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Tamiya Extra Thin OK for Clear Parts?

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2 hours ago, mozart said:

I always use Gator Glue or a similar PVA based substance.


Me too, though will also use CA or plastic cement as the need arises. On my Kitty Hawk P-39, I actually tried UV-curing gel for the rear section, but it didn't have the strength I was hoping for, and IIRC, resorted to TET in the end.



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22 hours ago, Lothar said:

I use nothing else for clear parts, never encountered the slightest problem. Just my two cents and experience.



I use it for many clear parts such as the windscreens mentioned in the OP, or where structural strength in the join is desirable like for sideways opening canopies.  But I tend to use PVA where there's a risk of glue runs etc. Formula 560 or Gator's Grip are my go-to brands.


19 hours ago, Helmsman said:

It is ok to use with some precautions like keeping fingers away from joints.


Sound advice.

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I don't use normal Tamiya extra thin on clear parts except when there is perfect fit and no pressure is needed. However, I have recently found Tamiya Extra thin "quick setting" which seems to evaporate super fast, and might be good for things like clear parts, where there are less chance of drips or the glue going somewhere it shouldn't. 

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Going against the grain here, but I had the canopy of a Trumpeter P-47D fog badly when attaching it with Tamiya Extra Thin (regular, not quick setting).  The canopy was posed closed, so I surmised that fumes were trapped in the cockpit, causing fogging.


In retrospect, perhaps there was a gap between the windscreen and canopy that allowed minute amounts of paint particles in while I airbrushed.  

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've always used that type of cement for most clear parts.  Never a problem as long as you don't go too heavy with it.  It doesn't fog because there's nothing to fog.  It simply melts the plastic.  There's no off-gassing to fog like super glue.

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