KUROK

evening folks - hope all are well
 
thanks for stopping by and giving me a boost...
 
 
 
Brian - this build is for you - we are brothers in our adoration for the 'cat. Thanks for hooking me up with Norm Stubbs, he has sent some amazing stuff from the F7F technical manual
 
..also hooked up with the owner of N6178C 'Hello Kitty' and he has been checking in and giving me some guidance - including this rather cool cockpit panoramic..
 
 
 
 
Hi Craig - I feel the same about your early B17 - incredible to watch. The engine is drawn at real size in Rhino though I have a separate file I am working on for the cylinders where I made them bigger so I can scale them down later.. the cocktail stick handle was just shaped with needle files - a round one to create the depression and a flat one to cut into the stick where it would ultimately be cut from the body..
 
so, a few bits done in the last few days.. I wanted to get the rear part of the cockpit switch console finished..
 
..this bit on the right behind the main switchbox... it has some detail and a bunch of wiring & pipework beneath it
 

 
..I made up some of the parts including pipe unions and the mounting for the big handle which is for dropping the landing gear in an emergency..
 

 
..used a spare PE console to make the base this all sits on as it needs to be dropped into the cockpit as one, I can't just mount it onto the floor...
 

 
..a shot of interior green...
 

 
..added the pipework - it all looks a bit pissed (as we say in the UK) now I look at it closely...
 

 
..added some wiring bundles to the switchbox - these were stripped out of an old laptop - I just battered it with a hammer & took some bits I thought might be useful one day - it turns out the bundle that connects the screen to the keyboard is full of ultra small scale wires
 

 
..still need to finish it, but this is where I am at..
 

 

 

 

 
..back soon...
 
TTFN
Peter

Wow!  This is off the chain!
Amazing!!!

Thank you, Gentlemen for all of your GREAT! words.
 
The engine compartment took a real beating this go-round.  I'm just glad I know where everything goes and! how to make it.  'Cause I'll need to make a lot of it again to re-finish the engine compartment.  But no worries on that.
 
Oil and coolant lines.

Test-fitting a coolant line.  This coolant line has a tab that attaches to a base molded into the side wall.  It is also attached to the pump which is in turn attached to the engine bottom.  I left it as is for now until I sort out the engine connection.  With the engine in place and it on the engine there wasn't a lot of room in which to work.  The coolant line from just behind the pump broke off so I have to sort that out too.  Black marker notation is so I know this side tie-ins are CCC: Coolant Coolant Coolant.
 

Coolant line with heat shrink tube ties in to firewall.  Curved line is an oil line.  It needs to bend upward into the bottom of the Oil Tank.  I'm waiting until many things are completed before I remove the engine mount tab and tie it in.  Notation is COO: Coolant, on the outside, 2 Oil lines.  Working on this upside down with the drawings right-side-up necessitated the notations.  Otherwise I WOULD do it backwards.
 

Right side up.  Coolant Oil Oil.  All lines pin-mount into wheel well lines.  The heat shrink tube on the exposed pin mount line is a slip cover.
 

Inner drilled hole is for the Supercharger Intercooler connection.  I need to make that as Tamiya didn't supply the part or detail of it.  Maybe I can use something from the Spitfire extras.  I'll see.  Next drilled hole is from the Intercooler Pump.  That would be the red insulation line found on the left side of engine.  Coolant line with slip cover.  I needed to modify this piece of HST to fit over the tab.  I need the tab for now to support the part, but once the pump is glued to the engine I'm hoping I can modify the location to remove the tab and mount.
 
Thank you.
Sincerely,
Mark

Hello,
 
Today I've painted cockpit:

Yeah, looks really cool.
 
BTW, I ordered one of these Giant F-22 playsets off of Amazon for about $40.
 
I've been inspired by your project.

KUROK
 
I do not use the pre-shading but the post-shading. Have I remembered several times to increase a little the difference between the colors adding more white to color for the lights but ... With the application of clears the shading tends to fade a bit. The camera is good (Canon EOS 450D) but the photographer is a disgrace. But the shading is still there.  

 
Regards
 
ajcmac

Thank you all for following and commenting   .
 

And is finished only missing piece. The sight that comes in the kit do not like anything and is not glued. I'll try to get one in PE.
 


 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I hope you enjoy.
 
Regards
 
ajcmac

Fishtail/normal P-40 exhausts for the Has kit, and some Mosquito exhausts for the new KH kit would be SPECTACULAR.

Thanks a lot
 
I've finally get Quickboost ejection seat. I tried to make the cockpit as good as I can but I think it's not good at all. Well...It's my first scratchbuilt cockpit...

1/32 SR-71 Blackbird

Neo, when i paint with alclad i normally paint panel by panel in different shades of metal color, it is a pain in the ....... but the finish is more real than painting the hole airplane in one shade of metal,  here is a small update, in this pictures you can see why i paint the yellow bands first, so i can use the black base color around the yellow and when you pass your finger over it you dont fell the steps of the paint as when you paint it over the alclad, hope you like this pictures
 

 

 

XB-70 in 1/32.
 

