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Looks great Dan, you wouldn't know you had any serious issues. Looking forward to seeing it all come together.
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That would make cool Nam dio with a revetment and/or an OV-10, O-1 or O-2.
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I have a buddy that loves Russian aircraft like this; already sent him the link just now.
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Wow, great work! That paint looks amazing
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The kit is a bit of a love/hate for me. The interior cabin, instrument panel detail and engine construction are fantastic. But there are dozens of small things which are most certainly right out of 1983. The attachments of the wing struts is rough and ill-fitting. You will need to carve and rebuild those places with epoxy putty. The transparencies fit quite well. But the plastic is thick and distorts the views to the inside of the cabin. The model uses long, squishy springs to attach the various flight control surfaces and flaps. (I think the idea was to allow the model to articulate.) But this results in surfaces not mating up very well and requiring a lot of minor hand work to get them to fit snug. There's also a lot of surface detail which would be obvious in a newer model which is absent here, such as pushrods and refueling handles. But it builds into a very unique and accurately shaped model if you're willing to deal with the multitude of minor inconveniences.
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Cool! Colorful build! I had those decals, but just sold them to Wolf as I knew I would never get to it.
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Finally getting around to getting these to the printer. We're printing with Cartograf, so the quality speaks for itself. Coming soon designed specifically for the gorgeous Zvezda 1/144 Il-76 kit. Stay tuned for more info as we know it! China United and the PLAAF: CAAK/Air Koryo: Iraqi (including airliner scheme and quasi-military scheme): Cubana: Aeroflot:
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Any review on AIMs Bf 109G-10 gun cowling for Revell kit
LSP_Ray replied to oyoy5's topic in LSP Discussion
Not sure if this is the one you mean, but Wackyracer used an AIMS cowl in his build here. Just scroll down a bit. Not sure if it is the only correction needed, but you can read his whole build. -
I am a little bit surprised by the amount of beating needed on a Tamiya kit. The nose section fit is not straight forward either mate. More on that next posting.
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Thanks so much for the comments! I appreciate it! There is no build log of Red 1 here at LPS so I thought I'd share some highlights of the construction. I had planned on using the Quickboost resin radiator cowling and gun cowling but due to some issues of fit, I decided not to. Instead, I re-shaped the kit radiator cowling by spinning it on a Dremel. The exaggerated valley between the guns on the gun cowling were filled and shaped with Milliput. I used the Aires resin cockpit with HGW harnesses on this one. The kit wing guns and covers were replaced with Quickboost resin replacements and brass tubing for the barrels as the Quickboost barrels were warped. All exterior surfaces were riveted using RB Production's Rivet-R tool. Lots of wiring was added to the engine plug. The Henri Daehne prop blades were painted as wood even though the minor chipping made this all but unnoticeable in the end.
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Heresy! There is only one true scale! Well, two if you count 1/24th.
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That looks really great Chris. I'd almost certainly do the same and use masks versus such large decals on the plane. I like your technique and will have to give it a try. Carl
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New 1/32 F-4K/M (FG.1/FGR.2) Phantom kit announced by HKM
ghatherly replied to Derek B's topic in LSP Discussion
Luca, I could not disagree with you more. Prices are not honest or dishonest, people are and then only in regard to a agreed upon moral code. Dishonest selling is raising the price of items many times over their normal price of essential services or goods in an emergency situation like a pending hurricane or earthquake, etc thereby taking advantage of others forcing purchase at inflated prices under duress. That is what is dishonest and in the US and in most countries there are laws to prevent the practice as it is an awful thing to do. So you are right to be upset over dishonest pricing. That however is not the case here. Selling a non-essential item involving willing participants is normal business and normal human nature. How else does business exist without profit? It doesn’t. Whatever a person is willing to pay in a free exchange is not dishonest at all but completely fair and proper. If in that process prices take some buyers out of the market, so be it. Those buyers may be mad, but nether the seller or the buyer is dishonest. Sometimes sellers loose money on items too, and those loses have to be covered by profits on other items or the business fails. Meaning no disrespect for this simplified explaination, but this is how human commerce works. -
Thanks for looking! I've begun the tricky part...well, ok, most of the masking is tricky but, the alternative is decals and as much as I love the look of the decals I still don't trust my luck with them! I've gone with my patented tried and tested method of wet paper masking (those of you kind enough to see me through the Bf 110 G night fighter project will remember my pain with the Model Master acrylic that fell of that model) I cut out the scanned copies of the decals and set them on the model and wet them so they'd stick...tricky but it works if you're careful...(mileage may vary lol) A couple of images of progress as of quitting time tonight. 1st image; paper masks cut and wet to lay in place- painting... masks removed, some touch up's needed
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Lots of modeling skills in action there Pete! Beat that sucker into submission!
