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Everything posted by AlexM

  1. Hi Francis, check out this thread about 3d printing: https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/70571-3d-printing/ Cheers Alex
  2. Do-17 for me, please. I find the He-177 has a rather unattractive appearance. I also have the fear that the thing could suddenly go up in flames, and I am not particularly keen on an apartment fire. Probably wouldn't stop me from buying it, though
  3. Hi Chris, Leighton wrote me that he will ask a colleague who has direkt access to Flak Bait abot my color list, or wheather he can get access himself. I'm curious about the response, but I guess that at the moment they have more important matters to take care of. I'm already aware of the Marauder at the USAF National Museum. It's very helpfull for the 360degree interior views. To bad that the interiour colors apparently aren't accurate. Things would be much easier today if they had simply used green back then Cheers Alex
  4. Very interesting! There will be some heavy surgery, but I can understand that after all the work so far, you really want to get it right Cheers Alex
  5. That's just unreal how real your model looks. Mindblowing Alex
  6. Hi Chris, that would probably be asking too much of me. But if you happen to be back there, some more photos/information concerning the interior colors would be awesome. Especially concerning the forward bombardier section, as well as the very end section where the rear turret is mounted. Currently, my painting plan is as follows: Floor of the cockpit and navigator section (just behind the cockpit): black/dark grey sidewalls of the cockpit and navigator section: something brownish-greenish, maybe olive drab (seems to be some kind of fabric cover) rest of the rear fuselage: aluminium (bomb bay might also be grey, but I'll leave it in aluminium, since that section will be hardly visible anyway) very end fuselage section behind the rear gunner, where the guns are mounted: some kind of green (maybe olive drab - for anti-glare reasons ) forward bombardier section: sidewalls seem to have the same brown-green fabric cover like the cockpit/navigator sections; very forward frame where the clear nose is mounted seems to be aluminium bulkheads: generally aluminium, but the forward bulkhead between the bombardier and cockpit section seems to be painted in - maybe - bronze green dorsal Martin 250CE turret: black/dark grey; though on the photos of the faded Flak Bait turret, the armour shields apparently are in some kind of green (maybe again olive drab ) The color topic remains exciting, so any additional information is higly welcomed. Cheers Alex
  7. AlexM


    Very nice! Reminds me of the old PC game Stalker: Shadow of Chernobyl Cheers Alex
  8. Very nice Even though it's in plain sight, I'm still not entierly sure how to interprete some interior colors, especially at the bombardier section. I thought to do most in aluminium, but apparently it was at least partially painted in ... well ... maybe bronze green? Or grey? https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6j910hu3y308ged/AAAYV1_LjHDPlPwNlbNck8Mea/DSC_0624.jpg?dl=0
  9. I once thought about metal 3d printing, and uploaded the file on www.3dhubs.com. Two pieces would cost 212 € in stainless steel. Aluminium would be a bargain for only 180 € Since my current landing gear stayed stable so far, and shows no signs of material fatigue, I'll continue with them. In the worst case, I can still switch to stronger alternative.
