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About branchline

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    Hooked For Life
  • Birthday 11/28/1955

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    Wellington, New Zealand
  • Interests
    Aircraft engineer by profession with both military and civil background. Apart from aircraft modelling, I also model in N scale Santa Fe and 9mm to the foot New Zealand (1 to 33.86) railways too. Regards Brent

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  1. Well I have no idea what prompted me to visit LSP a few days ago but I did. With little time in recent years, particularly so as we've been busy for the last 12 months getting our house here in Wellington ready to sell. It did sell three weeks ago but of course has been caught up in the COVID -19 crisis so is on hold at present - nuff said on that, other than almost all of my kits, modelling tools and modelling "substances" are sitting in storage about 10 minutes from home. However, being in self-isolation lockdown in our homes here in NZ, like folks in many countries around the world, the models etc will remain there until we are through this event and are cleared to move about. The first thread I found after logging on was that on this GB. After a couple of days of thought I decided I'd give it a go while stuck here at home. I'm still doing 40+ hours a week working remotely from home and also finishing off packing so it's not like I'll will have a month of free time to just model. My wife and I appreciate how incredibly fortunate we are to keep our jobs at present by being able to work remotely even if it means our kitchen table currently looks like the back end of a computer server room cabinet covered in laptops, desktop processors, screens, keyboards, cables, mice and other computer paraphernalia strewn across it - and yes we are eating on our laps until I tidy it up! Anyways back the GB, despite a reasonable collection of jet a/c in 1/32 that fit the GB criteria, the only kits I left here at home now are the Red Arrows BAE Hawk, an FGA 9 Hunter and mostly disassembled 1/24 Harrier started 40 something years ago (there is a He162 but that won't count unless I try and squeeze in those flown by the French post WW11 but don't think they would fit within the GB rules). I have only a few tools, some dilapidated decals, hopefully some glue and filler somewhere and my spray gun, compressor and some paints here at home. So I'll try and give one of these a go noting it will be a rudimentary build not having glued plastic for a almost decade now unless it's something to do with model trains, and that the decals might have to wait until we all get through this pandemic so I can order online and know they will be delivered. Finally, keep safe and well out there, and if you are in a country locked down in isolation please stay in what the NZ Govt refers to as your isolation "bubble" ie in your home with your family/friends, and follow the rules and guidelines so we can break the chain of infection. If you are an essential services person, thank you for your dedication, we are in your debt - this from someone who has played in the infectious diseases space for coming up near two decades. Best Regards Brent
  2. Hi There, another thing to consider when traveling by air is think about what you pack. I usually take a small box with a couple of files, a knife with spare blades, a pin vice with drills (specific drills if I know what I need otherwise a selection and some roaches), some emery/sand paper, a 6in metal rule and small pliers and sprue snippers. If working with metal or electrics I'll throw in a soldering iron and solder. Finally, the kit pieces I'm intending to work on of course. The challenge is when travelling through the US and carrying tools. You can almost guarantee to have your bags opened and searched,. It's been every time over the last 10 years for me so far but never had any issues with this. They will take a look and so far everything has been put back where it was. However, I've learnt to put the tool "box" near the top of my bag to minimise disturbance and make it easier for the security folk. Never had any issue in the UK/Europe either but it's been about five years since I traveled there so not sure what the story there is now. Regards Brent
  3. Hi Nick, A favourite subject of mine, looking across hundreds of WWll Spitfire images just now for all MKs of the type, the most common pose with a serviceable aircraft on the ground pending flight is neutral ailerons, drooped elevators and rudder, often offset. Particularly with the BoB aircraft ready on the field for action, the tailwheel is also often offset. There are a few images with the ailerons slightly offset and even less with them markedly offset but overall very few and from an personal aesthetic perspective, having offset ailerons never quite looks right but OTY. Regards Brent H
  4. Hi Ian, Apologies I didn't mean to 'high jack' your thread, of all the threads I have read through over the last week and that would be in the hundreds, this one hit a cord as I have one of these kits in my stash. I also have a couple of Hasegawa G models, a couple of 21st Century Toys editions (a G-14 and F-4) from memory plus a couple of Emils one old and one new hiding somewhere in storage. I'll make the old Revell one at some point soon as a getting back into the hobby model and at the end of the day it does look like a Bf109-G just not something you would put into a competition or look too closely at so if you want a quick build to practice a skill on as has been mentioned, then it has to be a starter despite it's pitfalls. Rgds Brent PS, I'll track down that Buchon article, it did make into a nice model.
