Rick K Posted October 15, 2019 Posted October 15, 2019 (edited) My plan is to crank this out by November then start something really big. The Fa330 always interested me as a unique aircraft with an equally unique mission. This was towed by a U-Boat so the pilot could see beyond U-Boat horizon view and report any enemy activity. I also walk by an actual Fa330 a few times a week. Finally there is a lot of rigging and I will use either RB or GasPatch turnbuckles. This will get me feeling comfortable for my WNW build, next on the bench. That's right Kiwi Mike...no typo here. 30 minutes into this build I was already regretting this. This aircraft is mostly tubular and the parts are typical short run injection. Loads of flash and seams. Cleaning these tubes are going to drive me batty. So I will cut all remaining tubular parts from .5mm, .4mm and .3mm styrene rod. This will actually be easier than cutting from sprue and cleaning. Building balsa wood and tissue models experience will come in handy. Resin main control pully wheel (feel free to correct me on correct definition) and control stick installed with epoxy. I also wrapped the control stick handle with .2mm lead wire. A brush coat of paint will give the handle a ribbed appearance. Spar and 4 sub control pully wheels are cut from styrene. More fun with .5mm and .4mm styrene rods. The rudder gets a .4mm rod on both sides and will be sanded down and this was fabric. Will also add grab handle I cut out at top of rudder. Edited January 2, 2020 by Rick K LSP_Kevin, Iain, Alain Gadbois and 8 others 11
Thomas Lund Posted October 16, 2019 Posted October 16, 2019 Nice work on a very interesting topic - will follow this Rick K 1
Rick K Posted October 16, 2019 Author Posted October 16, 2019 Skids added. This required more .5mm styrene rods. The Fly plastic is soft and works well with welding the styrene to Fly plastic. Cement is Tamiya Thin Cement. MEK is too hot for this. Skids added using only one kit part for braces. All others were measured and replaced with .5mm styrene rod. I drilled a .7mm hole at base of rotor mast. Inserted a trimmed .7mm aluminum tube completely through. This will be used for the rigging. Trak-Tor, Thomas Lund, MikeC and 6 others 9
Rick K Posted October 18, 2019 Author Posted October 18, 2019 More scratch work. Rigging bar on rudder, left. Grab bar on tail, right. Will reduce the rib via sanding prior to paint. Grab handles/rigging retainers .4mm styrene rod, bent via mandrel and hair dryer, top main body near base of rotor mast and bottom of main body installed. Tail pad just below stabilizer. Also added .4mm aluminum tube just forward to tail pad for rigging. Grab handles/rigging retainers on rotor mast. What the heck are these? Formed using a mandrel and hairdryer I glued the straight pieces to curved pieces. After a little trimming. Cleats don't fail me now. The cleats and grab/rigging retainers were offered in PE. I elected to makes these out of stryene so they cen weld to plastic. The PE would eventually get knocked off as there will be much handling during painting and rigging. I feel these will be stronger at PE attached with CA. Almost ready to start painting. themongoose, scvrobeson, Alain Gadbois and 6 others 9
Rick K Posted October 23, 2019 Author Posted October 23, 2019 Added RB Productions trimmed turnbuckle to the skids. Cannot see it? Drilled .45mm hole and secured with epoxy. Priming to begin. LSP_Kevin, chukw, Trak-Tor and 6 others 9
Troy Molitor Posted October 23, 2019 Posted October 23, 2019 Awesome work on itty bitty details. Nicely done. Rick K 1
Troy Molitor Posted October 23, 2019 Posted October 23, 2019 I have to say Kent it’s going to look really really small next to your recent Tempest build. Rick K 1
Aluxe Posted October 26, 2019 Posted October 26, 2019 wow, I love this model, some time ago I made one, and it has given me many satisfactions, I will be attentive to your progress, Rick K 1
Gazzas Posted October 26, 2019 Posted October 26, 2019 That is really impressive scratch work, Rick! Love you line of thinking to make things more durable. Rick K 1
Rick K Posted October 27, 2019 Author Posted October 27, 2019 On 10/23/2019 at 9:06 AM, seiran01 said: Looking good! Cheers Mate! On 10/23/2019 at 9:10 AM, Troy Molitor said: Awesome work on itty bitty details. Nicely done. hanks Troy On 10/26/2019 at 12:35 AM, Aluxe said: wow, I love this model, some time ago I made one, and it has given me many satisfactions, I will be attentive to your progress, enjoy Aluxe 20 hours ago, Gazzas said: That is really impressive scratch work, Rick! Love you line of thinking to make things more durable. Cheers Gazzas On 10/16/2019 at 7:30 AM, Thomas Lund said: Nice work on a very interesting topic - will follow this Thanks Thomas
Rick K Posted October 30, 2019 Author Posted October 30, 2019 20 On 10/27/2019 at 2:04 PM, MARU5137 said: Rick.. Now this is definitely a unique build from you. Looking very Intricate and you are doing a SUPERB job. so may I ask when it is completed what will its dimensions be.thank you. Thanks Maru. I'll get final dimensions to you. With the blades the footprint will be about 8x10 inches (20 x 25 cm)
Rick K Posted October 30, 2019 Author Posted October 30, 2019 (edited) Hope of a November competition are fading. So perhaps mid November. Prime and painted the main frame is ready for the rigging to begin. Black from the attack. Gunze 117 RLM76 used thinned with Mr Leveling Thinner. 2:3 - RLM 76:MLT The details show up nicely with a coat of light paint. A few touch ups and its on the the rigging. Edited October 30, 2019 by Rick K MikeC, LSP_Kevin, scvrobeson and 3 others 6
Brett M Posted October 30, 2019 Posted October 30, 2019 Very cool looking build and nice to see something completely different!
Rick K Posted January 1, 2020 Author Posted January 1, 2020 (edited) Happy 2020 and have a healthy, prosperous year with plenty of bench time. Edited January 6, 2020 by Rick K Radub, Troy Molitor, LSP_Kevin and 4 others 7
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