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About Mark_C

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    Hooked For Life

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    Florida, USA

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  1. I found this link about eggshells, etc: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235017564-bare-metal-foil/ Look for the February 27 post by "Old Man."
  2. Troy, This is what I did: I copied the url of the image you provided, and then clicked on the "insert image from URL" tab on the lower right of the message box. This is what happened:
  3. Just FYI, I remember reading years ago in an issue of FineScale Modeler about someone who stuck aluminum foil in a pot, and boiled it with eggshells. The longer the boil, the more the appearance changed. It made the foil look dull and changed the color a bit, too. Could be worth a shot.
  4. OK Brian, gotcha. So the power feeds to a regulator which then goes out. Here's a thought: would it be possible for you to drill a hole through the center of the stand? That way, you can run wires very discreetly up its length, and have an electrical plug on the end. This would connect to a receptacle inside the model's exhaust (hidden up inside). I'm thinking something like a phone jack. When you put the plane on the stand, the system has power. The power can then be any size you like, as it's no longer crammed inside the model. I'm thinking a simple shaft all the way down, to fit the wires. There may even be a way to paint the shaft, so you don't see the wires. Something like the orange you're using, which would look like a design feature.
  5. Brian, Maybe I can help with the electronics, as part of my job involves developing little doo-hickeys of the type you bought. There may be a way to discreetly power your devices. First, let me ask - do you know the current draw of all of your components together? I want to know how much amperage you're consuming, though I suspect it's in the milliamp range. Your vendor should be able to tell you that, or (if you need) I can show you how to get a reading. By the way - do NOT power LEDs with 9V when they're supposed to use 6V. You'll just turn them into SEDs - smoke emitting devices. I'm thinking 24 or higher gauge wire, leading from either a battery pack, or preferably, a 6V switching power supply that will provide all the current you'll ever need, without any worries about running out of juice.
  6. Right - because insulting people and groups definitely prevents crime.
  7. I have had good luck using watch glass cement. It's strong, dries clear, doesn't attack plastic I've used, and, well, it's sorta designed for the task: https://www.amazon.com/Hypo-Watch-Crystal-Cement/dp/B005MJDQZU
  8. Thank you, Kevin. Best of luck with your upcoming procedure.
  9. I must do, though I can't imagine why. Thanks, Kevin.
  10. Hi Kevin, I think I have solved the problem. It was with the sign-in name.
  11. I normally wouldn't post this, but - I had a system crash and when I recovered everything, I tried logging back in here. Since I'd forgotten my password, I reset it successfully. However, upon logging in, I cannot see any of the trading posts, and apparently any posts I make must be reviewed by a moderator. I've been a member for over two years. Can this be fixed, please?
  12. That bad, huh? Sigh.
  13. Hate to dig this one up, but it looks like the Fly 1/32 Tunnan release date is delayed from "maybe April" to "maybe June´╗┐" to maybe 2019 . . .maybe.
  14. I remember my father bringing this kit back for me from Europe when I was about 12. I was thrilled, especially as it just wasn't available locally. I doubt I built it at all well, but it was a lot of fun. Thanks for the memories.
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