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themongoose

LSP_Members
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About themongoose

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 08/20/1966

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Cincinnati Ohio USA

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  1. Ohh this is better than I could have hoped for. Lots of combinations here.
  2. Yes, 1/32 scale. I’ll look at the 1/35 too as a short guy in 1/32 is probably a tall guy in 1/35 sounds like you’ve all given me a good start.
  3. So I have it in mind to do a diorama for my next LSP build. Seeing this picture of engine maintenance to me really brings a plane to life on the ground. Could you guys who use figures point me in the right direction to find guys that could be used to create this type of scene? I’ve got the engine for the F-105. This will be mid 60’s era and USAF. Although for the scene it probably doesn’t matter what branch for most of them since uniforms and caps are optional
  4. Hey those decals really brightened up that dull finish as you put it Definitely looks sharp!
  5. Ok lots of just rambling questions here as i think of them lol focusing on the jacket as mentioned the shadows to start with and that seems to really be what sets a figure apart and gives it life. So when painting the jacket you’re not covering it completely right? That’s part of what gives you the shadows? Do you spray right at it, or do you spray at an angle to try and keep from filling the folds? I always seem to end up with a solid color. I starT with a satin black - citadel chaos black. Didn’t know about that parafilm so will have to get some and stop uniformly painting everything black
  6. I’m excited to see your figure and how it’s done. I have lots to learn there.
  7. LOVE the mottling and contrast on your napalm! Drilling them out looks like it was a good idea. You must have shed half the weight?
  8. Hey Raphaël you have a great question there. Last year I did an F/A-18A from Desert Storm era. I found it helpful to search other people’s build threads for advice. I started with a black primer. I used Vallejo sky gray for the cockpit and light gray for the buttons and knobs. Then added color where needed based on cockpit pictures and did some weathering with a dark wash. for the instruments you can try dry brushing them. For me i end up going back and forth between painting and drybrushing, painting and drybrushing. It’s just hard to keep paint off the dial faces and the IP so i go back over it. One thing I’ve learned is the brush has to be really dry. Maybe i can do 1 dial and then i wet the brush again and wipe it off good on a paper towel. let me know if this was what you are looking for. By the way you can see my F/A-18 in the wip link from my signature.
  9. Thanks guys. Love the encouragement as i get into the small details on the home stretch. Spent 8 hours yesterday on the main gear doors and I’m still not done with the Eduard assemblies! Lots of nice detail. I bought a new can of etching primer and soaked everything in vinegar for a day to try and prep the PE for paint. I’ve had bad luck in the past getting paint to stay on PE so I’m really trying to get it right on this model. Got some advice over in the technique forum to help - feel free to toss some of your best practices in here Could see the results of that as early as tonight but most likely tomorrow.
  10. Super day on the Thunderbird once I got the driveway shoveled.1st snow accumulation of the year here. Definitely a mild winter. I finished up the canopy. I followed EricG's technique and used a set of sliding brass tubes to install the canopy. I have to admit I sat for a minute before cutting off the kit attachment points, hoping I could do it right. It turned out pretty good. All the paint and foil on top of this bird is complete. I did have to redo some foil around the letters. It was just too much handling and me not paying attention to how I was holding it, for the small pieces of foil inside letters like 'C' and 'R' and 'A' to not lose some of it. Work on the landing gear has begun. Any build I've looked at where they adjusted the length of the main gear the plug removed was 2 or 3mm. I opted to take out 2.5mm for the sole reason that it was the width of the ejector pin mark right above the oleo area. One less major spot to fill on a curve AND it was just above a ring so no one can tell the leg was separated and then reattached. I did the standard here and rifle drilled the leg, made the cut and realigned it with a brass rod inside. Should be strong enough now as long as the rod for the wheel holds up. And that's it for tonight. Hopefully another big day tomorrow. I'd love to finish this week and take it to Blizzcon in Columbus OH but I'm not getting my hopes up. Lots of little stuff to do yet.
  11. Wow is that the same wood as pg1? It really brightens up, and seems to lose some of the green hue with the gloss on it. Really looking good!
  12. Lov’n it, keep posting up those pics. Very different and well executed.
  13. That’s some heavy pre-shading
  14. I also use the Citadel brand of primers. They are on par with the Tamiya primers I’ve used. For me the benefit has been the oversized can, at 292g, not just the smaller 180ml. Super fine and lays down thin and smooth. Comes in like 6 colors now as well. Used mostly by the wargamer figure painters.
  15. How many of us have tried to mask over PE only to have the tape pull up chunks of paint? So frustrating. I know this example isn’t LSP but i figure the technique is universal. My Frigate helo deck was just ruined trying to put down decals and then paint. I let it sit for 6 months. Just recently I was mulling over how to make this work. The helo deck was really an eyesore. Thought of detacking the tape on my arm but thatstill seems risky. Thought about putting down a paper mask and using elmers glue stick on the corners to hold it down. Then i was thinking about how to lay it down because when I went to cut out the shape it falls apart where all the lines cross [:S] and it hit me, why not just cut the friskett paper that i use to hold masks in alignment! I have medium tack friskett, why not try just that. I pushed the edges down with a rounded touthpick to seal them. Nudged some tamiya tape around pieces I didn't want overspray on and went to town. I couldn't be happier [hbday] lines are clean with no sptay getting under the friskett. I will say I didn't catch the register of the circle till after i pulled the tape though. I must have shifted the friskett when i was burnishing the edges. all in all very successful - absolutely no paint pulled up! so what have you guys had success with? Or even not had success with so we all can avoid that trial [;)]
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