AdamR

Tamiya Spitfire 1/32 every time, it is by far the best. Mk IXc or MkVIII, or MkXVI

My word!  
 
Astonishingly ambitious project. Thanks for letting us watch.

I have always wanted to do this project and now being able to draw and print in 3D it makes things more inviting to me than scratch building.
I plan to cover the airframe with embossed(rivets)aluminum and leave it "Bare Metal", Hopefully....
The parts are as large as I can print on my printer which is a Anycibic Photon Mono X. I printed the airframe parts with relatively thin skin, .030, so that it won't get too bulky with the aluminum skin applied to the surface. I hope to be able to use a fairly heavy primer on the interior surface so that I can spray a bare metal finish to the interior of the bombardier/navigator's compartment and the area below the flight deck.
I plan on installing the "cheek" gun positions but I have had difficulty trying to draw them for printing, I want to print them as vacuum form patterns so that I can pull clear petg for the windows but I also want to form the aluminum skin over the same pattern for the clear piece to live under and add the assembly to the airframe.
 
Pat

 
 

Nice work.
 
How did you like the kit? I’m just finished with the cockpit on mine, and I’ve found the parts fit engineering vague and the mold quality only fair at best, with lots of flash and some mold lines that are "stepped." I know Revell can do better at this price point, because I’ve built their new-tool Spitfire Mk IIa and found it superior to this kit. 

Hello Adam, I really liked this new Revell kit because the adjustments are good.
 And yes on the other hand, the finish of the parts is very poor and you have to clean a lot!
 It is also missing, and this is an error on this scale these days, the riveting of the whole thing.
 Thanks for stopping by
 
 

Hello everyone, one of my last projects done this year.
 Some extras for this assembly, resin wheels, a Yahu board, fabric harnesses and stencils for the National emblems.
 I did some riveting and added some wire and tubing.
 

 
See you soon

I don't really want anything we don't have.  I just want all of those turkeys made by Trumpeter to be replaced by correct versions made by someone else.

As I tend to use a fair amount of CA I use and industrial brand Krylex (normally have a 20gm on the workbench and a 50gm in the workshop) try to keep cool ,frig if possible.
I have mentioned this before but the standard Krylex KB014 sands just like plastic or resin making it perfect for modelling.
I use my resin supplier Neills Materials https://www.neillsmaterials.co.uk/ for all my stuff like that.
 
I've been dealing with Justin (Neills Materials) for just over 25 years as we both started our companies on the same day 25 years ago !!
 
Bob

I prefer Mercury Adhesives CA, because they have a metal pin in the cap that keeps them sealed and prevents the cap from getting cemented on.  I always buy the smallest bottles I can as CA usually only has a shelf life of about a year.

@Woody V
That looks like a good idea. I will give that a try. Thanks.

You're right. Many CA glues lose their strength when stored. However, as far as I know, this is applicable for opened bottles. I have used dozens of brands and never had a similar issue with a brand new bottle.

I have gone the same route as Woody. I buy the 1 gram tubes. If I don't finish it before it hardens, I haven't lost much.
 Also as to storage; keep your stock refrigerated. Greatly increases shelf life.

I don't use a lot of CA and my biggest problem is the stuff dries out if I don't use it after the first time. Then I found this.
Also comes in a thin version.
 

Blasphemy!! ... A Buchon is NOT a 109 ... It needs to have a fuel injected, super charged inverted V12 Daimler Benz, to be a 109 ...
A Buchon is an abomination.
 
Rog

Nice score!
Comparatively, the Tamiya F4U is to the Trumpeter F4U, what a Chevrolet Chevette is to a Bugatti Veyron.
 
 
Go to your very first post where you made the title, and edit the post. Then click on the title area and you should be able to edit the title from there.

I have been testing these with Ray, so have some observations too...
 
I made up a sheet for my P40 cockpit
 

 
and close ups..
 

