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Out2gtcha

F-104D Starfighter - 57-1315 - AFFTC Edwards AFB, 1960

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I actually got to see a west German F-104 fly over while stationed in Germany during the late 80's.  Sunofagun that was loud.  maybe 500 feet up and 600(?) Knots....it was awesome!

 

I love watching you build and enjoy learning new tricks along the way.  Keep up the fascinating work!

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Thanks Dan!  This is proving a bit more difficult to pull all together than I first thought. However, there are a lot of possibilities with this model and setup, so I hope to forge ahead and get some of the unknowns figured out before proceeding. 

 

Cheers all! 

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Well crud boys...................

 

I was all excited last night, as I got really far with scratching up a Paillard Bolex 16mm movie camera, including the 3 very cool looking rotating lenses!   

 

Then, I went to snap a couple of pics of my work..................

 

BOOM.  No love on the cell phone camera:

 

"Camera / Camera App has stopped working"

 

"Android.process.media has stopped"

 

 

So looks like no picture updates for a bit til I figure that out. Ive read up a bit, and there are some cash clearing, and some other things Im going to try in line with what Ive read for the specific fixes for my phone, so until then 

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2 hours ago, Out2gtcha said:

 

"Camera / Camera App has stopped working"

 

"Android.process.media has stopped"

 

Should have bought an iPhone ;) 

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1 hour ago, AnthonyWan said:

Should have bought an iPhone ;) 

 

The day I ever buy another apple product is the same day you can come over to my house and remove my head with pliers, because its a body double and definitely not me. 

 

1 hour ago, Fvdm said:

Bummer. Good luck trying fixing it.

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

 

Were all fixed up!

 

Twas my own fault. My Galaxy is an older "Edge 7" Galaxy about 3 or more years old, with the cool wrap around screen and has been through two Easter Jeep Safaris in Moab Utah, dropped multiple times, and stood up to every bit of abuse I've thrown at it. But when the camera started shutting down randomly I did some research............

 

Long story short,  after trying everything that was recommended to do to fix the issue, I finally figured out that although I do have automatic updates turned on, apparently back in October of last year I was about to do an update but for whatever reason I manually postponed it (maybe too low on battery or more likely no WiFi). This effectively prevented every other update since October of last year from being installed.  

 

 Known bug in the software apparently was fixed, because  after I DLed and installed five different full separate updates, the phone camera is back and working. Ill try to take some pics tonight. 

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21 hours ago, Out2gtcha said:

 

The day I ever buy another apple product is the same day you can come over to my house and remove my head with pliers, because its a body double and definitely not me. 

 

LOL 

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Brian,

 

Maybe I can help with the electronics, as part of my job involves developing little doo-hickeys of the type you bought.  There may be a way to discreetly power your devices.

 

First, let me ask - do you know the current draw of all of your components together?  I want to know how much amperage you're consuming, though I suspect it's in the milliamp range.  Your vendor should be able to tell you that, or (if you need) I can show you how to get a reading.  By the way - do NOT power LEDs with 9V when they're supposed to use 6V.  You'll just turn them into SEDs - smoke emitting devices.

 

I'm thinking 24 or higher gauge wire, leading from either a battery pack, or preferably, a 6V switching power supply that will provide all the current you'll ever need, without any worries about running out of juice.

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Thanks Mark,

Actually after engaging the manufacturer, they indicated a 9v was a good power supply, and it reads a 9v power supply is a viable supply, indicated in the written instructions too, right on the cover.

 

Magic Scale Modeling indicated any listed power source from from 4.1v to 10v is good, siting 4 rechargeable AAs, 4  non- rechargeable AAs, 9v, to a USB power connection is good.

 

MSM even indicated they could supply a 9v supply for their kit, but I already have one I'm going to experiment with.

 

The 9v is definitely the way to go if I'm going to make it all self contained inside the model itself as I've come to the realization that although 4 AAs work really well, I will not have room inside the model to use them, no matter the configuration. I will need to run wires externally if I I use 4 AAs, which I really dont eant to do.

 

The power actually doesn't run directly to the LEDs, but rather to a small circuit board designed by MSM to take the 4.1v to 10v power source which controls the sequences and lighting type (always on, flashing, or fading).

 

The power leads to the circuit board are very tiny, as are all the nano leads as with the overall amount of wires in the kit, it would be near impossible to run them all inside if they were much bigger.

 

I had reservations about a 9v source too, even after reading it on the cover of their instructions, so wrote them a note just to confirm a 9v is a good source. The only thing MSM indicated was the animation time was a bit less with the 9v VS the 4 AAs.

 

AAMOF, I just got a new bare bones 9v holder in, so this holiday weekend will be spent on the 104 (I'm on call for work, so cant really go anywhere anyway)

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OK Brian, gotcha.  So the power feeds to a regulator which then goes out.

 

Here's a thought: would it be possible for you to drill a hole through the center of the stand?  That way, you can run wires very discreetly up its length, and have an electrical plug on the end.  This would connect to a receptacle inside the model's exhaust (hidden up inside).  I'm thinking something like a phone jack.  When you put the plane on the stand, the system has power.  The power can then be any size you like, as it's no longer crammed inside the model.

