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Everything posted by AlexM

  1. All right, this is insane. I like it. If there is too much shrinkage, you can try to enlage the sections by about 2-3 cm at the end where the print starts, with a small recessed line all around between the actual part and the added "waste section". The shrinkage will occure at the waste ares, which, after printing, can be cut away along the recessed line.
  2. Clear parts are still a hard thing to tackle. There are clear resins available for 3d printing, but my experience so far is that they very soon turn yellow, when exposed to UV light (which is necassary to cure/harden the parts after printing). And then, the 3d model has to be pretty perfect regarding shape and whall thicknes. So for me, this is currently not possible. My approach so far in my projects (from which none of them are finished yet ) is printing a mould/plug, which is slightly smaller the the final clear part, get it as smoth and shiny as possible, and then make clear parts the
  3. Hey, thanks guys. I don't want to make money with this. Once the 3d model is finished, I'll propably make them downloadable for everyone interested.
  4. In my eyes, surface detail of the Hobby Boss kit is pretty nice. The large parts also fit together pretty well. But shapewise, it's flawed. The biggest problem for me is the fuselage cross-section, especially at the canopy area, where it's very obvious. Therefore I started to think about a solution, using 3d printing, which ended up in a littel act of surgery. Here is the current status: Cheers Alex
  5. Hi there, nothing really new to write about. But I made a new purchase that will be very helpfull. There are actuelly 1/32 Maurauder decals out there, even though there is no kit. The decals are part of this nice book: I ran across this when looking for reference about the A-26 Invader. However, only about 10 pages cover the invaders. The rest is all about the Marauder, with many photos, and some nice profiles. At the beginning of this project, I wanted to make this as a NMF aircraft with olive drab upper side and invasion stripes, as I find this schem
  6. No hits taken It's really a pitty, as at first, I was impressed how well the two main fuselage parts fit together. I also like the surface details. But the fuselage shape is a no-go for me. Once I start to tackle this kit, I'll see if there is any reasonable solution. I guess this won't go without some major surgery. Maybe In the end I'll drawi and 3d-print a whole new fuselage section. But at the moment it is rather likely the box will be but to the stash and stays there for quite some time.
  7. Thanks for posting this drawing. My kit finally arrived, and after some inspection, it seems to be way more challenging than I thought. To say that the wrong engines are disapponting is an understatement. But I was aware of this when I placed my order, and at least, they can be replaced. The fuselage cross-sections are way more problematic in my eyes. Looking at the forward cross-section between the nose and the main fuselage-part, there is a bit of discrepance when comparing with the drawing. Being a tolerant and forgiving man, I would be inclined to say that it is close enough, if there
  8. Hi Lietsalmi, thanks for your post That sounds much better than I feared. I'm still waiting for my kit to arrive. What's your opinion about the shape of the canopy/fuselage sides? When looking at the pictures I found on the internet, I have the feeling that the side is too curved where it should be rather flat. At least that's what i believe, but in fact I dont't know that much about the real aircraft, so I could be wrong there. Alex
  9. Hi Francis, check out this thread about 3d printing: https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/70571-3d-printing/ Cheers Alex
  10. Do-17 for me, please. I find the He-177 has a rather unattractive appearance. I also have the fear that the thing could suddenly go up in flames, and I am not particularly keen on an apartment fire. Probably wouldn't stop me from buying it, though
  11. Hi Chris, Leighton wrote me that he will ask a colleague who has direkt access to Flak Bait abot my color list, or wheather he can get access himself. I'm curious about the response, but I guess that at the moment they have more important matters to take care of. I'm already aware of the Marauder at the USAF National Museum. It's very helpfull for the 360degree interior views. To bad that the interiour colors apparently aren't accurate. Things would be much easier today if they had simply used green back then Cheers Alex
  12. Very interesting! There will be some heavy surgery, but I can understand that after all the work so far, you really want to get it right Cheers Alex
  13. That's just unreal how real your model looks. Mindblowing Alex
  14. Hi Chris, that would probably be asking too much of me. But if you happen to be back there, some more photos/information concerning the interior colors would be awesome. Especially concerning the forward bombardier section, as well as the very end section where the rear turret is mounted. Currently, my painting plan is as follows: Floor of the cockpit and navigator section (just behind the cockpit): black/dark grey sidewalls of the cockpit and navigator section: something brownish-greenish, maybe olive drab (seems to be some kind of fabric cover) rest of the rea
  15. Very nice! Reminds me of the old PC game Stalker: Shadow of Chernobyl Cheers Alex
  16. Very nice Even though it's in plain sight, I'm still not entierly sure how to interprete some interior colors, especially at the bombardier section. I thought to do most in aluminium, but apparently it was at least partially painted in ... well ... maybe bronze green? Or grey? https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6j910hu3y308ged/AAAYV1_LjHDPlPwNlbNck8Mea/DSC_0624.jpg?dl=0
  17. I once thought about metal 3d printing, and uploaded the file on www.3dhubs.com. Two pieces would cost 212 € in stainless steel. Aluminium would be a bargain for only 180 € Since my current landing gear stayed stable so far, and shows no signs of material fatigue, I'll continue with them. In the worst case, I can still switch to stronger alternative.
  18. Thanks guys, very encouraging! I take that as a compliment
  19. Thanks, Jason! I regarded a 2mm hard spring steel rod as necassary. But I was in no way able to bend one single rod tight and precise enough at the three 90 degree corners. Now thinking about it, I guess a combination of steel tubing with 2mm inner diameter as connector, 2mm spring steel rod sections for the straight areas, and some more easily bendable 2mm rods (brass?) for the corners, all jacketed with printed resin halves, could work and would be much stronger than my recent effort. Let's see, maybe I'll give this a try. Until now, the mod
  20. Thanks, Mark! I know what you mean. I printed the parts with a resin that is advertised to be very strong. After all parts were glued together, I put some more liquid resin at the seams and put it under UV light to cure. Now, It's more or less one single resin part with steel-rods within. I'll watch it for some time and hope that is stays stable, especially at the weak point you mentioned. One nice thing is that the balance can now be checked to prevent tail sitting. Until now, the necessary counterweight at the area forward of the main landing gear has only been rou
  21. Interesting project That's my philosophy too
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