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Everything posted by bdthoresen

  1. Ok, so now I regret that I deleted my Facebook account...... THOR
  2. Howdy All- I remember last year that one of the members here (Miroslav?) built a Japanese subject, and was testing MRP’s Japanese colors on his George. Does anyone know if they are still planning on releasing the planned IJN/IJA colors? I searched through some of my normal retailers, and nothing came up. Anyone have any more information? THOR
  3. Jennings- Do you have a sketch to show me what you need? I am an Aircraft Restorer/Mechanic by trade, so I might be able to help. Perhaps a pic of the struts and how you are trying to mount them? THOR
  4. It would appear the FA-200-160 used the Lycoming O-320-D2A motor, 160 horsepower, so accessory case would be almost identical for the period. You should be good to go! THOR
  5. Here ya go Pete, a fairly common Lycoming O-320/360 accessory case. As I mentioned earlier, there were subtle differences based on the dash model/spec of the engine, but these are the most common. From clockwise top left is the oil cooler return line plug-Usually an AN fitting is screwed into here, with the fire sleeved line heading towards the oil cooler. Next is the crankcase breather, usually 3/4” rubber line held on with a hose clamp heading down to the cowling/firewall bottom to vent overboard (If you fill the engine with too much oil, she WILL puke it out of this vent, all over the belly
  6. Hey Pete. Yes, the oil cooler lines run from the back of the accessory case to the oil cooler, send and return. Let me see if I can find a picture of the back of a standard Lycoming 4-banger that will show the connection points. You could also add the crankcase breather from the top rear of the engine, which would be filtered down to exit at the lower firewall.....There were minor differences of course dependent upon dash numbers of engines, but most are really close to the same......be back later. Thor
  7. CG- The brake lines in your last picture appear to be standard -4 sized lines and fittings, which the b-nuts on the lines themselves would be 9/16” diameter, and the elbow would be 1/2” or 7/16” depending on the vendor. Those are still in use today. HTH THOR
  8. Hiya Pete! Nice Lycoming. It looks fairly complete out of the box. I like your ignition wiring. A few things I see you could add fairly easily....you could add the oil temp sense line from the gray unit just above the oil filter, as well as the tachometer drive cable to the other gray unit at about 10 o’clock over the oil filter. Both could be made from wound guitar strings, painted aluminum. You could also add a line from the vacuum pump to the firewall, (the black unit at 2 o’clock above the oil filter. You could also add two small wires from each magneto, one a ground, and one a P-Lead
  9. Adam, you are preaching to the choir there! I don’t miss spraying the single stage urethanes, zinc chromates, and epoxy primers. I still use them in my current job, but super small quantities. I was looking at one of the Hawkeyes I have been working on, from VAW-120, and the thing looks like a leopard from all the paint touch up from corrosion control over its service life. It’s covered in literally hundreds of these marks. The funny thing is, it left us new 7 years ago, a single color, and now she is a dozen shades of gray. Someone has even painted over the exhaust stained paint on the lower
  10. While I find your theory of wetness intriguing, if you look just aft of the cheek fairing, there are spray gun marks following the rivet lines when the mod was installed. They would have had to drill some rivets aft of the position to install it, and you can clearly see they painted over the new bare rivets in a hurried fashion to cover them up. Those are clearly spray gun marks. I have been an aircraft/warbird mechanic, restorer, and painter for the last 27 years, And I have left a few spray gun marks myself, albeit with a color a little closer to the original!!!!! Awesome photos.
  11. That’s the way I’d go, and yes, the brake lines were flexible at the scissor link, and the gear pivot point, turning back into aluminum lines heading towards the cockpit. The photos you show appears the struts are a bit deflated of Nitrogen/5606. Make sure you have a bit more oleo showing than that! Your build is looking great! THOR
  12. That was my thinking as well. It would appear that the pump unit was small, along with the relevant plumbing in the airframe compared to the volume required by the three gear actuators. The sequence appears the same throughout the video, with the left main, then right main, then nose gear retracting in order. Now, I am not certain what kind of pump they were using, whether it was engine driven off the left side, or if it was an electric pump that was actuated by the position of the selector off of the gear handle. But, the actuator closest to the pump would get the fluid first, followed by the
  13. Oliver- Stunning work as usual. Is that Milliput you applied to the boom joint in the photos? Really looking forward to the next update! THOR
  14. CG- DON’T use the SAC gear legs. Their white metal is extremely soft, and tends to bend easily over time. A P-47 I built for someone a few years ago had a set installed, and the had bowed on the shelf within two years under the weight of the model. Furthermore, they were nothing but a direct knock-off of the kit parts anyway, so there is no real gain in detail. I would use the kit struts, Barracuda wheels, and add some brake lines from lead wire. Clean up the scissor links, add some cable clamps for the brake line and you’re away. It will look good under paint.
  15. Chuck- I think the dry brushing looks perfect for the scale. Anymore and I think it might be overdone. The fact it is light dependent is awesome. But I would put a darker metallic wash in all of the recessed fasteners, and that should take it to the next level....but it looks fantastic so far! THOR
  16. No, they had no provisions for external fuel at that phase of their development.....so no worries there....and being that the late 190’s mostly carried their fuel tanks on their centerline, this could not have because of the belly scoop. I also think this airplane was originally converted from an A-5, which did not have the ability to carry the underwing pair of tanks purportedly seen on some of the later types....(F/G?) THOR
  17. Welcome to the Forums! The work thus far looks pretty good to me. I have not had the pleasure of building a Tamiya Corsair as of yet, not too much time for building right now......Covid has unexpectedly made my job busier in many respects. Please keep the updates coming! THOR
  18. I always liked the lines of the C series -190’s....I have wanted to build this conversion for awhile, I just have never been able to source one while I was looking! Looks like fun. Please keep the updates coming! THOR
  19. PEDRO! Pete, looks stupendous. Not much more I can say! THOR
  20. Peter, another fabulous installment. Really looking the business. And congrats on Grand-fatherhood! Grandkids are amazing, I love mine with all I’ve got! Take care- THOR
  21. Hi James- The old tool Hasegawa kit sure is an old chestnut. I had one of those Hi-Grade editions many a moon ago, but never got around to building it. My friend who purchased it did, and he made some minor improvements to it with some “bolt-on” aftermarket parts, and rescribed the wings to match the fuselage. Actually turned out quite nicely in the end. As far as replacement wheel wells, you might have a bit of a hard time adapting the A/F series wheel wells to the Dora. While similar as Thierry mentioned, they were not quite identical. You might squeak by by removing t
  22. Welcome aboard, Cory! I too, have a similar dilemma with a couple of projects in that scale, most notably a 1/18th scale Dora 9 that I have been hacking about for years. I stopped messing with it, mostly because of a lack of markings and stencils. I am in the camp of not being terribly computer savvy, so learning new skills with them is a bit daunting......especially since I have a full time job and attend University. I would say that custom masks would be the way to go in that scale, as most of the major markings could be easily masked and painted. Stencils and complex nose art woul
  23. Phew! I was so nervous to say anything, Chuck, that I think I peed a little.....glad the gear was not harmed in the making of yet another excellent post.....Keep them coming! THOR
  24. John is right, it’s still available. Stay away from Mission Models, they are mostly water-based acrylics, and they don’t react to handling well. I have had excellent luck using Model Master enamels thinned with Gunze’s Mr. Color Leveling Thinner....it flows out beautifully, especially gloss colors. The usual caveat......try it on a scrap piece before committing to your project!!!!!!!! THOR
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