  10. Thanks guys, very encouraging! I take that as a compliment
  11. Thanks, Jason! I regarded a 2mm hard spring steel rod as necassary. But I was in no way able to bend one single rod tight and precise enough at the three 90 degree corners. Now thinking about it, I guess a combination of steel tubing with 2mm inner diameter as connector, 2mm spring steel rod sections for the straight areas, and some more easily bendable 2mm rods (brass?) for the corners, all jacketed with printed resin halves, could work and would be much stronger than my recent effort. Let's see, maybe I'll give this a try. Until now, the model stands stable on its legs.. Cheers Alex
  12. Thanks, Mark! I know what you mean. I printed the parts with a resin that is advertised to be very strong. After all parts were glued together, I put some more liquid resin at the seams and put it under UV light to cure. Now, It's more or less one single resin part with steel-rods within. I'll watch it for some time and hope that is stays stable, especially at the weak point you mentioned. One nice thing is that the balance can now be checked to prevent tail sitting. Until now, the necessary counterweight at the area forward of the main landing gear has only been roughly calculated. Now, with most weight-relevant parts provisionally attached, it already stands like it should. And the resin engines and the forward landing gear isn't attached yet, so I think at least regarding that aspect I'm safe. The weight on the nose landing gear will be minimal, so a fully printed nose gear without metal-rod-enforcement should be fully sufficient. Cheers Alex
  13. Interesting project That's my philosophy too
  14. Thanks guys! I think you are right, if everything else fails, a metal landing gear would be a reasonable investition. Meanwhile, I provisionally pluged the steel-rod-enforced legs and the small support struts into the the designated openings in the wheel wells for a first test. And right now, it looks promising. Not bending visible I'll leave it like this for a while to see if it stays stable. Cheers ALex
  15. Hello there, again little progress. One thing that causes headache is the main landing gear, which is angeled forward in a scary way, while the whole model is rather heavy, not least because of the counterweights to prevent the notorious tail-sitting. The green one, which is printed as one single part, is in no way strong enough, will bend and propably breake. I'm thinking about metal casting by a goldsmith, but I guess this wouldn't be cheap. So right now, I'll try a multi-piece landing gear with 2mm steel rod enforcement. The upper part of the fork now consists of two halves which cover a bent steel rod. There are still weak spots, but maybe it works. Whish me luck Cheers Alex
  16. Allright, I couldn't resist and placed an order for the standard edition, together with a Gladiator
  17. Fantastic, this will be a must-have once it's avaiable for purchase
  18. Little Marauder update: Over the weekend, I made some more clear vacuformed parts for the nose, turret and tail. The nose must be redone as I wasn't careful enough when romoving from the mould, so what you see is just for a quick demonstration: It all still need some clean-up, but overall the plan seems to work out. I enlarged the opening in the fuselage for the turret since I have the impression the turret is too small on the plan from the Warpaint book. Somewhere I read that the turret diameter is 41 inch. Talking about the turret, the obvious question arises: what color for the turret? On some pictures they are some kind of interior green: https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4908/44189918460_86a363267c.jpg That's the turret from Flak Bait: https://thumbs-media.smithsonianmag.com/filer/86/6f/866f22ba-be2d-49fa-b846-9b78c6983c8a/4.jpg__1072x0_q85_upscale.jpg Here, the turret seems to be metal/aluminium: https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5099/5521447033_6b3d731ef3_b.jpg Here not: https://i.ytimg.com/vi/HG_DQC1deB0/maxresdefault.jpg Here on the production line, they are black/dark grey: http://320thbg.org/martin_marauder/domes_destruction.jpg At the moment, I tend to black/dark grey for my model, but any additional information would be welcome. Cheers Alex.
  19. Thanks all. The diagram is from this book, which also contains own information about the size of the earlier type1 and 2 insignias. I have just drawn the insignia in the 3d-software, and placed it over the wing. I wasn't aware until now that the bars aren't totally in the middle but slightly higher to be in line with the horricontal lines of the white star. Learned something new It seems that the numbers mentioned in the book don't describe the radius, but rather the diameter, as otherwise the insignias would be way to big (including the bars about 14cm wide in 1/32...). For comparison, I made a "44in" and "40in" version refering to the diameter of the white star (or propably more correctly said: 22in and 20in refering to the radius). When looking at photos of the real aircraft, I somehow find the bigger version more appropriate:
  20. On the fuselage diagram in the book, the size of the insignia is described as 33in/30in
  21. Allright, thanks. Once the radius is given, the rest is just a matter of math. Maybe I don't get it but I still wonder how to interprete the size indications in the picture (44in/40in). Is the radius in the picture 44in or 40 in? Or do the numbers refer to something else?. If the 40in stand for the star-radius, the radius of the outer circle should be 45in (9/8th of 40in)
  22. Hi there, having received my Silhouette Portrait 2 cutter yesterday, I can now make paint masks for my projects. For the Marauder, I have a question about the size of the US insignias, which I hope the experts out there can easiyl answer. I am aware that the bars and the circle are in a certain proportion to each other. However, in my reference book, two sizes are given for the markings.If the insignia size is for example described as 44in/40in like on the picture below, how large is the insignia then? Do the two sizes refer to the diameter of the outer blue circle respectively the inner white star? Cheers Alex
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