Hello,
 
I forgot how weak I am whet it comes to wiring. I always have problems with glueing wires etc. I'm not a detail/rivet counter but I see that bays below are somehow...empty. Maybe I'll try to make more wires in different sizes. Additional details are parts of some computer plugs.

Painted underside with Tamiya XF-53 Neutral Grey
 


 
Hopefully in the coming days I should be able to do upper surfaces.
 
Alberto

Nice work Leo! Creative fix for the tail plug too.
 
Kev

Interesting pre-shading technique with the mottling.  Looking forward to seeing her finished - despite being a diehard Spitfire fan I have a soft spot for the P-40 in all its guises.

Having built the HK Models B-17G a year or so ago and thoroughly enjoyed the process, I've decided it was about time to build another!
 
This time I'm going to finish it as a modern-day 'Warbird' - I was thinking about building the YAM's 'Yankee Lady' as I went for a flight in her in 2012, but the thought of all that gleaming aluminium had me running scared.
 
Instead I've gone for the EAA's Aluminium Overcast which is painted silver, and therefore far less of a headache to achieve a decent finish. (picture used for illustrative purposes only)
 

 
This kit will need some modifying to bring up to 'warbird' standard as it's moulded as a late-war B-17G complete with all combat equipment. Therefore, some of the combat equipment will be left out of this build, and unlike wartime B-17s, will be painted interior green - most warbirds are painted in this way to prevent corrosion. I'll also be making the rear passenger seats for the waist areas as well as two extra seats on the flightdeck.
 
Decals have been sourced from KitsWorld: http://www.kitsworld.co.uk/index.php?CATEGORY=3&SUB=1&THISPAGE=1&RADIOSORT=4&PICFILE=373&STKNR=373&STRH=3808&ORDN=2303&RNZ=384906
 
The first job was to remove the mounts for the crew oxygen system on the flightdeck and replicate the padding seen on the real thing from thin plastic card scribed with the stitching detail:
 

 
I then scratch-built the rear passenger seats, which are the folding webbed type on the real aircraft:
 

 
The rear fuselage bulkhead by the entry door has webbing to stop passengers venturing too far aft - this was recreated with Evergreen strip:
 

 
The nose compartment bulkhead had the oxygen hoses made from guitar string and the cover for the rear of the instrument panel make from plastic card:
 

 
The underside of the flightdeck by the forward crew entry door is lacking detail as it comes in the kit, so I have made some of the fuselage structure from plastic card and Evergreen:
 

 
The flightdeck itself has had the two additional passenger/crew seats scratch-built and the guards around the control columns added:
 

 
Finally, the radio room has had the camera hatch added to the floor, the table support modified, and the rear bulkhead has had the ball-turret ammunition cans removed and the structural detail added from plastic card and yet more Evergreen. All doors have been removed as these will be posed open to allow more light to travel through the model's interior.
 

 
I've a few more smaller details to add before a coat or two of paint.
 
It's been great fun so far 
 
Tom
 
 

and a few more pictures of the r-2800 pratt engine
 

 

 

 

Thanks for the kind comments.
 
I painted the Dark Hearth. I used the H-72 of Gunze.
 

 

 

 

 

 

  For vertical stems used the same paint (H-72) and painted at the same time.       I wish you all a Merry Christmas    .   Regards   ajcmac

Thank you all for following and commenting.
 
After I know that the mask was out of stock I decided to make the mask for the canopy.                   Finally I will be able to continue with camouflage paint.   Regards   ajcmac

I just like to start with the rest of the  build of this model.
So, I skip the hole story and history about the Junkers J.1.
My next model of WnW, I will start fresh, i hope this is okay with you, gentlemen.
The start is here:  http://ipms.freeforums.org/wnw-junkers-j-1-t2643.html
This is in Dutch.
My English writing is not that good, my excuse for that.
I found out that my engine was not complete en here the finish of the engine.
I hope, tomorrow, that I can paint the kit in his ground layer.
 

Decals almost done so we decided to unmask the (puttied) wings to see what they look like..
 So now for a few more decals some toning and weathering..just a bit..and then up on its legs.   have a base ready for it.
  Cheers.
   Bill.
This is true blue

This is my first Trumpeter kit, so I decided to try and build it without any aftermarket stuff to see how good a kit it really was. So far, I haven't needed anything special to get it up to my personal standards, but it's still early yet. Like it overall, but am disappointed that there's no easy way to show off the nice engines without some serious hacking. I left the right engine out and built a mount inside for the prop so I could later build the engine on a stand for display.
Paper seatbelts, drill some small holes to add wiring, and few scavenged placard decals from other kits, and the pit looks pretty decent, my crappy photography aside.


to solve the problem of nose ballast, I filled the lower portion of the nose cone with lead carved to fit snugly, and covered it with a plate of plastic, and added a brick of lead in the lower gun bay carved to fit in the slot under the magazines. Since that still wasn't enough, I also chose to carve the magazines themselves out of sheet lead and polish them. With a little paint and some details added, I think they will turn out nicely!


Have to go for now, will add more later!
 
Tim