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Focke-Wulf FW 190 F-8 - 6./SG 10 - Revell 1/32


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I just started the BB'ing with the 0.2 needle/nozzle for the airbrush, diluted white MRP paint 50/50, low pressure and I squeeze the cheeks.
I stop there for tonight because as you see it is very long to paint.
And not to break the antenna, I still have a little trick: a bowl of bamboo fiber, cut to let the vertical stab pass.

Thus the antenna never touches anything and should remain intact long enough.
I can always dream…
I don’t know how it works in your countries, but in France, disposable objects can no longer be made of plastic.
You can admire the makeup brush I stole from my wife, and she’s still looking for it!
It allows me to remove a maximum of dust on the model before painting.









Edited by Furie
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Hi Andy, well your TA 152 is also fine from what I see.
We both left on a BB'ing and in fact I just take advantage of the lines of rivets that I drew to use them as so many «masks» for the white/ black contrast.
But I’m wondering if I shouldn’t force more on the white to be denser. 
Tomorrow I continue and finish the white paint and the first shade I would paint will be the RLM 77 under the wings.

It is still a very long work but I prefer this technique which proves to be very effective when you start painting the camouflage shades.

And the transparency of MRPs lends itself very well to this technique.
I forgot to mention that I sanded the whole model with Micromesh 12000 + water before painting white. I was able to eliminate some parts of the model that were a little «sandy» and then make them very smooth.

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I just finished the wings under/ above and the right side of the fuselage.
I’ll stop there for tonight or my mental health will take a hit…
It’s a crazy thing in terms of work volume but it’s okay, I’m having fun anyway.


Or not...






The left wing is painted in white with 30% thinner and the right wing with 50% thinner.
That’s why the white paint on the left seems denser than on the right.
Moreover, in my opinion, the maximum dilution for MRP will remain for me at 30% :









Edited by Furie
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The BB'ing is finally finished on the whole plane.
I did color tests to determine which paint I was going to take my RLM 77.
I have 2 MRP paintings that were quite close: MRP 98 and MRP 134.
I choose the MRP 134 because it is a light gray quite neutral and close to the FS 36492.

Below the progress of the BB'ing and my mule with the left to right : MRP 98/ MRP 66 (RLM 76) / MRP 134.
If you have an opinion to give me on this RLM 77 I am interested because tomorrow it will be painted on the underside of the wing as well as on the top of the wing!









Edited by Furie
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Hello Mike, as I mentioned at the beginning of topic, I used this discussion and these photos:










It is clear that the lightest paint on the top of the wing is not RLM 75 but certainly RLM 76 or 77.

I made the bet of the RLM 77 which is just as credible as the RLM 76.
These 2 paintings are not very far in terms of contrast on the B&W photos and it will give a patchwork quite usual of what we saw at the end of the war.

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Well, I’m not really done with BB'ing: I forgot to paint aluminum in some wear areas…
So I passed a thin layer of aluminum MRP then 3 layers of hairspray spaced 15 minutes each.
For ease, I sprayed hair spray in a small container that I then poured into my airbrush.

The lacquer is so cold that it makes a lot of bubbles in the metal bucket of my Infinity.

So I waited a few minutes for these bubbles to disappear.

You will appreciate that the hairspray I stole which my wife kindly lent me is «vegan»…
Once the lacquer is dried, I redone my BB'ing over the aluminum paint.








Then finally came the time to start the camouflage.
So I chose the MRP 134 to paint the RLM 77. 
I hesitated a long time between him and the MRP 98, and in the end I really do not regret my choice because this MRP 134 is a neutral light gray, without bluish or greenish reflection which suits me perfectly and corresponds to the idea that I have of this primer.
So I diluted it with 30% Mr Color Leveling, 0.4 mm needle/nozzle and 1.2 b pressure.
I started from the underside of the wings by being careful not to overload my model with paint to master the transparency of the MRP 134 and to highlight the BB'ing.
I preferred to stop because it is very easy to overdo it. 
Then I painted the top of the wings with the RLM 77.
Beforehand I drew very lightly the contours of the RLM 77 with a pencil by slightly increasing the surface of this paint.
Indeed I will paint the RLM 83 with masks and this paint will cover the RLM 77.
In the end, well I would say that it is very beautiful, maybe the effect is a little too pronounced but I can always put back RLM 77 if I want to reduce the contrast with BB'ing which is below.
Anyway, I like what I did.
Tomorrow I continue the top of the wings with the RLM 83. 















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Thanks for the compliments, Kev.
In fact, camouflage painting is really the easiest step to do because all the main work was done upstream with BB'ing.
Which itself results from the complete riveting of the aircraft.
For the rest I only followed tutorials seen on YT.
There are so many, just choose the one or the ones that seem best. ;)

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18 hours ago, Furie said:

The lacquer is so cold that it makes a lot of bubbles in the metal bucket of my Infinity.


Not sure what you mean here. Are you seeing actual bubbles forming in the cup or what appears to be the pigments moving around? 

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There are no pigments in this lacquer, it is simply transparent.
But as I use it as a spray in a small plastic jar it is already very cold and when I transfer it into my airspray which is metallic, there must be a very strong heat exchange that makes the liquid lacquer start to make a lot of small bubbles.
I’ll take a picture next time. 

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