  5. Hi Folks, I seem to remember a magazine article several years ago on converting the Revell Bf109 G6 into a Hispano HA.1112 K-1L Buchon using the nose off the Matchbox Mk22/24 Spitfire, accuracy aside I seem to remember it looked the part? It's been a long time away from this site, the drive to come back was a call from one of our sons about the WNW Camel three weeks ago which stirred that dormant sleeping modelling monster inside me. I purchased a Camel on line that night but was disappointed to see the Pup had sold out. The monster was fully woken up last week after driving past a model shop in St Mary's out near Penrith, Sydney while looking for an eatery. The result was a pleasantly full belly and a 1/32 T6 Harvard. Just to really drive it home the next day I walked past Metro Hobbies in downtown Melbourne on the way to a business meeting so on the way back stopped off and purchased a WNW Sopwith Pup plus a 1/144 Airfix Comet 4B (just because). All this got me into visiting here again and finally sorting out my LSP pass word this week. So it's been a busy time catching up on all the glue and solvent sniffing you folk have been doing for the last 18 months and I'm aiming to join you again... Good to be back. Rgds Brent
  6. Great video, thanks for the link, an interesting servicing process and good weathering detail. Rgds Brent
  7. Whoops just saw the age of the post, still a yes though...
  8. I'd be in for one of these so that's a yes from me. Rgds Brent
  9. Hi There, great looking model just ordered one yesterday through local model shop. I noted the comments on rivets. Having spent 40 plus years working on military and civilian aircraft the effect you saw on the Defiant is typical of aircraft, particularly ones in museums, where they washed or hosed down to clean them when they get really dusty. Having washed a considerable number of large and small aircraft over the years, military, civil and historic (not always In museums I might add) the water left in the recess around the rivet head after washing eventually dries off and the dust/dirt in the water/liquid remains trapped in the recess. This is he whitisth ring you see in the images you took. Kero fuel prop or jet/bypass engine aircraft when washed or degreased say prior to a maintenance servicing leave for instance end up with black rings from the kero exhaust. Once the aircraft goes flying rain or atmospheric moisture in combination with slipstream cleans out the dirt. If you look at images of the real Defiant in service (or most aircraft in service), that ring effect around the rivet heads isn't appearent. The image of the fuselage side showing the rivets pulled into the skin is a different kettle of fish however. Looking at the images of the Defiant, this appears to be through the manufacturing process and appears to be exacerbated by stress on the fuselage in older aircraft which in the Defiant's case appears to be quite prominent. I'm sure the framies out there will be able to better explain the exact cause. Again, a great looking model. Rgds Brent
  10. Hi folks, Apologies re lack of progress, I'm the chief poobar for the organising committee of our biennial national model railway convention held over Easter weekend and have had to commit a little bit more time than I'd like to this but was comfortable that with the Jun deadline if things didn't line up before Easter I'd have time to complete the model after that and that's where I'm at presently. I'm unlikely to complete anything this week but with the first weekend since the New Year where we're not hosting people, working or driving up country to pick up or drop off our son's grandpuppy while he and his partner are on holiday then I'll make a special effort to glue something. By the by a grand puppy is what you have when one has no grand kids so our kids pets become grand 'somethings' when you have to look after the being the closet thing one can spoil this of course is according to the boss (read the wife)! Will update later in the week, take care... Regards Brent
  11. Re the dumbed down nature of the kit, I built one of these for my younger brother in the early 70s and I can't remember it having recessed panel lines, I still have the prop off it after it migrated back my way some years later but that doesn't tell me much about the panel lines which on this kit I find very nicely done! As I noted, all the key dimensions and shapes match the Hasegawa Vb almost perfectly and despite it's simple nature it actually looks like a Spitfire should when completed. I have a perverse eye for not so much detail accuracy as the feel of an object's perspective and the Revell kit to me has good overall proportions and a realistic 'sit' which are key starting ticks in the box for me. However, if there is a problem with the overall shape