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  2. Then Airfix, unless you really demand one of the special decal schemes Hasegawa offers. The Airfix cockpit is better, the one thing Hasegawa has that's better is the surface detail is finer. Airfix hasn't yet figured out how to make fine panel lines. Matt
  3. Humbrol model filler. I found the decals after searching the whole of the bungalow, I even looked in the kitchen cupboards. It's still my plan A but here's Plan B:
  4. For some mysterious reason, the US plane had the round antenna that must be present on the British plane...! At least, the visible tail wheel structure has been correctly depicted.
  5. Today
  6. As some of you probably observed, I slowed down noticeably the work on the MiG. The culprit is my Spitfire in the BoB group build. I'm closer to the end of the scratchbuidling steps on the RAF plane. So I hope being able to come back to the MiG somewhere in July.
  7. But iff you look at what you get from mfh that's unbelievable and I found a shop the are selling it for 620 euro still a lot Mark
  8. Scott, I have sent multiple emails to Bruce at Parts-R-Parts and so far no reply. His web site does not appear to have any method for ordering his resin sets. Do you or anyone know if he is still in business? Thanks, John
  9. Perfect weathering again Ben. Your models always look very realistic and convincing. Congrat's! Chuck
  10. Thanks, Aaron! All credit goes to Kent for his amazing builds, though. May I quote you on the website? Kev
  11. I'm still following, my friend Ben. Great job. Im working in a C-130 Hercules 1/49 (50 cm), printing all pices. Right now Im working on 3DMaxs about project Embraer EMB-326 Xavante maybe scale 1/32. Hercules de Araujo from Brasil
  12. Well as with all the other KLP guides I've bought this is another excellent book. I'd even go to say the best especially with my luv of late war Luftwaffe subjects. Highly recommended.
  13. Your build continues to amaze - god I would love this a/c in kit form in 1/32! Regarding printing on an angle, I do that as a matter of course but have found issues with square/rectangle objects with flat sides or objects that are box-like not coming out particularly straight whereas if I do them flat to the print plate they come out OK but with more obvious layer lines. Do you think that is likely due to the "stock" z axis slide in the photon? I am really tempted to get that z slide upgrade you linked before but its spendy so haven't pulled the trigger yet....
  14. Thanks for the catch. That could very well be on me, not an issue with the resin. It's amazing how easy it is to catch issue like this from the pictures, I didn't even notice this during the assembly.
  15. No padding on that gunsight? Yikes, I'd hate to be a pilot making a forced landing. Gonna be wearing dentures after that. Great work on the cockpit Chuck!
  16. My cell phone just does not want to show the black green of the propeller blades (Tamiya XF-27). I put one of the main gear wheels (XF-1) next to a prop for comparison.
  17. Hi guys, Another required update: opening the small intake under the belly. The kit part was closed with a badly simulated mesh face. With some drills and files, a far better replica can be obtained. This asks for a little bit of time as the plastic is quite thick. And as you can see, I also extended the walls of the radiator as the kit has a too classical issue in Spitfire kits: a far too shallow radiator! There are not ten ways to solve that: scratchbuilding a fully new and deeper radiator is the way to go. Nonetheless, it is important to check regularly that the new components will not create a problem when the upper wing will be added. First, you have to remove the movable rear section cautiously. Then, thin its rear edge and rebuild the flap part with the addition of missing sides in plastic card. Again, multiple dry assemblies are required to check the correct positioning of the part. If you look closely, you will see that I also added some additional rivets where I extended the part. This will give a better visibility to the rear section of the radiator (thanks to a more opened position). The next step will be the radiator box itself and the "ramps" to add between the wing surface and the box. Then, the final step for the radiator will be the addition of the last external details such as the flap hinges, the angled tube in front of the box and the weapons heating tubes behind it.
  18. Moving along with a few more things showing some progress. The spinner, propeller blades and the landing gear have been base coated. The spinner, wheel well doors and MLG have also had a couple applications of Flory Models Dark Dirt Wash.
  19. Yes, much better looking and not as fragile.
  20. I’d like to see a 1/32 SM79 but that is more for the 1/32 topic area. Maybe a 1/48 Sunderland etc might be good too!
  21. Id love for hk to shrink down the b-25 altought i must say im not that impressed with the initial 1/48 hkm b-17 at the price the are asking ill stick with the 30$ revell one
  22. Thanks. I’d like a B-24. Still sitting on the fence with the 1/32 HB.
  23. Should have been more specific- the B/ early Stuka.
  24. Thanks! Interesting. I built this over 20 yrs ago with little modelling experience and still very pleased with results (a bit of filler on the lower wing root aside- probably my jam fistedness) Have been out of the hobby for a while so thought it may be superceded by now but no! Might just have to wait for the wingsy to see if it trumps the Tamiya
  25. Great to know will go for Eduard kit.
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