircraft-seatbelt-set I have difficulty shaping these belts. too brittle .Am I doing something wrong? Seat belts break at the adjustment hardware point... Any help appreciated, Dick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plasto Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 I used them for the first time on my P-51 build and TBH they were not that bad. A bit fiddly but they look great once done... I also wish I'd thought of threading them on the fret. I'll keep that tip in mind for the next set I use. LSP_K2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Clunkmeister Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 I have difficulty shaping these belts. too brittle .Am I doing something wrong? Seat belts break at the adjustment hardware point... Any help appreciated, Dick Heat them a bit first. They mold nicely then. But I still prefer, and live by, HGW belts. An awesome product IMHO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shoggz Posted March 2, 2018 Share Posted March 2, 2018 I've tried pretty much all the options. HGW fabric RB's Fine Molds Plastic Eduard PE Eduard steel. Barracuda moulded on The plastic and steel ones are the easiest to use as all the fiddly threading (and painting) is pre done for you. ...but the HGW and RB ones look the most realistic. In fairness, the ones that I have done that look the best are the BarracudaCast Bf109G pre-moulded ones as I was able to paint them nicely! MikeC 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mozart Posted March 2, 2018 Share Posted March 2, 2018 I much prefer RB Productions belts, still fiddly but better than HGW in my opinion. Max R Palimaka 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero77 Posted March 2, 2018 Share Posted March 2, 2018 My favourite are the RB ones, too. But the HGW are not too bad. I dont think they are especially difficult to assemble. You just need some good tweezers and calm you down before starting. Building them inside a box may be a good idea if you drop a micro-tiny PE buckle. I prefer much more paper or fabric belts than PE belts. MikeC 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted March 2, 2018 Author Share Posted March 2, 2018 I dont think they are especially difficult to assemble. You just need some good tweezers and calm you down before starting. Let's turn this around then If you can assemble HGW fabric belts, you can rig a biplane. Only one of the parts in rigging is much bigger and easy to handle Richard Jeff and MikeC 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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