1/32 Hasegawa P-40E

[James Rademaker]

Good evening guys,

  I have just purchased my first 1/32 Hasegawa P-40E and am looking forward to building it. I have one question regarding the clear plastic aft of the cockpit (parts Y3&4).  I know they have to be mask the inside and outside before gluing. My question is which glue have you used to place them together? I know that after I’d have to sand the top of the parts to smooth the two parts. Will Tamiya liquid glue “fog “ up the inside after Future? Super glue? 

Id appreciate any suggestions,

Jim

[LSP_Ray]

You will want to use an acrylic glue so it doesn't affect the clear parts.

I have used good old Elmer's before, also Gator Glue.

Ammo has one.

Microscale Krystal Klear I have also used.

 

Just need to try a couple and see which one you like.

[ScottsGT]

I’m building my second kit right now.  I used Tamiya thin cement with no issues at all.  I only taped the outside, sprayed interior green first the the outer color.  I find no need to tape up the inside.  If you do want the frames to appear painted inside, tape up, spray, untape the glue to the fuselage.  
1st build. 

 

 

current project. K model

I glued the rear glass on the next morning after the interior green dried. 

[CRAZY IVAN5]

I've used Revell Contacta clear parts glue , works a treat. 

[Phantom2]

I used the Tamiya Thin, no problems at all as the TT hardly makes any fumes.

 

I masked the windows (outside), using masks from eduard and masked off the whole inside with tape, painted the interior color, removed the inside mask, glued the parts to the fuselage, sanded where needed, stuffed some foam under the windows and painted the whole aircraft as normal.

 

Works perfect for me on almost all clear parts (very sparingly applied of course...).

 

Stefan.  

Edited February 21 by Phantom2

[dennismcc]

I used to use CA for clear parts but made sure that the parts had been coated in Klear to prevent fogging, but these days I use Micro Kristal Klear, as it is a lot friendlier to use in case of mistakes, it dries clear and any excess can be wiped off with a dampened cotton bud.

 

Cheeers

 

Dennis

[Pete Roberts]

I find PVA works well with canopies. Its water soluble, so can be cleaned up with a cotton bud (Q-tip to our US friends) and fills gaps. It gives a good solid join too.

[ScottsGT]

I did leave something out.  Like others said, I usually use Evergreen canopy glue on most clear parts, which is a PVA but dries quicker and has more of a flexible cure.   On the P-40 models I use the Tamiya glue because that is a joint that needs to be blended into the plastic and possibly putty used.  I know one side of the rear glass where it meets the fuselage had a hair thin gap that I filled with sprue goo.  
Using PBA would have filled the gap, but putty won’t stick to it.  And if the gap is flush not needing putty, the glue joint would be painfully obvious after painting.  
With the design of the Hasegawa P-40, there is plenty of area around the actual clear part where you can blend the seams.  

[James Rademaker]

Thanks guys, I appreciate your feedback.

Jim

[James Rademaker]

Last question, using PBA or Kristal Clear, can the seam be sanded smooth when dry? 
 

Jim

[Pete Roberts]

PVA cannot be sanded. but it can be smoothed before drying with a wet brush or cotton bud (Q-tip).

 

Edit: I should say, any gaps I have encountered when fitting canopies are not huge, so the PVA is more than sufficient usually.

Edited February 21 by Pete Roberts

[James Rademaker]

Thanks for the feedback.

Jim

[Paul2660]

Also consider Ammo by MIg Ultra Glue.  It' what I use now for all clear parts.  It can also be thinned with water to the viscosity you need.  Works great all clear parts as it dries totally clear.  Also works very well on PE parts depending on where they fit on the model.  

 

Paul 

[LSP_Kevin]

5 minutes ago, Paul2660 said:

Also consider Ammo by MIg Ultra Glue.

 

It's what I use and recommend, too.

 

Kev

[phasephantomphixer]

7 hours ago, James Rademaker said:

Thanks guys, I appreciate your feedback.

Jim

Agree using a white or clear glue with right amount to fill after wiping with damp cotton swab,

PLUS don't forget to paint the edges of clear part so it doesn't look like a clear model part (keeps the light from bouncing around).