Bruce_Crosby Posted April 10, 2018 Share Posted April 10, 2018 Hi Guys, Here we are again with another Revell kit. There's been a lot of blather and hot air about this model but my take on it is that it's cheap, well researched and fairly well detailed. I have the kits from Dragon, Tamiya and Zoukei-Mura but this one is the only model I've got anywhere near completion, in fact the only other one started is the Dragon offering and that soon ground to a halt. Revell's construction is very clever, parts fit is good, details actually very nice once you get paint on, the kit's pale grey/blue plastic tends to wash out everything until the paint makes it pop. Yes, it doesn't have the detail of the Tamiya and Z-M kits but it looks like a Mustang. Revell P-51D by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr The first things I worked on were the exhausts: solid pipe ends but a few minutes work with my Archimedes drill and a suitably sized drill bit and . . . . Revell P-51D by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr The tyre treads were cleaned up with a file and scriber. Revell P-51D by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Wheel wells in MMP's take on Green Zinc Chromate Revell P-51D by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Pilot's seat with Fine Molds belts shaped and test fitted. Revell P-51D by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Starboard cockpit frame with the great decals Revell P-51D by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr And the port side Victor K2, quang, Shaka HI and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce_Crosby Posted April 10, 2018 Author Share Posted April 10, 2018 And straight in with the next part. Revell P-51D by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Kit decals on the IP. This kit is like my recent 262, a near as can be Out-Of-The-Box build. Revell P-51D by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr More Cockpit bits. Revell P-51D by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Fine Molds belts painted and fitted. Identical to those in the Hercules and I saw lots of those! Revell P-51D by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr With the side frames added. Revell P-51D by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Cockpit mounted, fuselage halves together and the wings on. Hardly any filler, just a few smears and wipes of Mr Surfacer. Revell P-51D by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Wheel wells. Chek, Uncarina, Shaka HI and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce_Crosby Posted April 10, 2018 Author Share Posted April 10, 2018 Some more: Mustang moments by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr The great cure-all, Mr Surfacer! Mustang moments by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr More of the stuff! Gerhard, Bill_S, mattlow and 11 others 14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerhard Posted April 10, 2018 Share Posted April 10, 2018 Good going!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted April 10, 2018 Share Posted April 10, 2018 Nice! I intend on doing my Revell Mustang similarly, with the exception of a tiny bit of AM in the form of some belts, some AM PE for the IP, and some custom paint masks I made. Looking great so far, and cant wait to see some paint on.............. Have you decided on a scheme yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_K2 Posted April 10, 2018 Share Posted April 10, 2018 Looks like a good start, and I really like those belts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quang Posted April 10, 2018 Share Posted April 10, 2018 Great OOB experience. Bruce, can you show us how you bent those FineMolds belts? I tried boiling water, kitchen hot plate, electrical bulb but each and every time only managed to break the parts. Thanks, Quang Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce_Crosby Posted April 10, 2018 Author Share Posted April 10, 2018 Fine Molds belts? It's a long answer! First thing is care, lots of it. Second thing is more care! They are fragile and break so easily. The first set I ever made broke and I went to HGW for a while. But as you may know, they are a pain to put together. You need to know exactly where you want each belt to sit, which one is a the bottom of the heap and which is at the top. Start at the bottom and work up. So I use hot water, dip the individual belt in for a few minutes then take it out and start to bend it with tweezers, clips, round hose electronics pliers. The minute you can't work the ABS, shove it back in the hot water and carefully do a bit more. So each belt can take quite a time, going in and out of the water. Plus you've go to get the attachment points to line up properly. Some lap belts fix to the outside of the seat pan but lots to the inside face. Check your references! Carry on with all the belts making sure each belt sits properly both on the seat and to its attachment, but also in relation to the other