DougN

Hi, Mates,
 
Took some time to begin, well - just Revell's old Spitfire Mk.24 has taken most of my attention during past few weeks... hope you understand and forgive me
 
Started with the cockpit - these few pieces from the old Eduard's photo etched set are a nice addition. 
Decided not to use the photo etched pilot's seat, OOB with some enhancements will work well enough for me.
 
That's how it looks like now, sprayed with Tamiya's primer. More details to be added, of course.  
         
Best regards
Hubert 
 

Kit came without N-2A gunsight so it's back to some scratchin'.

2.4mm styrene tube with a .3mm x 2.0mm strip wrapped around top for lens.  Then a 2.5mm disc and 2.0mm disc are punched out of styrene card and placed on top of lens cover to replicate removable cap.  Cap strap created using a piece of flattened out .3mm lead wire.
A 1mm rod is slid inside the tube to serve as a mounting pin.
 

 

 

Test fits looks good.  It's hard to see, trust me it's there, the lens cover cap is touched off with a secure nut punched out of styrene card.  Off to the paint shop.

Not really, they made some corrections to the instructions for the "D" (and later kits) so they aren't "crap". The errata created by Brett Green only applies to the original "C" boxing. I had no problems building mine with the kit instructions.

Thanks, Mark
 
A quick update.
 
Formation lights installed (used a part of the clear sprue out of the kit's box, had to reduce its diameter slightly), started to add the engine covers' fasteners, and the gaps in the leading edge of wings after installation of the guns filled and filed smooth.
 
      Best regards Hubert

Best technical book on the 110 to help modellers is by John Vasco imo
 
Haven't looked at it for a while but it looks only covers C D and E
 
Messerschmitt Bf110 B, C, D and E https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/190322389X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4IPRyb8DG50B3

Not really, they made some corrections to the instructions for the "D" (and later kits) so they aren't "crap". The errata created by Brett Green only applies to the original "C" boxing. I had no problems building mine with the kit instructions.

Hi guys!
Thank you for all your comments!
I am glad you are enjoying this build!
 
A little update on the seat today.
 
I added the handles and the foot rests.
 
The trick here was to get 2 identical handles with a very specific shape.
 
I sculpted the end of a small wooden dowel to get the inner profile of the handles by looking at the drawings in the He 162 Monogram Close-Up.
 
The I took a .75mm rod and pressed it around the wooden part and attached the ends with wire and a drop of ultra thin glue.
 

 
I glued the ends to maintain the shape as I decided to heat the styrene with a heat gun. This heating insures the parts keep their shape and not bend back somewhat.
 
I had to pull on the styrene with pliers a bit to keep the tension as the plastic was heated.
 

 
Then both pieces were placed over the dowel and cut together to make 2 identical parts.
 

 
Here is the seat, with the foot rests added too. Nothing too special for those except cutting with precision to get even sides in the end.
 

 
The seat in place:
 

 

 
Next update the throttle levers and I will try to see how everything fits in place before painting the cockpit.
 
Thanks for watching!
Alain

I need to feel like I'm progressing..so I CA''d the the upper wings and the horizontal stabilizers, followed up with some Tamiya Extra Thin...I'll probably add some detail to the LGB and engine, but won't go completely overboard...this is a big plane!
 

Apologies, I got a bit distracted making this:
 

 
Clearly, not for a Camel
 

 
Anyway - in the gun shop:
 

 
Top left, Eduard Brassin barrels. Centre left, a WNW Vickers. Bottom, rolled Part etches. Top right, the Hobby Boss Vickers, and below that, they Academy one. The Academy gun is upside down - that's how the kit would have you fit it
 

 
This is the Part etch on the Brassin barrels - I think they look better so I'm using them
 

 
Richard

Is there an extra row of treads in the Trump tire?  5 instead of 4, can't quite tell from the photos of the prototype which is correct. Nice job of molding & casting, BTW.
 
Cheers,
 
D.B.

FWIW, when I did a 1/48 Dr.I way back when, I painted the upper surfaces with Xtracolor RLM65 for the blue base (which is glossy/semiglossy), then drybrushed the streaks with an ModelMaster dark olive green paint (maybe the old DarkGreen RLM 82) and it worked great.  I'm sure you could use any base coat blue-green, and add a gloss or semi-gloss clearcoat and then dry brush your green over the top.

These are valid questions that require a clear answer. Anyone can see these panel lines on existing Mustangs. You can see see them in person in museums and air shows or in "walk-around" or "in detail" type of books. 
I opened a thread on the Mustang SIG forum about this topic. The more I think about this, the more I find it mind-blowing that we cannot "trust" a single existing Mustang. 
Radu 

After a long time I finally done this model, difficult kit, many modifications, but the result it is model of a beautiful plane.
Parts from antena wire:

Today, I cast resin the nacelle, the result is good but I cannot pour resin in several molds in the same time.
The part is not directly attaching to the sprue, so it will be easy to remove the sprue, but the molding is more difficult.


 

with recently finished Boeing F3B its time to restart Uhu build
after several months I have realized that tamiya epoxy was wrong way for this model and glued joints remain fragile
another problem was dihedral which is quite significant in case of Uhu so i just needed to correct it
so I broke all major parts and glued them together again with HPH epoxy glue which became only game in town for me for gluing resin kits
 

 
between the hulls and the wings remain visible gaps, which require aditional material to fill and will require heavy sanding and rescribing panels
but that is not big deal, most important is that geometry is ok
 

 

 
on the other hand engine cowling are masterpieces and after carefull cleaning they just look great
and I like how HPH solved propeller axis    
 

 
thanks for looking
jan

I took some photos of the basic SM79 shapes at Telford - I'll try and dig them out later this week...
 
