AlexM Posted September 14, 2018 Author Share Posted September 14, 2018 Talking about the interior, apparently many areas were padded with diamond pattern fabric. I think I can do a littel cheating and cover those areas with some (2d) printed drawings patricksparks, Learstang, sandokan and 7 others 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted September 14, 2018 Share Posted September 14, 2018 Cool...................Ive even seen people take and use a diamond pattern print off something hard to "roll" or imprint the pattern onto a piece of foil or other. This seems like a lot easier manor of accomplishing that padded pattern. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thammond65 Posted September 14, 2018 Share Posted September 14, 2018 2 hours ago, AlexM said: Thank you all for your encouraging words Not at all, very interesting discussion. Talking about the Marauder, since threre are some news about the Resin2Detail kit, I'm very motivated to get this one finished. Sooner or later, I'll have to make a decision about the interior colors. From what I have read so far, I don't think that everyting was interior green over all (like in the museeum machine). The facts seem to be a bit unclear about the Marauder. I'm thinking about doing everything behind the cockpit/radio operater section in aluminium (like I've already done with the bomb bays). For the forward fuselage starting at the radio operator section, I think about olive drab. Do you have any clues what might be accurate Alex Hi Alex, great work. I am absolutely no expert on colours, but this thread has some good photos of Flak Bait, including the areas behind the cockpit: https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/hyperscale/flak-bait-photos-t152805.html This page has a nice photo too, which shows the variety of colours used: https://airandspace.si.edu/stories/editorial/where-flak-bait Hope those help. AlexM 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexM Posted September 14, 2018 Author Share Posted September 14, 2018 29 minutes ago, thammond65 said: Hi Alex, great work. I am absolutely no expert on colours, but this thread has some good photos of Flak Bait, including the areas behind the cockpit: https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/hyperscale/flak-bait-photos-t152805.html This page has a nice photo too, which shows the variety of colours used: https://airandspace.si.edu/stories/editorial/where-flak-bait Hope those help. Oh, this is great - and confusing. I see aluminium, with some blue anti-corrosion coat , black, interior green, and some ... maybe olive drab. This can only go wrong Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeanutGallery Posted September 16, 2018 Share Posted September 16, 2018 (edited) On 9/14/2018 at 6:12 AM, AlexM said: The facts seem to be a bit unclear about the Marauder. I'm thinking about doing everything behind the cockpit/radio operater section in aluminium (like I've already done with the bomb bays). For the forward fuselage starting at the radio operator section, I think about olive drab. Do you have any clues what might be accurate Alex Alex, I think you wouldn't be far off by following what is seen in Flak Bait. Pat Rodgers, owner of Aircraft Restoration Services in Murrieta, California is restoring B-26MA 40-1370, which I've visited. Pat actually bought two airframes (40-1381) but is using 1381 for parts and patterns. These were unfortunately chopped up into sections by scrappers but saved in the early 2000s from its original 1942 crash location at King Salmon, Alaska. I've discussed with Pat the topic of interior paint. What he found was an original unpainted tail section, bomb bay and radio room interior. The cockpit was painted but I don't know what color. This is an early version of the Marauder with short wings, but Flak Bait interior finishes look very similar to what he found while restoring his Marauder. What the NMUSAF did by painting its B-26G interior with chromate green was far off the mark. Its a mystery to me why they did that. Pat has unfortunately decided to sell the project, but you can see the Marauder here. http://www.platinumfighters.com/b26 By the way, I think your design process for printing the parts is excellent. Designing the fuselage for printing with a .5mm "gap" for the saw cut is really clever. I'm an architect in the U.S., and many professional offices use SketchUp for its ease and speed. I know its used by architects worldwide. I didn't know it could be used as you have, and I came away impressed by your clever use of the software. I think for many years SketchUp was somewhat limited in the kinds of surfaces it could create, but that has changed for the better in the last few years. I just hate the "stickiness" but using layers gets around that. I appreciate you sharing your process using Sketchup with us. Since you printed your fuselage