belts. Then paint, detail and shade them. Then fit them in the same arrangement as you first curved them. You've bent them to fit a particular order, make sure you stick to it or you'll get bits of belt sticking up in the air! Back to care! The attachment points and fastening clips are usually very fragile, but some practice and TLC and it will be ok. Hope this helps! Regards, Bruce Crosby quang, Uncarina and Gigant 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quang Posted April 10, 2018 Share Posted April 10, 2018 Thank you Bruce. I guess I didn't leave the belts long enough in the hot water. Next time I'll try it your way. Thanks again. All the best, Quang Bruce_Crosby 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMaben Posted April 11, 2018 Share Posted April 11, 2018 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce_Crosby Posted April 17, 2018 Author Share Posted April 17, 2018 (edited) Hi Guys, Who invented NMF? It's a real pain in the butt! Got a layer of Mr Surfacer 1500 Black all over the model and started applying the new MMP metallic paints. Having used MMP for a while now I find I like their take on colours, sort of muted, not the Spanish “in your face†type of colours. But I'm new to the metallics. It's been a mixture of good and bad. Their Chrome is absolutely stunning, build it up in thin layers direct from the bottle and it's easy peasy over a black base. However I managed to pool some of it, not a problem with MMP as it levels beautifully, but I managed to stick my finger in it! Total klutz moment! This morning I tried to sand and feather the paint but the Gunze primer ripped and it doesn't feather well at all. So I masked the affected area, took off the paint and primer and then put on MMP's own Black Primer which is acrylic. Wish I'd used it rather than the Gunze, it sands and feathers beautifully. Top marks to MMP for a great primer. Used MMP Silver on the wings, White Aluminium on the nose, flaps, ailerons and selected fuselage panels. Later on today I'll post some photos of the disaster (just about to meet my Lady for brunch) and the recovery. It's not the best model in the world but it's my first NMF and I'm using it as a learning tool. I've got a second kit ready to be built, they are ridiculously cheap here in the UK. And after building Revell's 262 as Red 8, I'm definite going to build another one of those, fully loaded. Regards, Bruce Crosby Edited April 17, 2018 by Bruce_Crosby Uncarina 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hansen Posted April 17, 2018 Share Posted April 17, 2018 Fine Molds belts? It's a long answer! First thing is care, lots of it. Second thing is more care! They are fragile and break so easily. The first set I ever made broke and I went to HGW for a while. But as you may know, they are a pain to put together. You need to know exactly where you want each belt to sit, which one is a the bottom of the heap and which is at the top. Start at the bottom and work up. So I use hot water, dip the individual belt in for a few minutes then take it out and start to bend it with tweezers, clips, round hose electronics pliers. The minute you can't work the ABS, shove it back in the hot water and carefully do a bit more. So each belt can take quite a time, going in and out of the water. Plus you've go to get the attachment points to line up properly. Some lap belts fix to the outside of the seat pan but lots to the inside face. Check your references! Carry on with all the belts making sure each belt sits properly both on the seat and to its attachment, but also in relation to the other belts. Then paint, detail and shade them. Then fit them in the same arrangement as you first curved them. You've bent them to fit a particular order, make sure you stick to it or you'll get bits of belt sticking up in the air! Back to care! The attachment points and fastening clips are usually very fragile, but some practice and TLC and it will be ok. Hope this helps! Regards, Bruce Crosby Damn. I thought it was gonna be a lot easier than that. Oh well, we'll see how it goes. -d- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reconspit Posted April 17, 2018 Share Posted April 17, 2018 ...very cool..., got to get me one or two of those... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petrov27 Posted April 17, 2018 Share Posted April 17, 2018 Sorry to hear of your issues with the metal finish but everything looks great so far! Is MMP = Mr Paint or another brand? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Victor K2 Posted April 17, 2018 Share Posted April 17, 2018 Mission Model Paint (MMP). I endorse the above comments on this amazing paint. I bought mine at Newark model show last year and have been amazed by the coverage and durability. Tiger Hobbies are the U.K. importers and have began to supply a number of retailers. Great model by the way, I look forward to seeing more. Bob. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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