 

I'm thinking a simple shaft all the way down, to fit the wires.  There may even be a way to paint the shaft, so you don't see the wires.  Something like the orange you're using, which would look like a design feature.

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On 5/23/2019 at 2:26 PM, Out2gtcha said:

 

The day I ever buy another apple product is the same day you can come over to my house and remove my head with pliers, because its a body double and definitely not me. 

 

LoL me and you brother!! 

 

At work we started a project that required mac development.. so when i told swmbo that i was training myself on using a mac i got punched!!

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Thanks again for stopping in on me and taking the time to comment. It all helps with motivation!!! 

 

On 5/24/2019 at 6:28 PM, Mark_C said:

Here's a thought: would it be possible for you to drill a hole through the center of the stand?  That way, you can run wires very discreetly up its length, and have an electrical plug on the end.  This would connect to a receptacle inside the model's exhaust (hidden up inside).  I'm thinking something like a phone jack.  When you put the plane on the stand, the system has power.  The power can then be any size you like, as it's no longer crammed inside the model.

 

Actually Mark, in normal circumstances, that probably would be the ideal set-up and is currently the set-up that MSM recommends. 

 

There are some issues with the power in the base w/wires running up the base here at work if Im going to display the model in flight with the plan I initially came up with however:

 

1 - The base will be black acrylic (hopefully if the company can drill a 40 deg hole successfully, otherwise its back to wood) but the actual rod that will support the entire model is a 7/8" clear acrylic rod that will not only support the entire model, it will also act as a simulated exhaust:

 

20190507_070307-XL.jpg

 

 

Drilling through the center of it would not only spoil the exhaust effect as a big LED will be firing down the middle of it, (it will need the clear acrylic to fire light through) but drilling a perfectly centered hold in a clear rod is problematic to say the least.

 

I've also thought about running the very dainty wires up along side, or better yet under the acrylic rod, but that leads me to my second problem........

 

 

2 - The model when completed will be nearly 21" long from exhaust to pitot tube, and with a 40 deg angle to the base, it will be 17+" tall.

Even with  2" give-or-take of clear rod out the back adding to that, the model will be very tall, and ungainly when done, so I really need to be able to remove it from its base for shows and competitions.

This will be nearly impossible with any connected wires from the base to the model, even having plugs on them, as Id not like to take a chance on stretching or breaking them each time I went to remove the model from  the stand.

For wire connectivity, I normally use connectors they use in the 1/10th scale R/C car world, as they are super small, and have a very positive connection. "Deans Plugs" normally work very good for this type of application as they are super small (about 5mm by 8 mm or smaller) and you cant get the connection backwards:

 

dean-t-plug-y-wire-harness-t-plug-series

 

 

 

Quote

 

I'm thinking a simple shaft all the way down, to fit the wires.  There may even be a way to paint the shaft, so you don't see the wires.  Something like the orange you're using, which would look like a design feature.

 

 

What I think I will end up doing is using the 9v internal power supply (which will definitely fit after dry fit trials last night - yay!) which will be fully removable, held on with a tab on one end and rare earth magnets on the other, along with a switch to turn it all on via a hidden trick (to come later). 

 

I will also mount a permanent 7/8" tube inside the rear fuselage that will also contain the LED for the exhaust, as well as allow the acrylic rod to be slipped up inside and fit snugly in there, and also be removable without having any wires what-so-ever to deal with. 

The whole model will be 100% self contained and powered! 

 

More in a minute.................

 

 

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Since I did not have the 9v battery holder to experiment with until last night, I forged on with something a bit different that needed to be scratched up. That is the Paillard Bolex 16mm moving camera the back seater will have.

 

h16reflex_1+230x290.jpg

 

 

 

Here is a very basic start to it:

 

20190525_205046-XL.jpg

 

20190525_205101-XL.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

All just basic initial shapes at this point.  Here you can see how it will fit into the observers left hand. The camera will be on the observers lap, or possibly lightly above it, as his other arm will be raised to the canopy with a clenched fist in excitement! 

 

20190525_205139-XL.jpg

 

20190525_205148-XL.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Still much MUCH more re-shaping, refining and adding of details to the camera yet. I also know its a bit over-scale, but with the details I want to add it cant be helped.

Here is the front triple lens pack that will eventually go on the front (sorry about the photo quality, these things are TINY). Eventually, these will all get "lenses" out of UV gel and some Future:

 

20190525_205318-XL.jpg

 

20190525_205405-XL.jpg

 

 

 

 

20190525_205414-XL.jpg

 

20190525_205441-XL.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Finally for this small update, here is the very minimalist 9v holder. I specifically chose this style, as it has the least amount of material around the battery. After fit trials, this I think will work!:

 

20190525_224449-XL.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

All for now, as the next step is to do another full lighting test with all lights hooked up to the new power source, to find out if it works like I hope its going to.  After that I can start figuring out how I want to mount it all inside, along with the switch. 

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