Focke-Wulf FW 190 F-8 - 6./SG 10 - Revell 1/32

[Furie]

Today it was the RLM 83/ MRP-072.
So I made soft cardboard masks, glued under the 2~3mm thick foam tape then double sided tape and then repositionable/low adhesion tape to not damage the RLM 77. 
The RLM 83 is diluted with 30% thinner then I painted making sure to have my airbrush at 90° of the surface to be painted so as not to risk the paint passing under the masks.
In the end I get a fairly light blur that I would have a hard time getting without them.
The result seems good in terms of color contrasts and correct (but no more) as for the technical realization.
I await your opinions, comments and advice.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[MikeMaben]

Looks OK to me Denis.  

[Furie]

I painted the RLM 76/ MRP 066, as usual with 30% thinner.
I made some mistakes that ripped small pieces of the Archer kit and some RLM 83 on the right wing-fuselage connection.
I like the effect of RLM 76 with BB'ing and I leave like that for now.

The contrast and color difference between the RLM 76 and the RLM 77 is present but very discreet which is a good thing.

 

 

 

 

 

Tomorrow I try to erase the errors above: someone knows how to correct this small surface of RLM 83 that was ripped off? Mastic? Light sanding? Other?
 

 

 

 

Then I would paint the 2 horizontal stab with RLM 83/75.

And then the masks to paint the black and white crosses.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 6, 2023 by Furie

[monthebiff]

Very precise work Furie, looking very good indeed.

 

Regards.Andy 

[mywifehatesmodels]

Fantastic work, Denis! I'm really loving the color building that you are doing here. It's looking great!

 

For the ripped paint spot, I would try a polishing pad/cloth and then keep going over it with the base color. It may take a few sessions, but it will eventually even out. I had a similar issue on the cowl of my Dora. I had purchased a set of polishing pads from Hobby Lobby, which has an assortment from something like 3200 grit, all the way to 12000. They have really come in handy for this type of thing. 

 

Cheers,

 

John

[Furie]

Thank you Andy and John, the day would have been perfect without this piece of RLM 83 that went to another dimension…
I will try the micromesh + BB'ing + RLM 83.
Life is only an eternal beginning!

 

C'est la vie !   

[MikeMaben]

12 hours ago, Furie said:

       ... someone knows how to correct this small surface of RLM 83 that was ripped off? Mastic? Light sanding? Other?

Hi Denis, I'd mask fairly close to the area, then sand with some fine sandpaper just to feather the edges of it.

The blended area should look like and oval, then repaint.  Your progress is looking quite nice.

 

...oops , just saw John's post above. Similar but you'll know what to do.  

 

 

 

Edited November 7, 2023 by MikeMaben

[Woody V]

On 11/4/2023 at 8:17 AM, Furie said:

There are no pigments in this lacquer, it is simply transparent.
But as I use it as a spray in a small plastic jar it is already very cold and when I transfer it into my airspray which is metallic, there must be a very strong heat exchange that makes the liquid lacquer start to make a lot of small bubbles.
I’ll take a picture next time. 

 

If there are air bubbles coming up from the bottom of the cup, there is an air leak at the point where the trigger contacts the air seal. I had this exact same problem with my H&K airbrushes. I'd like to see a picture.

[Furie]

Hi William, if there was a leak in my airbrush, then these bubbles would also be visible with MRP paint for example, and with all liquids in general. 
While these bubbles appear only with hairspray lacquer.
It is therefore a chemical reaction liquid cold hairspray lacquer/ metal airbrush. 

Edited November 7, 2023 by Furie

[Borsos]

2 hours ago, Furie said:

Hi William, if there was a leak in my airbrush, then these bubbles would also be visible with MRP paint for example, and with all liquids in general. 
While these bubbles appear only with hairspray lacquer.
It is therefore a chemical reaction liquid cold hairspray lacquer/ metal airbrush. 

As long as you don’t invent a completely new kind of explosive in the paint cup of your airbrush by pure coincidence, everything is fine 

Wonderful progress on your paint job!

[Furie]

Well, today no Seveso-like chemical experiments but I fixed all my little mistakes while making new ones…
It’s amazing, isn’t it??  

So sanding of the right wing/fuselage connection with 7000/9000/12000 + BB'ing + RLM 83. 
Same for the underside of the ailerons and I ended this day with the black and white crosses on the wings.
Normally nothing complicated except that the Revell notice is false, that my documentation cheerfully contradicts itself for the position of these 4 crosses.
I finally found what I was looking for and I set up the 4 Montex masks after positioning them on low adhesive tape «Frisket» which is repositionable.
As expected, I took a long time to position them well, because it is like the Bungee, it is not after having started that we must ask ourselves if we have prepared everything well...
Everything went well, the crosses have the right size, the right color, in the right position and are not twisted.

Except I ripped out another small part of the Archer Kit…  

The crosses are really in the right place and are very well positioned compared to the RLM 77/83 camouflage. 

 

"That's one small step for Denis, one giant leap for my FW 190."

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 7, 2023 by Furie

[MikeMaben]

Nice fix 

[mywifehatesmodels]

34 minutes ago, MikeMaben said:

Nice fix 

Agree. Like it never happened.

[Shoggz]

That is looking really great Denis.

[Furie]

Thanks to all of you, but it looks like I did the easy part.
Now I have to start this fuselage…