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wdossel changed their profile photo
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Is this the only correction that is necessary.
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Welcome aboard, sir! Of your choices, the F-105 rules itself out immediately, as it only has one engine, directly contravening the primary requirement for this GB! Kev
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Kicking around the idea of joining this GB, would be my first. Subject? Either Trumpeter F-105G Wild Weasel: or Tamiya Tomcat in hi-vis VF-41 (1976-78)colors:
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No worries! Things are better now! Cheers...Ron!
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Thank you very kindly! Ron, No need to apologize. Apparently my attention to detail has left to do other things. Thank you for informing me of that issue. I hadn't noticed, my new guy eye is showing. http://www.flickriver.com/photos/88160313@N03/8242532589/ I see what it should look like. Off to make the change. Thank you VERY much for the save!!! -Frank
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Really exceptional!
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Sorry Mike it’s been a long day. So, yes, either could work, and as I think has been pointed out, there are outfits that do vacuum casting. It requires serious equipment and also mold design that allows for the “boil” of the resin. In my view, at the level of where I was at, there was no need. Vacuuming requires a constant pump running to maintain vacuum (there may be chambers that hold a vacuum for the 4-6 hours required for resin cure but that’s specialized equipment I think). Conversely, pressurizing a mold while it cures (for 24 hours) is not feasible without serious specialized (i.e. leak-free) equipment. I’m likely not explaining this very well. Case study: when I began casting (about 24 years ago) I did not have vacuum equipment at first. I mixed my RTV at ambient pressure and poured the molds. Once cured, the entrapped bubbles in the rubber, while unseen on the surface, created “pimples” for lack of a better term, in the pressure cast parts. The pressure distorted the air voids and that was reflected in the cast parts. That was all it took for me to invest in vacuum equipment as shown above. Once I started vacuuming the mixed RTV, removing the entrapped air, the RTV was smooth and void free. Then pressure cast parts came out equally smooth. To pressurize RTV for at least 24 hours while it cures was not feasible, the equipment I was using leaked enough that the compressor would cycle once an hour or so. Not a good thing in my basement shop. I never really considered one way or the other, the experienced casters I learned from all did vac molds and pressure casting. Good enough for me, why reinvent the wheel and all that. As for talc v. Mold release, that also depends. Graham makes a valid point about talc drying out molds, but in my experience the silicone loses its properties no matter what you do. Talc simply helps break surface tension and helps resin “flow” into voids much better. Tomorrow I’ll try and post some photos of the types of parts I was casting where, without talc, even under pressure I would end up with voids in the finished parts. Remember - pressure does not force resin into voids, it simply reduces air bubbles into “suspension”, I.e. nothing. Hope this helps! jimbo
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Nicely done!
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Heavy Mod - 1/18 21st Century Toys P-47D Razorback
Hetstaine replied to JayW's topic in Works in Progress
Not very often, if ever, have i read a topic in the last twenty odd years on the internet and then gotten up and walked away shaking my head. Your work and attention to detail is sublime Jay. Reading through this is in two sittings, your passion and enjoyment for this project has come through my screen and left me smiling. Really lovely work and i 'm glad you could share that passion with so many people. -
Ooooo... I just might be able to turn that guy into a 269C or C-1 with some work. I can definitely turn it into a 269B without modifying much. This ought to be a good kit.
