bdthoresen

Nice work. Brings me back to my five year 202 saga from PCM. Been hunting a 205 and a g.55, but no joy. I want to see what I can do with them now. Keep up the great work. 
 
Thor    

Yes, I agree with Mr. Maben- I would use a fine brush and fill the blemish with a couple of applications of Mr. Surfacer 500, to build it up. Then perhaps use a small piece of fine sanding sponge to blend it out. Looks great otherwise!
 
THOR    

That’s super cool, D. Here in St. Augustine, there was a gentleman who owned a Boomerang replica, which was a cut and spliced T-6G. The thing looked pretty close to an actual Boomey, and was a real hot-rod. He sold it on a few years back…..
 
Really looking forward to what you do with this!
 
Thor    

Yeah, pretty much hard rock/metal most of the time. Bands like The Ghost Inside, Soilwork, In Flames, Gojira, Orden Ogan, Jinjer, Trivium, Light the Torch, Gizmachi, Wage War, Architects, Lamb of God, and Bring Me the Horizon. 
 
Sometimes I will stream 40’s big band to change it up. Been on a Count Basie and Artie Shaw kick lately……
 
THOR    

Lovely work so far. I am enjoying this thread.
 
I am curious, though why you used the mask for the rudder fabric on the vertical tail to apply primer? 
 
Keep the updates coming.
 
THOR    

CG-
 
I would bond the horizontal stabs before paint, that way you have as strong a bond as possible with them. As far as painting order, I would give the model a white base coat, almost as a primer, and then mask the white portions of the invasion stripes. Then I would spray the red areas, then mask. Then I would spray the black areas of the invasion stripes, then mask. Then aluminum areas, mask. Underside camo, mask. Then topside camo. Demask everything.
 
As far as your flat drop tank, you could go aluminum, or even neutral gray. They were usually only used once, maybe twice if they came home with it, so who could say if you are wrong? Not likely the used the same tank for long.
 
FWIW-
 
THOR    

Foz-
 
This is just plain ridiculous. It just keeps getting better and better! I love the “old school” way you build. Plain awesome.
 
THOR     

I can only echo what some of the others have said here, Chuck. I tend to use Mr. Surfacer 1000 cut 50/50 with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner, sprayed at about 18-20 psi. It lays down nicely, and wet sands beautiful with 600 grit paper. It can be polished further than that if necessary. I used to be dead set against primers, but after using this on a few multimedia projects, I am sold! I tend to use the grey, and the black myself……
 
Awesome work, by the way. Loving this build…..
 
THOR    

Ha! I just busted my a$$ on that exact surface yesterday on the ship I am working on. Quite dirty and grimy up there. The non-skid is a bit worn down though. I think you nailed the color perfectly!
 
THOR    
 
 

Ha! I just busted my a$$ on that exact surface yesterday on the ship I am working on. Quite dirty and grimy up there. The non-skid is a bit worn down though. I think you nailed the color perfectly!
 
THOR    
 
 

Love this thread. My daily driver is a 2018 SR5 Taco and I absolutely love it. Thought about a TRD 4 wheel drive, but have no real need for those capabilities where I live. I have a list a mile long of parts I want to add, but my job, as well as attending university at night/weekends does not put it high on my to-do list. Would love a vintage FJ project, have seen a few for sale round here through the years, but most of them have been beach runners and are rotted out well beyond what I have time to fix. One can dream, though!
 
THOR   

Welcome back, Murph. Whatever happened to that Hasegawa Hellcat you were working on? 
 
Looking forward to what you end up doing with your Intruder. 
 
THOR    

Peter-
 
Cool Project. I also built the old Revell Huey many moons ago, I loved that kit. 
 
On a side note, I know you mentioned trying to find the old Dragon kit, but did you ever look at MRC/Academy’s UH-1D kit in 1/35th? Built one some time ago, saw they rereleased it as late as last year. Better shapes and details than the Revell, nose shape was definitely better. Would also help as your figures are 1/35th!
 
Keep the updates coming, bud!
 
THOR    

CG-
 
DON’T use the SAC gear legs. Their white metal is extremely soft, and tends to bend easily over time. A P-47 I built for someone a few years ago had a set installed, and the had bowed on the shelf within two years under the weight of the model.
 
Furthermore, they were nothing but a direct knock-off of the kit parts anyway, so there is no real gain in detail. I would use the kit struts, Barracuda wheels, and add some brake lines from lead wire. Clean up the scissor links, add some cable clamps for the brake line and you’re away. It will look good under paint. 
 