it's the spinner that annoyes me hence why in the images above it has a Hasegawa one fitted. If like me you enjoy getting some plastic sheet and strips out to attempt to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear then this is a good starter! Off topic re the movie Joy, while it's had some odd critiques I liked it. It's about real life so if like many folk if you go to the movies to get away from reality then this is most likely not the one for you - don't get me wrong here I've seen the new Star Wars movie twice and will go again with some friends in a week's time so I enjoy getting away from it too, but having lived in the US in the early 1980s where we were put up some pretty average apartment accommodation in what I'd call less than average suburbs the setting of this movie very much struck a cord with me as I could easily relate to the environment and its characters. Better get on with the gluing here... Rgds Brent
  12. Evening, went and saw the movie Joy so it will only be the rewrite of what I lost last night. The first actual bit of modelling I did was to change the things Revell call wheels on this kit for ones that look like real ones. The image below shows the two Revell kit main undercarriage/landing gear (MLG) struts on the left and compared to a Hasegawa one on the right (which is missing about 3mm off the top after I broke it off my son's MkVb kit while toodling with it). The lefthand Revell strut is out of the box while the righthand one has had the centre spigott removed and the circular disk reduced in diameter to allow it to fit into the recess of the Hasegawa wheels (the ones that look like real wheels with tyres!). I'll add the uplock catch 'ring' and the brakeline but the strut itself will do for this build. Once the wheels were attached to the strut I measured it against a Hasegawa MkVb (trop) built by one of our sons, Tim. I noted it was going to be about 2.5 to 3mm shorter and thought if this looks wrong I'll have to extend the struts. This is the main reason I taped the kit together so I could compare the 'sit' of the Revell kit before I started. As the image below shows it looks okay beside the Hasegawa spitifire even if the Vokes filter housing may distort the visual view. Having spent over 40 years working in aviation there is only one state an aircraft can be in for me and that is serviceable! So my take on this is that it's a fully fueled and armed Spit which has slightly compressed oleos as a result. And while the righthand tyre of the Revell kit looks as if the whole gear is scewed off line, it's just the black overspray is not even on the inside of the tyre (I looked at the the image and had to check the model to make sure though!). That's it for tonight, glue out for the next upload... Rgds Brent
  13. Just lost 20 mins of write up by accidently pushing something I shouldn't have so it's clearly time I hit the pit! more on the morrow and I may get some glue out! Rgds Brent
  14. Back again. As I noted previously, I've haven't been idle, here is a view of the kit pieces taped together with my assembly of other parts I'll use (excluding the Eduard seat belts). I picked up one of my Hasegawa MkVb Spits for $15 (all costs are in $NZ) as a box of spare parts for a conversion I am intending to do on another Spitfire build one day. It had been started rather poorly (take a close look at the seat in the image and you will see a excessive amount of glue) but to my delight there was an Eduard MkVb Interior set and paint masks for roundels and aircraft lettering included, indeed good value! I'll completely disassemble (decontruct?) the cockpit interior shown here and build it into the Rev kit, it fits but requires a little adjustment. I was tempted to use the lower wing to correct the gull shape but enough is enough and it won't be seen where I'll end up putting the model I may however use the radiator and oil cooler from the Hasegawa kit too. I'll also use the Hasegawa exhausts (with some modification) and as seen in the image above, the elevators and rudder. The Revell kit's rudder is pretty much the correct shape but it's just too big.
  15. What made me buy two more of these kits is that overall the outline of the kit parts seem reasonably accurate and once I compared this initial kit with that of one of six Hasegawa Spitfires I have the main Revell kit parts (wing, Fuselage, horizontal stabs etc are all but spot on). Here are a couple of images showing the Revell and Hasegawa kit's fuselages mated together. The only area of difference is the length of the Revell fuselage at the tailplane, the shape is good, but the Revell fuse is maybe 1.5 to 2 mm longer (apologies for the blurry nature of the second one - it was the Christmas Spirit) More yet to come...
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