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Tamiya F-15C Kicked Up A Notch- Dec 1/17: DONE!


chuck540z3

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Nice one tempting to do the same on mine but I'm having a hard time in my head to explain to myself I need this to be done LOL....I was kinda hoping I could add small strips on top with holes punched in them so I could mimmik the holes in there....mmmmmm

 

noticed it too in regard to the clear part and canopy rail. You confirmed what I was thinking sanding paper to the rescue it is then....good trick on the tape, but I was planning using metal self adhesive tape or maybe my thin pewter i have in the stash we'll see....I always admire your work sir looking forward to the next update

 

Cheers

Fred

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thanks

 

Nice one tempting to do the same on mine but I'm having a hard time in my head to explain to myself I need this to be done LOL....I was kinda hoping I could add small strips on top with holes punched in them so I could mimmik the holes in there....mmmmmm

 

noticed it too in regard to the clear part and canopy rail. You confirmed what I was thinking sanding paper to the rescue it is then....good trick on the tape, but I was planning using metal self adhesive tape or maybe my thin pewter i have in the stash we'll see....I always admire your work sir looking forward to the next update

 

Cheers

Fred

 

 

Thanks Fred.  I was thinking of using other tapes, but they are all a bit too thick for scale to my eye.  Looking forward to your build, because I'm always looking for tips myself.

 

Cheers,

Chuck

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Chuck, when i see your updates it`s like a holiday :). Very nice upgrades on the canopy frame. How you plan to imitate the sealing contours under the frame, the white ones? In my opinion, a long and thinner stripe from that Tamiya tape should work very well...  :rolleyes: :)

 

 

Good question Milan!  I'm thinking very thin lead wire, which I've used before.  We'll see.

 

As for the canopy, it will need some more Tamiya vinyl tape for the rear of the canopy, aft of the center line.

 

Cheers,

Chuck

Edited by chuck540z3
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Love what yer doin' here Chuck, even if it is a pointy nosed kerosene burner! One of these years I'm going to have to try me one. I have an Academy kit that I'll do as a CF-118 with 50th anniversary of NORAD markings. Got to learn me a whole new language when doing a jet.

 

Fantastic work Bro!

 

Cheers,

Wolf

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Love what yer doin' here Chuck, even if it is a pointy nosed kerosene burner! One of these years I'm going to have to try me one. I have an Academy kit that I'll do as a CF-118 with 50th anniversary of NORAD markings. Got to learn me a whole new language when doing a jet.

 

Fantastic work Bro!

 

Cheers,

Wolf

Thanks Wolf! When you start your Canuck Hornet, I have a build thread that you might be interested in showing all the changes between the F-18 and CF-118 versions. I think Academy makes an actual F-18A kit now, so much of this will already be covered with this newer kit. Link to the major changes are below. The formatting of the text was corrupted after an ARC server crash, but you should still be able to figure out what I'm trying to explain.

 

1/32 Academy CF-18B Kicked Up a Notch

 

 

CF-18B-1.jpg

 

Shoot me an email if you have any questions.

 

Cheers,

Chuck

Edited by chuck540z3
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Thanks Chek, Great discussion!

 

The C's Alway had the 220 engine form the start of production. The 100's of the A's were upgraded but the cost and the space problems in the engine bay led to the A's being retires in favor of the C's. Only the Israelis have spent the time and money to basically rebuild their A/B's as C/D's to take the upgraded engine and additional fuel capacity. Please keep in mind that on these types of discussions, I look at things as a historian and researcher, but I ma not a Mechanic, Chef, etc.

C models had 100s at the start of production. Eglin got screwed twice converting to 220s and then giving away their jets to other wings.
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Thanks Guys!

 

 

July 27/16

 

I was working on the canopy while the landing gear dried, so now I have some results of my earlier work.  Before I show my work, let's take a look at some pics of the real deal to get an idea of how the landing gear should look.

 

There has been much discussion on how much wider the F-15E tires are than the F-15C, but at 1/32 scale, I think the differences are mice nuts and not much to worry about.  As we know, the landing gear for this kit is really made for the F-15E kit, including the tires, so resin replacements have been made, like the “Parts R Parts†ones I showed earlier in this thread.  After some research, I think they look too skinny.  Here are the tires on an F-15E, although they are a bit obscured by all the pylons, etc.

 

 

F-15E%20Wheel.jpg

 

 

Here are the tires on my subject F-15C Aggressor.  They are a bit narrower, but the real difference is with the shoulder of the tire, which is tapered and not squared off like the Strike Eagle.  Note also the cant of the landing gear outwards.

 

 

Gear%20Align1_1.jpg

 

 

The tires are tilted as well, but slightly less than the angle of the gear leg.

 

 

Gear%20Align2_1.jpg

 

 

Parked Eagles have most of the gear doors closed, so much of the detail within the gear well is not visible.  Note also the shiny tires, slicked up for the Air Show crowd.

 

 

Gear%20Align4_1.jpg

 

 

And lastly the wheel and tire on my subject bird.  Note the blue hub caps and those little metal plates.  I don't know what they are for, but some wheels have 2 or 3 of them.  Weights maybe?

 

 

Gear%20Align3_1.jpg

 

As shown earlier, Gary at GT Resin has a new line of wheels and tires for both the F-15C and F-15E kits.  I got a set of both Goodyear and Michelin “Aviator†tires to compare the 2, since I have pics of my bird with both tires (depending on year the pic was taken), as shown in the 2 pics above.

 

 

GT%20Resin%20wheels1.jpg

 

 

I prefer the Aviator tire, because it has more of a tapered shoulder to the tread, just like the pics above.   What is really cool about this resin set is that the inner brake, wheel and tire all come separate- and the tires are already black!  You really don't need to paint the tires, but I gave them a little shot of black lacquer to darken the sides, while sanding the tread and adding some pastels to give them a bit of a worn look.   After the modifications made to the landing gear earlier, some wiring and some paint, here are the main components.  I applied very little of a weathering wash, since these birds tend to be kept pretty clean.

 

 

MainGear1.jpg

 

 

 

When assembled- all friction fit- I think they look really good in person, so I hope this translates into these pics.  Let's re-visit what all the kit parts looked like earlier.

 

 

Before:

 

Landing%20Gear1.jpg

 

 

And now after a ton of work.  The blue hubcaps look a lot darker in these pics than they do in real life.

 

 

MainGear2.jpg

 

 

 

MainGear3.jpg

Edited by chuck540z3
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MainGear4.jpg

 

 

 

Those tiny blue wheel hubs were a BEAR to mask off and paint properly!

 

 

 

MainGear5.jpg

 

 

According to Jake's book and other references, the rear of the wheels are not so pretty, with lots of brake dust and a greasy look.

 

 

 

MainGear6.jpg

 

 

 

As shown earlier, these landing gear assemblies are now “Plug ‘n Play†into the gear wells at the end of the build.

 

 

 

MainGear7.jpg

 

 

The nose landing gear turned out pretty good too if I do say so myself.  I should mention that I used the kit parts for the wheel and tire, since they look terrific OOB.

 

 

NoseGear1.jpg

 

NoseGear2.jpg

 

 

And like the main gear, it is also “Plug ‘n Play†for the end of the build.  Note that the gear door covers much of the front strut.

 

 

NoseGear3.jpg

 

 

 

That's it for now boys.  I will be going on a short vacation, then I will finish off the canopy and windscreen.  With the 3 “Biggies†out of the way (Cockpit, Canopy and Landing Gear), the rest of this build should pick up some speed!

 

 

Cheers,

Chuck

Edited by chuck540z3
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