generally along the original's manufacturing break points, this could give you an opportunity to create the short wing version as well. The center section and nose were the same for all models (with modest differences) whereas the tail section, vertical stabilizer and wings/nacelles were enlarged starting at the B-26B-10 production. One question: how much sanding is required to smooth the printed surface of the wings and fuselage to the level we see in your photos? I think the photos you've posted is after you've processed it by sanding and using spray filler, unless I'm mistaken. I'm curious about the output of your printer and how much prep you need to do after printing. Edited September 16, 2018 by PeanutGallery sandokan and AlexM 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ray Posted September 16, 2018 Share Posted September 16, 2018 Quilted fabric looks good! AlexM and alaninaustria 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexM Posted October 6, 2018 Author Share Posted October 6, 2018 On 9/16/2018 at 2:20 AM, PeanutGallery said: One question: how much sanding is required to smooth the printed surface of the wings and fuselage to the level we see in your photos? I think the photos you've posted is after you've processed it by sanding and using spray filler, unless I'm mistaken. I'm curious about the output of your printer and how much prep you need to do after printing. Hi, thanks for your input concering the interior colors. Here is a picture of a fuselage part in bright light. The parts definitely need sanding and filler. Along the two bright areas, you can can see the result of some sanding. It stil looks rough under bright light, but already feels quite smooth after a bit sanding. There are some deeper areas that are hard to get rid of. Once the whole part is sanded, it needs some coats of filler/primer with subsequently sanding to get a nice surface. For the printing material, I would recommend darker colors that have a high contrast after sanding to recognize flawed areas (like the metallic-grey in the picture). White is not recommended. In the meantime, I started to play arround with my new Anycubic Photon printer. I still have to learn a lot about materials and printing settings. Here are some first attempts for the landing gear (wheel part from a Eduard set) and ammo-boxes/belts/chutes. I'm quite pleased with the ammo parts, but I hope the landing gear is strong enough since the whole model will be pretty heavy. Cheers Alex PeanutGallery, sandokan, rafju and 8 others 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monthebiff Posted October 6, 2018 Share Posted October 6, 2018 Wow Alex, amazing work and those ammo boxes are superb. Keep up the great work. Regards. Andy AlexM 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarkis Posted October 6, 2018 Share Posted October 6, 2018 Hi Alex - good stuff there with the 3D printed parts....please take a close-up of the detail on the ammo feed....Stuff looks good from normal viewing range! AlexM 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexM Posted October 6, 2018 Author Share Posted October 6, 2018 (edited) Thanks guys! The most difficult part was to actually create the 3d-model of the chutes, but now I found a reasonably workable way. On a closer look, they consist of relatively simple segments. The gun itself is not my construction (lent for a free 3d-model i found). The boxes are a bit sparse but most will be seen only from below. Edited October 6, 2018 by AlexM LSP_Kevin, NukerDan, LSP_Paul and 5 others 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarkis Posted October 6, 2018 Share Posted October 6, 2018 WOW! I think we have reached the cost - benefit threshold and now can we can all get a high rez machine for a reasonable price! Keep pushing the envelope! AlexM 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Learstang Posted October 6, 2018 Share Posted October 6, 2018 Great job on those ammo belts! Regards, Jason AlexM 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Molitor Posted October 7, 2018 Share Posted October 7, 2018 Another superb update Alex. Thank you for sharing this epic Maruder build with us! Troy. AlexM 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaninaustria Posted October 7, 2018 Share Posted October 7, 2018 This is just outstanding!! I really hope in a few short years that we will see 3D printing at high resolution become a standard in the industry! The human imagination becomes the only limiting factor!! Cheers Alan AlexM, Learstang and Troy Molitor 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexM Posted October 7, 2018 Author Share Posted October 7, 2018 What is really stunning for me is that I bought this printer for just 400 €,. That's a steal clarkis and Learstang 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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