1/32 Hasegawa Ki-61 Tei Hien

[LSP_Kevin]

30 minutes ago, Thunnus said:

The first debonder (can't remember the brand) that I tried was ineffectual... kinda like what Kevin is describing.  If you can get it, I highly recommend trying Great Planes Pro CA Debonder.  It works great on the CA glues that I'm using (Zap Thin and Medium, BSI Black Rubberized, Flexy).

 

Yeah, I think that's my problem: ineffectual debonder. Sadly, the Great Planes stuff is not available here. This is the stuff I'm using, and seems to be the only variety available to me locally:

 

I've used nail polish remover in the past also, which not only doesn't work any better, but can also damage the plastic if you're not careful!

 

Kev

[LSP_Kevin]

Actually, BNA also stocks the AMMO stuff, which I guess I'll try next time, but it's not exactly cheap!

 

https://www.bnamodelworld.com.au/hobby-tools-supplies-misc-supplies-ammo-by-mig-jimenez-a-mig-8036

 

Kev

[Thunnus]

Kevin... that Z-7 debonder looks familiar.  It may be the stuff that I tried initially.

[Volksjager]

On 6/4/2023 at 12:36 PM, LSP_Kevin said:

Actually, BNA also stocks the AMMO stuff, which I guess I'll try next time, but it's not exactly cheap!

 

https://www.bnamodelworld.com.au/hobby-tools-supplies-misc-supplies-ammo-by-mig-jimenez-a-mig-8036

 

Kev

I am using the Ammo stuff at the moment. It works, but I find everything just goes sticky if it's left on there too long. Still undecided if it's softening the plastic or if it's leftover glue, lol. Good paint remover though.

 

As you said Kevin, unfortunately, there are not many others to find locally, so I don't use it much. Will definitely have to look at giving it more of a go.

Edited June 6, 2023 by Volksjager

[LSP_Kevin]

6 minutes ago, Volksjager said:

As you said Kevin, unfortunately, there are not many others to find locally, so I don't use it much. Will definitely have to look at giving it more of a go.

 

I think that's the main problem: everyone I've ever seen employ this technique extensively seems to use the Great Planes stuff, which tells me that it's probably not worth bothering with if, like us, you can't get it.

 

Kev

[Thunnus]

A bit of clean-up has been performed on the starboard wing bottom.

 

The wing root gap on the topside is being filled with stretched sprue on the plastic-plastic portions and black CA glue on the plastic-resin connection.

 

[scvrobeson]

Good progress John!  Even with the superglue needed, it looks like the fit of the conversion kit was pretty good. And the base Hasegawa kit should fit pretty well to begin with.  Keep it up

 

 

 

Matt

[Thunnus]

Thanks Matt!

 

I've glued the port wing into place.  Again, I used black CA to fill gaps and cleaned with debonder to minimize sanding.

 

 

The port wing root gap is bigger than the starboard side so I used a thicker piece of stretched sprue to fill it.

 

 

I used a David Union rotary tool with a small ballhead attachment to grind down the raised portion of the stretched sprue.  This was then sanded down further with sandpaper.

 

 

Mr Surfacer 1000 is  used to touch up the joints as appropriate.  A shot of Mr Surfacer Primer 1000 is applied to check the joins.

 

[Citadelgrad]

Your work area/subject always looks like a NASA clean room, John.

 

My stuff looks like a disaster, and at that stage, like a tutorial for detectives learning to spot and lift fingerprints.  

 

My finished stuff doesn't look as immaculate as your "popped it into to the lightbox to check the seams" photos.

 

Amazing. 

[Thunnus]

Thanks Bill!  I don't have the most luxurious or spacious work bench.  The main work space is a children-sized desk top.  With space at a premium, I try to keep things as clean and tidy as possible.  The work surface is a sheet of poster board that I cover with white paper.  I'm an engineer so I salvage rolls of old engineering plans and use the unprinted sides.  The paper gets replaced every couple of weeks to give me a clean background.

 

The bottom joint cleanup is almost complete.  The messiest looking joint going laterally between the wheel wells is actually cleaner than it looks and should be fine after a wash is applied.

 

 

I forgot to cut out the slots in the wing bottoms to accommodate the drop tank racks.  That got me thinking about a better way... using magnets to attach the racks and keep the wing bottoms completely clean otherwise.  So I drilled a couple of holes and dropped in the smallest of the magnets. These are 1/16"  (0.0625mm) in diameter.

 

 

The racks are BARELY thick enough to accommodate the magnets.

 

 

Voila... detachable drop tank racks!

 

[Troy Molitor]

Removable drop thanks and racks.  Nice idea and it turned out great so far.  Will those tiny magnets hold the rank to the wing with tanks installed or will you need more magnets? !'m just curious to know how strong those ting magnets are.  

 

How did the bass fishing trip go for you?  Heading up to Wiscony soon for the same thing .  Fishing, is always a good time!    

[mc65]

Mmmmh... something strange with the mags dimensions, I guess?

if an inch is 25,4mm 25,4:16=1,58mm.

 

I purchase them from a german e-shop, and 1,5 is a common size, in the little range.

The 1,5 diameter x 0,5 high develops an acctrative force of about 33gr. So a couple of them will be more than enough to support a drop tank (well, at least til it's empty).

 

 

[amurray]

On 6/4/2023 at 12:26 AM, LSP_Kevin said:

 

Yeah, I think that's my problem: ineffectual debonder. Sadly, the Great Planes stuff is not available here. This is the stuff I'm using, and seems to be the only variety available to me locally:

 

I've used nail polish remover in the past also, which not only doesn't work any better, but can also damage the plastic if you're not careful!

 

Kev

Nail polish remover is acetone so, yes, it can quickly damage/craze plastic.

[Alain Gadbois]

Excellent results on the wing to fuselage joints!

That you forgot the slots in the wings for the racks was a blessing in disguise. In my build,opening the slots and getting the racks to fit right took much more time than what I expected.

 

Alain

[Thunnus]

2 hours ago, Troy Molitor said:

Removable drop thanks and racks.  Nice idea and it turned out great so far.  Will those tiny magnets hold the rank to the wing with tanks installed or will you need more magnets? !'m just curious to know how strong those ting magnets are.  

 

How did the bass fishing trip go for you?  Heading up to Wiscony soon for the same thing .  Fishing, is always a good time!    

 

Thanks Troy!  Two magnets are more than sufficient to hold the racks + drop tank securely as I'll show below.  Bass fishing was tough.  52 bass for the two of us for a whole day of fishing (dawn to dusk).  But happy just to get out there again.

 

 

 

1 hour ago, mc65 said:

Mmmmh... something strange with the mags dimensions, I guess?

if an inch is 25,4mm 25,4:16=1,58mm.

 

I purchase them from a german e-shop, and 1,5 is a common size, in the little range.

The 1,5 diameter x 0,5 high develops an acctrative force of about 33gr. So a couple of them will be more than enough to support a drop tank (well, at least til it's empty).

 

 

 

Sorry for the typo!  1/16" = 0.0625 inches = 1.58mm.

 

 

1 hour ago, Alain Gadbois said:

Excellent results on the wing to fuselage joints!

That you forgot the slots in the wings for the racks was a blessing in disguise. In my build,opening the slots and getting the racks to fit right took much more time than what I expected.

 

Alain

 

Yes, a blessing in disguise.  If I had to choose, I'd probably opt for clean wings without the tanks but now I have the best of both worlds.

 

Here is the wing after the magnets were hidden with putty.

 

Hang test with the rack and drop tank... holds nicely with just two magnets.

Edited June 10, 2023 by Thunnus