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Thunnus

1/32 Tamiya F4U-1a Corsair - Boyington's 17740

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My June is still heavily booked with family obligations.  My youngest just graduated from high school and we'll be taking a family trip to the Eastern Sierras this weekend.  And then driving up to NoCal next weekend.  So not much modeling until next month probably.

 

I had some time to glue the wings to the fuselage.  As typical on this kit, the fit is amazingly good.

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Since I'm planning on leaving the wings removable, I'm very close to the painting stage.  So I'm playing around with some pre/post-shading techniques using a Scotch Brite pad and splatter painting templates.

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Hi John!

 

The model looks great . Since i'm working on my 3rd Birdcage, a couple of observations about the landing gear......if you haven't already discovered this yourself.

 

The fit of the main gear is positive. I mean, REALLY positive. As In, once it goes in it doesn't want to come out. I found the tolerances in fit are really affected by paint buildup on the attachment pins and flanges. Also, the structural weak point of the gear is at the bottom of the strut where the lover part/ axle makes the slight outward bend. Just be really careful how many times you put in/ pull out the main gear struts. Those metal reinforcement rods are great and the struts really need them.

 

The so called "Spade Doors" also have a positive fit but i recommend leaving them off until the struts are installed and the proper "Rake" of the struts has been checked. There should be a piece of flexible rubber strip at the top of the spade door that meets with the lower skin, but installing that might be more trouble than its worth. When the spade door is installed, the clearance between the inner wall of the tyre and the edge of the door is just slightly wider than a #2 pencil. VERY close tolerances on that.

 

Finally, over time the post on my short-tail wheel FG-1 has sheared, while bringing it home from Phoenix. If its not too late i suggest replacing the post with an equivalent piece of brass rod, and if its not visible, you might want to extend the rod into the upper part of the tailwheel. The hard rubber tyre distorted a LOT under weight and its hard to put just the right flat spot on it, if it spins on its axle.

 

Hope this helps.

 

-d-

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Thanks guys!

 

5 hours ago, David Hansen said:

Hi John!

 

The model looks great . Since i'm working on my 3rd Birdcage, a couple of observations about the landing gear......if you haven't already discovered this yourself.

 

The fit of the main gear is positive. I mean, REALLY positive. As In, once it goes in it doesn't want to come out. I found the tolerances in fit are really affected by paint buildup on the attachment pins and flanges. Also, the structural weak point of the gear is at the bottom of the strut where the lover part/ axle makes the slight outward bend. Just be really careful how many times you put in/ pull out the main gear struts. Those metal reinforcement rods are great and the struts really need them.

 

The so called "Spade Doors" also have a positive fit but i recommend leaving them off until the struts are installed and the proper "Rake" of the struts has been checked. There should be a piece of flexible rubber strip at the top of the spade door that meets with the lower skin, but installing that might be more trouble than its worth. When the spade door is installed, the clearance between the inner wall of the tyre and the edge of the door is just slightly wider than a #2 pencil. VERY close tolerances on that.

 

Finally, over time the post on my short-tail wheel FG-1 has sheared, while bringing it home from Phoenix. If its not too late i suggest replacing the post with an equivalent piece of brass rod, and if its not visible, you might want to extend the rod into the upper part of the tailwheel. The hard rubber tyre distorted a LOT under weight and its hard to put just the right flat spot on it, if it spins on its axle.

 

Hope this helps.

 

-d-

 

Thanks for additional insights, David!  I noticed the tight fit of the main landing gear legs and had trouble removing one of the legs but luckily I was able to work it loose without damage.  I will most likely avoid any more fitting of the gear legs until it is time to attach them permanently.  I'll take another look at the tail gear... it would probably not be too difficult to replace the plastic post with brass rod since the tail is not yet permanently attached.

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