Iain

Short answer, black. The first batch of P-61A aircraft were completed in OD/NG, but all were subsequently re-painted gloss black in the field. All later P-61A, B and C Black Widow aircraft were finished in gloss black finish from the factory.
 
The HB 1/32 P-61B kit assembles well with no real fit issues that can be described as an issue (incorporting additional support for the wings by making a supplimentary internal spars is a good idea). It is also pretty tail heavy, so needs a fair amount of nose weight to keep it on its nose wheel.
 
The kit itself is probably a little closer to a P-61A than the B model. The 8" nose extension ahead of the nose wheel bay is correct for the B model, but the radome type and style is for the very early P-61A aircraft (sand it smooth to represent a P-61B radome) and the main leg doors are those also of the P-61A aircraft (split doors that remain open when the aircraft is on the ground). The P-61B aircraft had doors that closed on the ground with a small 'L' shaped door opening to allow the legs to remain extended - these can be corrected or modified without too much hassle though. The wing tip ailerons also feature trim tabs which is only applicable to the P-61A aircraft; they were deleted on P-61B aircraft (fill them) - these are the major external differences between the two variants.
 
However, for the purist who wants to produce a truly accurate P-61B model, there are numerable minor differences internally (and some external) between the kit supplied parts and the full size aircraft that would require attention, but if you just want the kit to look like a P-61B, then sanding the radome smooth, filling the aileron trim tabs and modifying the main leg doors would suffice.
 
HTH
 
Derek

Now THAT looks like a Spitfire! Nice build...very nice build!
 
Wasn't this kit originally a Revell/Hasegawa hybrid anyway? I can't remember who boxed it first. Either way, this is the version I would rather go for. It's still a very nice kit....although if it's in a Hasegawa box, I may need to re-mortgage the house to buy it!
 
Best regards;
Steve

Absolutely.........And a great looking Spit there Doug.

Hi Lud......I will mail you a new tool Revell Spit for your Old mixed Revell/Hasegawa Spit...even trade.?? and I ll even pay your postage.

Slovakian Focke-Wulf Fw 189A-1
 

 
It's been a while.
 
I've had a serious run of bad luck with forum builds in the last couple of years, with the ones that I try to feature being more prone to screwing up, such as the awful P-39 Airacobra kit from Kittyhawk. My bin can certainly overfloweth. In an effort to buck the trend, I thought I'd build perhaps my most ambitious project yet....the HpH Fw 189A-1 resin kit. What could possibly go wrong!
 
If you want to take look at the review I wrote for this, check HERE
 
This is a very new project for me, and I'll post a few photos in the next days. Work so far consists of cleaning up the main components, such as the boom halves, stabiliser, wing, wing centre section, engine cowls etc. I have also glued the steel reinforced spar to the centre section and the outboard wing spares. For this, I'm using HpH's own epoxy glue with a 24hrs waiting time. CA will be used for everything else.
 
This kit is supplied with an amazing set of 'Wet Transfer' decals which contain no carrier film. All that is left on the model after application, is the ink. All I will use here though are the stencils, as this model will be finished in a scheme over than what is supplied. For this build, I will depict a Slovakian machine. I've always had a hankering for a Slovakian scheme ever since seeing it supplied with the old Matchbox 1/32 Bf 109E-3 kit. Markings on this will be airbrushed, with masks courtesy of Miracle Masks. The Slovaks operated the A-1, as well as the A-2 versions. This is what I aim to achieve.
 

 

 

 
 
This one is progressing nicely, and if you take your time in measuring, measuring again, and measuring once more, and then even checking your last measurement, then you should have no problem. Casting block removal takes a few evenings, but it's not too bad a chore.
 
There is so much geometry in this model that you need to ensure that a good number of parts align under test fit before committing to any glue. For example, you need to ensure that you make sure the nacelle sides align with the front of the lower centre section. You also much make sure that the leading edges align and that the rear trailing edges of the wing are in line. On top of that, the lower nacelle fuse section must dry fit properly and the recesses for the centre section landing flaps must the same width along the length of it. If you fail, the PE parts won't fit. Test-fitting the upper nacelle deck must also show the width is correct there.
 
Lastly, mocking up the tail booms and stabiliser should prove a perfect fit to the assembled wing, with the stabiliser being horizontal and the wing tips angled equally on each side. It sounds a nightmare, but a few evenings of preparation and care will pay off.
 
Oh, I also get kit No.003!! So this is either production kit #3, or the third to have popped from moulds, including the tests. Either way, this is pretty cool. 
 
HpH epoxy is also excellent and can be mixed in minute quantities. You can also manipulate several hours later, allowing for last minute tweaks. 
 
So far.....so good.
 

 

 

 
 

FWIW, when I did a 1/48 Dr.I way back when, I painted the upper surfaces with Xtracolor RLM65 for the blue base (which is glossy/semiglossy), then drybrushed the streaks with an ModelMaster dark olive green paint (maybe the old DarkGreen RLM 82) and it worked great.  I'm sure you could use any base coat blue-green, and add a gloss or semi-gloss clearcoat and then dry brush your green over the top.

Hi, All
Thanks for your nice comments
 
Having came back from my short winter holidays, yesterday I begun to add details in the wheel wells - just to avoid empty holes effect. Of course, this is not the end.
 
I'm fully aware, that this will never look perfect (I glued the wings' halves together too early), but hope it will anyway be better, than out of box.
 

 
Best regards
Hubert

Perhaps...just perhaps.. they have re-worked the fuselage(panel lines).   Then bingo.
  I have the Revell kit and it needs far too much plastic removed before a real Spit fuselage will appear. along with some other weirdness.