 

 
in terms of observations:
 
1. It means he can do one offs really easily - so with normal silk screen decals his minimum order is 25 x A4 sheets, with this subject to having usable layered vector artwork he can just run off a copy just like that so it adds versatility
 
2. There is a slight graininess to the decal, but even for the super fine stuff he does for me it works, it also curls more than a usual decal so needs a little more care in use
 
3. It cannot be used for stencils, so if you see above there are some elements that are just white text - these won't work because as soon as it hits water, all the individual characters will seperate as there is no carrier film holding them together
 
4. i would say for superfine work like the instrument stuff I use it for, the resolution is slightly less than silk screen (which goes down to 0.06mm line definition)
 
It is however, a very useful addition to his capability, as I say, particularly for one offs, it's just a shame that the one area where you don't want carrier film like stencils, is the one area it can't cope with
 
Peter

Masking carries its own set of problems as well, so I can see a very handy place for this type of decal. Looking forward to seeing your review, Iain.
 
Cheers,
Damian

Yes, you'll need to align by eye, or with suitable marking out.
 
But that's needed anyway of you are making up serials/codes from more traditional decals?
 
Iain

Isn’t the lack of a new-design 1/32 WW2 kit from Hasegawa more troubling? As others have pointed out, the out-of-production kits will be available on eBay for a while, but where’s a new Hellcat? Hurricane? Etc.? If it is true that Hasegawa has abandoned LSPs, it is a tragedy.

Regarding the ROI (return of investment) in re-releasing kits, I would have thought that posed minimal risk given the bulk of the cost is in design and mould making which would have been absorbed in the initial release. As for competing kits, given a choice between a Hasegawa P-40 or a Trumpeter P-40, I'd pick the Hasegawa kit. The same is true for the 109F-4 or P-47. Then again, maybe I'm missing something.

1 enormous box:


…full of nice plastic stuff (beautiful clear parts), and…

 
…more PE stuff than I will ever use, plus…


 
…printed gun barrels (my first experience with parts made this way)…


 
…all for building 1 of 5 different AVG subjects,  and lastly…


 
…a big-ass commemorative patch to sew on something.

 
I can hardly wait to get started, but I’m going to be disciplined and finish the Revell P-51D first. No, really, I am.  Seriously. Not kidding. Disciplined.
 

1 enormous box:


…full of nice plastic stuff (beautiful clear parts), and…

 
…more PE stuff than I will ever use, plus…


 
…printed gun barrels (my first experience with parts made this way)…


 
…all for building 1 of 5 different AVG subjects,  and lastly…


 
…a big-ass commemorative patch to sew on something.

 
I can hardly wait to get started, but I’m going to be disciplined and finish the Revell P-51D first. No, really, I am.  Seriously. Not kidding. Disciplined.
 

Thanks. I don’t mind the delay that much, because my modeling time has been cut short anyway, and the Revell P-51 has languished on the bench. I do mind being charged for goods months before they were shipped. 
 
Thanks for pointing me to the build threads; they will be very helpful. It’s especially useful to know in advance that the PE is poor, for example. It supports my plan to "dumb down" the build. The most important thing to me is having the early P-40 outline on the shelf (underslung "jaw" radiator, cowl .50s, etc.). A highly detailed model is not my goal with this one. I will probably build the closed cowl version and leave the engine parts on the trees. There are a lot of kits in the stash I want to get built and I’m running out of years to get them done! 

Déjà vu 

1 enormous box:


…full of nice plastic stuff (beautiful clear parts), and…

 
…more PE stuff than I will ever use, plus…


 
…printed gun barrels (my first experience with parts made this way)…


 
…all for building 1 of 5 different AVG subjects,  and lastly…


 
…a big-ass commemorative patch to sew on something.

 
I can hardly wait to get started, but I’m going to be disciplined and finish the Revell P-51D first. No, really, I am.  Seriously. Not kidding. Disciplined.