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Revell P-51D - Great, or merely Good, or ??


CANicoll

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You have considerably more control over fit when assembling the cockpit separately. Cleaning the leftover sprue tabs and removing flash combined with dry-fitting represent the best solution. 

Radu 

For my example, I was super careful getting all the flash & tabs cleared off, including cleaning the back sides of the sidewalls which I found quite rough. But I still found the parts were forcing the fuselage apart particularly aft of the seat. With my approach, I found the fit that worked best for me. Of course, individual results are going to vary. It could just be me! But the good news is once my shop warms up to something higher than 40 deg. F, I'll be able to get some paint laid down on this beauty. So far I'm still really pleased with this kit, wavy canopy and all. I think I can resolve that with my Micromesh kit.

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 But I still found the parts were forcing the fuselage apart particularly aft of the seat. With my approach, I found the fit that worked best for me. 

 

That sounds like what I was referring to when I mentioned the "step" in front of the fuel tank. There tends to be some flash there. If the flash is not removed in that spot, on both the floor and cockpit side walls, that makes the cockpit wider and that in turn will push the fuselage sidewalls out.

On my examples, there is also some flash around the ejector pin marks and rough finishing on the outside faces of the cockpit parts. Unless that flash is cleaned, it will also push the fuselage sidewalls out.

Radu 

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I also had a look at the leading edge part. I found that it is easier to align parts if the leading edge part is carefully sawn into two parts along the panel line on the underside, separating it into an angled wing root part and a part with the gun ports. The separated parts make the alignment easier. There is no need for aftermarket there. 

Radu 

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I personally have the kit, as well as some vac kits. Its not anything remotely like a vac kit. Is it perfect? Also not true, but its far FAR from vac detail. The panel lines are lighter and shallower in some spots but its worth every penny of $25.00. As far as surface detail goes, Id say a few min spent with a scriber or needle in a pin vice and its taken care of, as I cant see any examples on my copy that have no surface detail or detail so light you cant just scribe right over whats there. 

 

Same thing for me. I unpacked one of my kits yesterday, and it looks pretty good. Indeed the panel lines may become a bit soft in some areas, but nothing very bad. Actually, the areas where they become soft usually need a bit of sanding, so they will be rescribed, at least i will do rescribe them, so i just dont care them being soft.

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I was thinking about these issues with the windscreen fit. I see some people have that problem, some people don't. I assembled six of these kits and I can only think of one culprit that can cause this problem. I think that the problem is caused by the cockpit section "spreading" the fuselage.  Any flash on the parts can cause this. Make sure that you clean all the flash in the points of contact between the sidewalls and floor, especially the area where the step is at the front of the fuel tank. Make sure you remove ALL remnants of the sprue attachments on the sides of the floor. If there is any flash or bump in any of those places where the parts meet, that prevents the sidewalls from meeting the floor correctly and as a result the assembled cockpit unit may end up a tad too wide. Then, after the whole cockpit unit is assembled, inspect the outside surfaces. If there is any flash, residue around the ejector pin marks, any surface "bump and lump" protruding on the sides of the cockpit, sand it smooth. In fact, I think that it will do no harm to sand the outside faces of the cockpit anyway, just to make them as smooth as possible - that will make sure that the cockpit section meets the fuselage snugly. It will only take a tiny amount of flash to push the fuselage sideways and that will have a ripple effect that will affect the windscreen and the wing fit. 

HTH 

Radu 

 

It would make sense to dry fit the windscreen with and without the cockpit inside the fuselage before gluing anything, to check if it changes anything.

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Gents I would like to know why Eduard is offering an replacement prop, Is the Revell one inaccurate or is it a marketing driven product to suggest the original prop is worse and need to be replaced. But on the other hand, now a prop is awailable for the "other" P-51 from HAS - TRU - DRA and I know there is or will be scaling issues. Regards

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I also had a look at the leading edge part. I found that it is easier to align parts if the leading edge part is carefully sawn into two parts along the panel line on the underside, separating it into an angled wing root part and a part with the gun ports. The separated parts make the alignment easier. There is no need for aftermarket there. 

Radu

 

Radu,

 

When you designed the kit did you do the CAD for it or more the research to hand over to the Designers at Revell??

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Gents I would like to know why Eduard is offering an replacement prop, Is the Revell one inaccurate or is it a marketing driven product to suggest the original prop is worse and need to be replaced. But on the other hand, now a prop is awailable for the "other" P-51 from HAS - TRU - DRA and I know there is or will be scaling issues. Regards

The Revell prop blades kink slightly forward at the outboard end of the cuffs:

Fo2ypEs.jpg

 

Whether or not it's worthy of replacement is up to the individual. 

 

HTH,

D

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