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Posts posted by geedubelyer

  1. Both good ideas Roy. Lots of choices for schemes amongst those aircraft and tons of options on weathering.:thumbsup:


    Honestly, I think Airfix are missing a trick by not bringing out either the dH Vampire or Folland Gnat in 1/24th scale. I know LSP is predominantly biased towards props but either of these little jets could provide plenty of choice on schemes plus, for the Gnat the perfect option would be the Red Arrows. They've recently released both airframes in 1/72nd scale so much of the research might have been done already and neither aircraft is particularly large.

    It'll never happen of course.:D



  2. Hi Pete,


    Nothing illustrates your passion for detail and realism more than the transmission drip tube you made earlier.

    Beautifully crafted using an ingenious technique it looks real. Then, you cover it with the stretcher! That's above and beyond man. Loving it :wub:


    Very much looking forward to seeing the cockpit come together. 




    (What were your eventual thoughts on the boot print? It looks good on my monitor.....)

  3. 12 hours ago, Timmy! said:





    I'm using a tablet to view this so I was scrolling down looking at the pictures thinking "this is nice" when I got to the above photo which made me think, "oh, Timmy!'s included a reference photo to show us all the effects he's been aiming for". It was only when I scrolled further that I realised that it was still the model:blink:

    Absolutely marvellous results Timmy! :bow:

  4. Smashing video Torben, thanks for sharing. Many interesting visual effects on display as the light changes over the airframe.

    I'm very interested to see how Peter will replicate the arc of heat staining from the hot exhaust.


    The anti-glare panel demarcation is also interesting. It looks to be asymetrical from the front three quarter view although I'm sure it is n't.


    Plenty to enjoy about that video. 



  5. That is looking superb Pete, great job.


    What I particularly admire about your work is the realism brought about by the attention to detail. The wire bundles have a realistic haphazard appearance with different thicknesses to the bundles. The patches of chipping and wear are all thought out and not just randomly dotted all over simply for the sake of it. Certain high travel areas have dirt and grime applied but it is n't over the whole so again, looks perfectly real. 


    This is both inspirational and motivational and it's just the ceiling and might be hard to see on the completed model. Amazing.


    Looking forward to more.




  6. Fascinating topic.


    Hi Mike, the top photo you shared is a very tight crop. Is it possible that the photo itself might not be plumb? Could it have been tilted a degree or two to the left by the photographer to make the exhausts look level? Sometimes things just appear weird when they're cropped in tight and a little manipulation is needed for balance. 


    FWIW, I'd go with a slight downward droop but perhaps it depends on who manufactured the manifold?


    Looking forward to seeing more input on this topic.



  7. Hello Raphael.


    For sheer enjoyment I would recommend the Tamiya F-16. The way the kit fits and the engineering involved is virtually magical.


    If you seek a challenge then go for the Tamiya F-14. The overall shape is possibly better than the newer Trumpeter offering but it is old and lacking in several areas like the cockpit and wheel bays. Go for the newest "Black Knights" edition if you can find it. (Don't be too put off by the raised panel lines on the rear upper deck as close inspection of the real aircraft shows that to be surprisingly accurate.)


    Good luck with your choice and have fun.





  8. 21 hours ago, mozart said:

    Thanks Guy, that’s a sound idea which I may try, the current rigging is Prym elastic. I’m a bit worried about sag if I use stretched sprue though.....we’ll see. I could do the same with thin metal tube as well, there’s a thought! 


    That's a good idea Max. Micro tubing is easy to flatten with pliers and should be accurate to measure too. 

    Another way to use the metal tubing could be to flatten it and bend it over on itself trapping the Prym in the fold. The flattened tubing would be glued to the flying surfaces  as an anchor. The tail of the thread could be glued to the stretched thread to resemble a fastening similar to the real deal?


    I'm looking forward to seeing how you resolve your conundrum.



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