THOR    

Here ya go Pete, a fairly common Lycoming O-320/360 accessory case. As I mentioned earlier, there were subtle differences based on the dash model/spec of the engine, but these are the most common. From clockwise top left is the oil cooler return line plug-Usually an AN fitting is screwed into here, with the fire sleeved line heading towards the oil cooler. Next is the crankcase breather, usually 3/4” rubber line held on with a hose clamp heading down to the cowling/firewall bottom to vent overboard (If you fill the engine with too much oil, she WILL puke it out of this vent, all over the belly of your freshly washed airplane, from firewall to tail!). You can see the oil temp element attach point at 11 o’clock to the oil filter, which as I said penetrated the firewall to the instrument panel (use guitar string) After the oil filter, you have the attach point for the oil pressure line, which again, will go into the firewall to the instrument panel. At 5 o’clock to the oil filter is the supply line for the oil cooler, which also is fire-sleeved and will connect to the opposite fitting on the oil cooler. Usually, depending on the aircraft, the lines will be secured together from the rear of the engine to the front mounted oil coolers, either running just under the left set of cylinders (There is and orange line in the picture in this location.) If the oil cooler was mounted on the firewall, the lines were much shorter and head to it, usually individually.  (Not tied to each other)
 
Two other things to point out-If you see that silver cap just to the right of the blue breather line fitting, that is you tach generator/cable mount....This also can be simulated with guitar string painted an aluminum color. Lastly, that silver colored blanking plate with the four nuts holding it on, just to the right of the tach location, is the vacuum pump mount. You have a pump mounted in this location already. They usually have two lines off the top- the forward one being mounted off of a 90 degree fitting, black rubber line with a hose clamp, that heads to the instrument panel. The second line, is a small hook shaped metal line that points aft, that acts as a vent for the vacuum pump. 
 
Hope this helps. As I said, the different dash models had slightly different accessory cases at the rear, so it might help to figure out what engine your bird was running to be more specific. But this, as a general rule, is close to what most of these engines look like at the rear.
 
THOR    

Nice work Jay. I do agree with Kev, the bulge looks a bit much. I would reduce its width overall by about 50 percent each side, that way it’s less pronounced. I have always felt that tire bulge in scale doesn’t always translate right. It always seems that the tires are flat. But I would leave the flat spot as is. FWIW....
 
THOR    

Nice work Jay. I do agree with Kev, the bulge looks a bit much. I would reduce its width overall by about 50 percent each side, that way it’s less pronounced. I have always felt that tire bulge in scale doesn’t always translate right. It always seems that the tires are flat. But I would leave the flat spot as is. FWIW....
 
THOR    

Top work as always, Kev. Thanks mate!
 
THOR    

Wow, that looks amazing. Keep it up!
 
THOR    

34.316 inches give or take. Monstrous!
 
THOR    

34.316 inches give or take. Monstrous!
 
THOR    

Here ya go Pete, a fairly common Lycoming O-320/360 accessory case. As I mentioned earlier, there were subtle differences based on the dash model/spec of the engine, but these are the most common. From clockwise top left is the oil cooler return line plug-Usually an AN fitting is screwed into here, with the fire sleeved line heading towards the oil cooler. Next is the crankcase breather, usually 3/4” rubber line held on with a hose clamp heading down to the cowling/firewall bottom to vent overboard (If you fill the engine with too much oil, she WILL puke it out of this vent, all over the belly of your freshly washed airplane, from firewall to tail!). You can see the oil temp element attach point at 11 o’clock to the oil filter, which as I said penetrated the firewall to the instrument panel (use guitar string) After the oil filter, you have the attach point for the oil pressure line, which again, will go into the firewall to the instrument panel. At 5 o’clock to the oil filter is the supply line for the oil cooler, which also is fire-sleeved and will connect to the opposite fitting on the oil cooler. Usually, depending on the aircraft, the lines will be secured together from the rear of the engine to the front mounted oil coolers, either running just under the left set of cylinders (There is and orange line in the picture in this location.) If the oil cooler was mounted on the firewall, the lines were much shorter and head to it, usually individually.  (Not tied to each other)
 
Two other things to point out-If you see that silver cap just to the right of the blue breather line fitting, that is you tach generator/cable mount....This also can be simulated with guitar string painted an aluminum color. Lastly, that silver colored blanking plate with the four nuts holding it on, just to the right of the tach location, is the vacuum pump mount. You have a pump mounted in this location already. They usually have two lines off the top- the forward one being mounted off of a 90 degree fitting, black rubber line with a hose clamp, that heads to the instrument panel. The second line, is a small hook shaped metal line that points aft, that acts as a vent for the vacuum pump. 
 
Hope this helps. As I said, the different dash models had slightly different accessory cases at the rear, so it might help to figure out what engine your bird was running to be more specific. But this, as a general rule, is close to what most of these engines look like at the rear.
 
THOR    

Howdy All-
 
I remember last year that one of the members here (Miroslav?) built a Japanese subject, and was testing MRP’s Japanese colors on his George. Does anyone know if they are still planning on releasing the planned IJN/IJA colors? I searched through some of my normal retailers, and nothing came up. Anyone have any more information?
 
THOR    

Pig-
 
Thank You.
 
THOR     

Pig-
 
Thank You.
 
THOR