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Cool...................Ive even seen people take and use a diamond pattern print off something hard to "roll" or imprint the pattern onto a piece of foil or other. This seems like a lot easier manor of accomplishing that padded pattern. 

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2 hours ago, AlexM said:

Thank you all for your encouraging words :frantic:

 

 

Not at all, very interesting discussion.

 

Talking about the Marauder, since threre are some news about the Resin2Detail kit, I'm very motivated to get this one finished. Sooner or later, I'll have to make a decision about the interior colors.  From what I have read so far, I don't think that everyting was interior green over all (like in the museeum machine). The facts seem to be a bit unclear about the Marauder. I'm thinking about doing everything behind the cockpit/radio operater section in aluminium (like I've already done with the bomb bays). For the forward fuselage starting at the radio operator section, I think about olive drab. 

 

Do you have any clues what might be accurate :hmmm:

 

Alex

Hi Alex, great work. I am absolutely no expert on colours, but this thread has some good photos of Flak Bait, including the areas behind the cockpit:

 

https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/hyperscale/flak-bait-photos-t152805.html

 

This page has a nice photo too, which shows the variety of colours used:

 

https://airandspace.si.edu/stories/editorial/where-flak-bait

 

Hope those help.

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29 minutes ago, thammond65 said:

Hi Alex, great work. I am absolutely no expert on colours, but this thread has some good photos of Flak Bait, including the areas behind the cockpit:

 

https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/hyperscale/flak-bait-photos-t152805.html

 

This page has a nice photo too, which shows the variety of colours used:

 

https://airandspace.si.edu/stories/editorial/where-flak-bait

 

Hope those help.

 

Oh, this is great - and confusing. I see aluminium, with some blue anti-corrosion coat :mental:, black, interior green, and some ... maybe olive drab. This can only go wrong :D

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On ‎9‎/‎14‎/‎2018 at 6:12 AM, AlexM said:

The facts seem to be a bit unclear about the Marauder. I'm thinking about doing everything behind the cockpit/radio operater section in aluminium (like I've already done with the bomb bays). For the forward fuselage starting at the radio operator section, I think about olive drab. 

 

Do you have any clues what might be accurate :hmmm:

 

Alex

Alex, I think you wouldn't be far off by following what is seen in Flak Bait. Pat Rodgers, owner of Aircraft Restoration Services in Murrieta, California is restoring B-26MA 40-1370, which I've visited. Pat actually bought two airframes (40-1381) but is using 1381 for parts and patterns. These were unfortunately chopped up into sections by scrappers but saved in the early 2000s from its original 1942 crash location at King Salmon, Alaska.  I've discussed with Pat the topic of interior paint. What he found was an original unpainted tail section, bomb bay and radio room interior. The cockpit was painted but I don't know what color. This is an early version of the Marauder with short wings, but Flak Bait interior finishes look very similar to what he found while restoring his Marauder. What the NMUSAF did by painting its B-26G interior with chromate green was far off the mark. Its a mystery to me why they did that. Pat has unfortunately decided to sell the project, but you can see the Marauder here. http://www.platinumfighters.com/b26

 

By the way, I think your design process for printing the parts is excellent. Designing the fuselage for printing with a .5mm "gap" for the saw cut is really clever.  I'm an architect in the U.S., and many professional offices use SketchUp for its ease and speed. I know its used by architects worldwide. I didn't know it could be used as you have, and I came away impressed by your clever use of the software. I think for many years SketchUp was somewhat limited in the kinds of surfaces it could create, but that has changed for the better in the last few years. I just hate the "stickiness" but using layers gets around that. I appreciate you sharing your process using Sketchup with us.

 

Since you printed your fuselage generally along the original's manufacturing break points, this could give you an opportunity to create the short wing version as well. The center section and nose were the same for all models (with modest differences)  whereas the tail section, vertical stabilizer and wings/nacelles were enlarged starting at the B-26B-10 production.

 

One question: how much sanding is required to smooth the printed surface of the wings and fuselage to the level we see in your photos? I think the photos you've posted is after you've processed it by sanding and using spray filler, unless I'm mistaken. I'm curious about the output of your printer and how much prep you need to do after printing.

Edited by PeanutGallery

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On 9/16/2018 at 2:20 AM, PeanutGallery said:

One question: how much sanding is required to smooth the printed surface of the wings and fuselage to the level we see in your photos? I think the photos you've posted is after you've processed it by sanding and using spray filler, unless I'm mistaken. I'm curious about the output of your printer and how much prep you need to do after printing.

 

Hi, thanks for your input concering the interior colors. Here is a picture of a fuselage part in bright light. The parts definitely need sanding and filler. Along the two bright areas, you can can see the result of some sanding. It stil looks rough under bright light, but already feels quite smooth after a bit sanding. There are some deeper areas that are hard to get rid of. Once the whole part is sanded, it needs some coats of filler/primer with subsequently sanding to get a nice surface.

 

QqVpLDu.jpg

 

For the printing material, I would recommend darker colors that have a high contrast after sanding to recognize flawed areas (like the metallic-grey in the picture). White is not recommended.

 

In the meantime, I started to play arround with my new Anycubic Photon printer. I still have to learn a lot about materials and printing settings. Here are some first attempts for the landing gear (wheel part from a Eduard set) and ammo-boxes/belts/chutes. I'm quite pleased with the ammo parts, but I hope the landing gear is strong enough since the whole model will be pretty heavy.

 

4YajFtB.jpg

 

Cheers

Alex

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Thanks guys!

 

The most difficult part was to actually create the 3d-model of the chutes, but now I found a reasonably workable way. On a closer look, they consist of relatively simple segments. The gun itself is not my construction (lent for a free 3d-model i found). The boxes are a bit sparse but most will be seen only from below.

 

MgNbXpH.png

 

qekGX06.jpg

 

3HvI5Uv.jpg

 

 

Edited by AlexM

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