Jump to content

Rick K

LSP_Members
  • Content Count

    1,006
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    10

Everything posted by Rick K

  1. Did exact same with those "pistons" as breakage was guaranteed. Best of luck with surgery. Hope you have a pretty nurse.
  2. I've used Vallejo Model Air (VMA) and Vallejo Model (VM). VMA worked well for me as long as surface prep is good. I slowly moved to Tamiya and Gunze mainly because these paints played well with Gunze MLT and Rapid Thinner. I also had issues with Vallejo clears. Could have been user error on the clears. I found Gunze and Tamiya clears worked better for me. When MRP hit my bench, my VMA paints were promptly retired. VM & Panzer Aces paints are still on my bench as they have excellent leveling qualities and are excellent for brush painting. Especially cockpit
  3. Correct on the kit spinner shape being too big and "bulbous" and radiator opening too large. Additionally, the kit prop blades are too "thick".
  4. Chuck - Really great stuff. The pit looks awesome and your riveting/scribing is sublime. My eyes hurt just following the riveting/scribing. Here is comparison of Barracuda Nose replacement side by side with the SH kit nose. You can see the work Anthony in NZ, et.al did to improve the nose of this really nice kit. If this is post inappropriate, my apologizes, feel free to have this removed.
  5. Kudos on the new, clean, fresh look Kev. Thank you for caring.
  6. Exceptional work on this. love the engine work. I'm inspired and considering to pull my Ki84 off my FS list.
  7. I saw it and Mike allowed me to fondle it for a few moments. It's damned slick. I'm getting one.
  8. Thanks for the coaching. Lets connect next year. Model on.
  9. The best looking J2M3 I have seen. So Miloslav, will these IJN/IJAF MRP colors only be privy to you? ...waiting.
  10. Love Archer resin decals! Woody displayed his beautiful Wildcat next to my Tempest at the 2020 Old Dominion Open (Richmond, VA). Had a chance to chat with Woody at the table. Had I known who it was I was chatting with I would have given him compliments on his product and showed him where I used his product on my Tempest. I have used them with great success. Apply on a glossy surface or directly on MRP surface. Setting solution, I use Walthers, and the film disappears. If your final color is silver (NMF) and your paint is Alclad, AK Interactive, etc.. Be sure to a
  11. Brian - Here is the 2020 Old Dominion Open Rules (Part A) A. Inappropriate Entries The Chief Judge will exclude/remove from competition any entry considered by Contest officials to be inappropriate or offensive to generally acknowledged standards of taste and acceptability. The following are prohibited in competition and may not be placed on display at any IPMS event: 1. There shall be no depiction of excretory functions depicting any human being or animal. 2. There shall be no depiction of sadomasochistic activity, equipment, settings or situations, to
  12. Really nice finish on this Chris. I dare you (think nose art) take to ODO 2021.
  13. Hey Chuck a great start on this. Love the rescribing and pit work. Ace Maker gyroscope gunsight. If you happen to have Roy's BR32011 Spitfire Upgrade Part II this has the Ace Maker gunsight as well as Barr & Stroud. I swiped the Ace Maker. Trust me, this gunsight is a little gem. This is Roys Acemaker Gyro gunsight i used om my Mk.V Tempest. I used the supplied SH PE reflector shade. Go to my WIP page 3 and scroll down for more build details. Also check how I worked the
  14. Appreciate the kudos Brian. Double cheers to you Maru. Best to you Mark.
  15. I see stuff like this and I feel my efforts are minuscule. Once in awhile I take a long look at my SOD 1:32 Planet conversion 190C and for a brief moment feel inspired to bring it to the bench. Made lots of build decisions and I realize how much of mine is incorrect. I'm using artistic license while you are executing an aero engineering approach. When and if I do finish my 190C I'll pass on close up photos. I'm geeking out on the engineering and exquisite detail on this. Your approach to exhaust build has solved a "how am I gonna make this sucker fit?" issue on m
  16. A 30 day group build with our local club. I did not finish in 30 days. This was about a 40 day build. Fastest I have ever completed a kit, ever! Build details: Revell P47M #04185 (I know P47M did not serve RAF SEAC, just don't look at the engine or cockpit too closely. And the kit cost $5) Out of Box build Drilled out Blast Tubes MRP used through out with exception of Alclad for Drop tanks and Gunze for Interior Green and Chromate Yellow colors. Cockpit detail picked out with Vallejo Model Color Decals from Eduard Aussie Eight Spitfir
  17. Panel line wash added then sealed Tamiya XF86 Flat Clear thinned with Mr. Leveling Thinner 1:1. Exhaust stain with MiG Industrial Dirt powder. Turbine and Flight hood get a shot of Alclad 123 Exhaust Manifold. Cordite stains is highly thinned Tamiya X19 Clear Smoke. Remember, less is more. Powder effects sealed with mineral spirits then overall sealed sealed with XF86. Locator pins for drop tanks are .5mm aluminum rod. Landing gear installed followed by racks and drop tanks.
  18. Test fit engine/cowling. Decals applied straight on the MRP paint surface, no gloss decal prep. Effort was flawless with no silvering. Underside decal work completed. Marking were borrowed from Eduard Aussie Eight decal sheet. Recognition lights are kit decals. Gloss varnish overall to begin weathering. Gloss is Tamiya X22 clear and Mr. Leveling Thinner 1:1 ratio using my PS290 ProCon Boy with .5mm equipped with fan nozzle.
  19. Underside masked MRP 108 Dark Earth is applied to topsides. First covering is marbled, then... blended. My Iwata airbrush photobomb is due to maintenance effort. MRP110 Dark Green applied. Marbled then blended. Masking removed.
  20. ID Stripes. I'm doing a RAF SEAC scheme with Dark Earth/Dark Green/Med Sea Gray camo. This scheme will also be used when I get to my 1:32 TAM Mossie, hopefully before the apocalypse. Another element which drew me to this scheme are the white ID Bands. No only for the look but for the challenge to replicate. Using MRP 135 White the ID Bands are first marbled. The cowling got some ID Band love as well. Then blended. The camera really blew up the white, it's not that solid. After full paint cure I mask the ID Bands.
  21. one of my favorite Cold War aircraft. great finish on this.
  22. Closing things up. Fuselage buttoned up and wings glued in place. A little sanding and scribing. Masking cockpit and wheel wells complete and little more surface prep. After breaking blast tubes off multiple times I've folded some paper and taped to tings to protect further breakage. Black from the attack. After primer Gunze Finishing Surfacer 1500 Black cures will begin masking for ID bands.
×
×
  • Create New...