Gazzas Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 John, Those masked markings look very nice! I've given up on decals for the hollow crosses because of silvering. I can pick and stab to get rid of bubbles, but I really hate doing it. I've noticed that you haven't added any of the protruding parts like aerials and horn balances. My problem is that if I add those parts after painting they don't stick very well. Whereas if I add them before paint and finishing, I invariably knock off one or more. Do you have a technique, or a cement that you use for these final bits and pieces? Thanks, Gaz Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kahunaminor Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 (edited) Great work John, I am using Montex masks for the first time on my 1/48 A6M2-N Rufe. It is a learning curve but I really like them and as far as masking for overspray, I use an almost identical method: Almost no different, right? I still have a long way to go methinks. Regards, Edited December 30, 2017 by Kahunaminor sandokan, LSP_Kevin and Thunnus 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted December 31, 2017 Author Share Posted December 31, 2017 John, Those masked markings look very nice! I've given up on decals for the hollow crosses because of silvering. I can pick and stab to get rid of bubbles, but I really hate doing it. I've noticed that you haven't added any of the protruding parts like aerials and horn balances. My problem is that if I add those parts after painting they don't stick very well. Whereas if I add them before paint and finishing, I invariably knock off one or more. Do you have a technique, or a cement that you use for these final bits and pieces? Thanks, Gaz Thanks Gaz! If you don't like silvering and the other things that can go wrong with decals, the masks are the way to go. I avoid decals whenever I can because I hate those silvering and bubbles too. I add the small things like the antennas, pitot, balances, etc. after all of the painting and weathering is done. I will DEFINITELY knock stuff off if given half the chance. Since those things are very small, I don't find an issue attaching them at the end with CA glue or sometimes Tamiya Extra Thin if I can get away with it. Great work John, I am using Montex masks for the first time on my 1/48 A6M2-N Rufe. It is a learning curve but I really like them and as far as masking for overspray, I use an almost identical method: Almost no different, right? I still have a long way to go methinks. Regards, Yeah, just about the same. I prefer to limit my masking to one or two masks at the most but what you're doing should work fine! Reds can be a tough color to spray so I like to put a white base coat under my reds. mozart and Kahunaminor 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted December 31, 2017 Author Share Posted December 31, 2017 (edited) A question... Does anyone know anything about the W.Nr. of Hartmann's G-10? The Revell kit lists it as 491446 and provides decals for this number. Has this been verified? Edited April 17, 2018 by Thunnus Paul in Napier and sandokan 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted January 1, 2018 Author Share Posted January 1, 2018 (edited) Decaling is finished. The kit decals are very good. Accurate, thin and reacts favorably to decal solution (Solvaset worked better than Microsol). The only thing I didn't like about the kit decals are the flat finish... I prefer satin or gloss. The decals are sealed with a clear gloss in preparation for the next step: WEATHERING! Edited April 17, 2018 by Thunnus Paul in Napier, daHeld, Granger Davis and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted January 1, 2018 Share Posted January 1, 2018 This is really coming together nicely, John! Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel460 Posted January 1, 2018 Share Posted January 1, 2018 She's a beauty John. Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzas Posted January 1, 2018 Share Posted January 1, 2018 Definitely a looker! Gaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgbgtv8steve Posted January 1, 2018 Share Posted January 1, 2018 Great build! I'm really enjoying your skill set! Steve S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted January 1, 2018 Share Posted January 1, 2018 Wow, REALLY lovely work here John. Its a really beautiful looking model! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Micke D Posted January 1, 2018 Share Posted January 1, 2018 From what I know the W.Nr. is NOT confirmed, so I don't know where they found that info... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted January 1, 2018 Author Share Posted January 1, 2018 (edited) Thanks so much for the comments! The W. Nr. will be speculative then. The gloss coat has sealed the camo, markings and decals so we are ready for weathering. The first step is to give the model a wash. A misnomer if there ever was one since the objective is to dirty up the plane, not clean it! The wash also serves another important purpose in my eyes. I want remove the 3D aspects of the panel lines and rivets. In other words, I want to convert the physical grooves and holes on the model into lines and dots or at least fool the eye into thinking it is seeing lines and dots, which is what the panel wash will do. I believe this "flattening" effects helps to unify the model's surface into a more substantial object. I make my own liquid washes from pastel chalk, water and a drop of dishwashing soap. Being water-based, this wash is very safe on most finishes and can be wiped off completely if necessary, even from a flat coat. Here is the bottom of the wing, before the wash is applied. The wash is applied by brush into all of the rivet lines, panel lines and any other raised or recessed detail. Let this dry completely. If you get impatient and start wiping before the wash completely dries, you'll be removing the wash from the areas where you want it to stay. You can tell the wash is dry as it develops a totally flat finish. Using a lightly damped piece of paper towel, I wipe the wash off the model, leaving the dried liquid in all of the nooks and crannies. Initially, I try to keep my strokes perpendicular to any panel lines but the finishing strokes should be in the same direction as the air flow. I like to work in areas as it is easy to lose track of the wash applications. The last thing you want is to spray your final clear coat onto an area that you forgot to wipe. I use a lighter color wash to treat the black tulip area on the nose. Make sure you inspect the model carefully during this process for stray fingerprints, unrealistic streaks and any areas that may have been missed. If you are using a paper towel like me, make sure you wipe or brush the model off since paper towels can leave fibers behind. The wash effect will vary on the contrast between the wash color and the surrounding color. On the lighter RLM 76 surfaces, I used a dark brown wash but I'll use a bit darker wash with more black on the darker RLM 75/83. Edited April 17, 2018 by Thunnus r0t0rdr1ver, LSP_Kevin, sandokan and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted January 1, 2018 Author Share Posted January 1, 2018 (edited) The pastel wash is wrapped up. After the model is wiped with a clean cloth, it is given a flat coat. First the bottom... After the bottom dries, I'll do the top. Edited April 17, 2018 by Thunnus Greg W, XOPCT, Hartmann52 and 7 others 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted January 1, 2018 Author Share Posted January 1, 2018 (edited) The flat coat has been applied to the top. For this build, I've used Model Master Flat Clear Lacquer. The weathering will continue with some post-shading and maybe some other fun stuff. Edited April 17, 2018 by Thunnus Gazzas, VintageEagle, Trak-Tor and 16 others 19 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted January 1, 2018 Share Posted January 1, 2018 Beautifully subtle wash, John! Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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