mhorina

Thierry,
   I used the Amur resin front end on my Revell 109G-6 kit. These are the best resin AM parts I have ever used, the fit was excellent. I also have the 2 gun cowling parts from Alley Kat resin set for the Revell G-6 kit. Do you think the Alley Kat parts would fit any of the  Trumpeter G kits? Thanks for any thoughts on this.
      Mike Horina
 
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HLJ re-release of Hasegawa 32nd big tail 190D-9 for under $30  Try this link  http;//hlj.com/product/HSG08240/Air
    Mike Horina

Just finished dry fitting the Erla cowling for a 109 G-14 by Amurreveaver and IMHO it is the best after market item I ever bought. Minimal sanding makes it fit better than the Revell kit parts. Only problem I see is figuring out how best to attach it to the Revell kit parts. The fit is so good that it looks to be hard to figure out where and with what type of glue to use to attach it to the Revell kit parts because of the way Revell has you assemble the kit.  The part number for this is RC3204. I don't know these people except that service and items bought are great. Almost hard to determine if this is a resin or vac part as its so thin
    Mike Horina
 
 

Rog,
   Not that i'm aware of. The A2Zee has a good corrected Erla G-10 cowl. Only problem is you have to buy it in a corrected set like what they did at first for the Revell G-6 kit. They then sold those cowlings as stand alone parts. This is not how they are selling the Erla G-10 cowling though. I wish they would, I used it and I thought it came out very good.
      Mike Horina

Just finished dry fitting the Erla cowling for a 109 G-14 by Amurreveaver and IMHO it is the best after market item I ever bought. Minimal sanding makes it fit better than the Revell kit parts. Only problem I see is figuring out how best to attach it to the Revell kit parts. The fit is so good that it looks to be hard to figure out where and with what type of glue to use to attach it to the Revell kit parts because of the way Revell has you assemble the kit.  The part number for this is RC3204. I don't know these people except that service and items bought are great. Almost hard to determine if this is a resin or vac part as its so thin
    Mike Horina
 
 

Tony,
   I tend to agree with you in this "braun" as a basis of 81,whether it be "braunviolet","dunkelbraun or "olivbraun"
      Mike Horina

I would say Jennings is correct. Depending on what /who you read. Its like going to the olive store. Which do you like the Light/dark brown ones or the light/dark green ones? So 81A or 81 could be correct. This plus the fact that I'm still trying to make myself believe 83 is Blue .
      Mike Horina   

Brian,
 SB has it in stock-Humbrol 90

Yeah, but only for a second or two.

I like to know what is good or bad about all new kits. When some members say a kit is ok and others say not so great why must there always be arguments about what one or the other says? Aren't they just opinions from one or the other? It seems to me, who only wants to know the opinions, right or wrong. All members should realize that its just someone's opinion. Why must we argue who is right or wrong? If you have frequented boards like this, sooner or later you will know whose opinion was good or bad, right or wrong it is then your opinion that should count for you. You yourself will make the decision on who was right or wrong, good or bad and you are the only one who buys or does not buy a kit. Its always about you, who trusts these opinions or not, before you buy. I like to know what other people think about a kit before I buy.  Its always nice when members like to share their opinions, but it becomes tiresome when others only want to degrade the other guys opinion, because they are right and the other guy is wrong. I'd like to make that decision without the BS.
        Mike Horina

I like to know what is good or bad about all new kits. When some members say a kit is ok and others say not so great why must there always be arguments about what one or the other says? Aren't they just opinions from one or the other? It seems to me, who only wants to know the opinions, right or wrong. All members should realize that its just someone's opinion. Why must we argue who is right or wrong? If you have frequented boards like this, sooner or later you will know whose opinion was good or bad, right or wrong it is then your opinion that should count for you. You yourself will make the decision on who was right or wrong, good or bad and you are the only one who buys or does not buy a kit. Its always about you, who trusts these opinions or not, before you buy. I like to know what other people think about a kit before I buy.  Its always nice when members like to share their opinions, but it becomes tiresome when others only want to degrade the other guys opinion, because they are right and the other guy is wrong. I'd like to make that decision without the BS.
        Mike Horina

I like to know what is good or bad about all new kits. When some members say a kit is ok and others say not so great why must there always be arguments about what one or the other says? Aren't they just opinions from one or the other? It seems to me, who only wants to know the opinions, right or wrong. All members should realize that its just someone's opinion. Why must we argue who is right or wrong? If you have frequented boards like this, sooner or later you will know whose opinion was good or bad, right or wrong it is then your opinion that should count for you. You yourself will make the decision on who was right or wrong, good or bad and you are the only one who buys or does not buy a kit. Its always about you, who trusts these opinions or not, before you buy. I like to know what other people think about a kit before I buy.  Its always nice when members like to share their opinions, but it becomes tiresome when others only want to degrade the other guys opinion, because they are right and the other guy is wrong. I'd like to make that decision without the BS.
        Mike Horina

Rog,
 ST22 'Rita'  G-10
      Mike Horina

A"fairly improved" copy?  I have never done this in over 10 years of posting on the net but I will now say this. You,Sir,are a nitwit. Either that or you are completely ignorant of what a P-51 is,or both!!
   And since you covered your insult by stating that everyone is welcome to their opinion good.......that is my opinion.
J
J

Yes, but if you can't move the engine up a smidge you won't be able to assemble the Thrump correctly either. It must be aligned perfectly if the fuselage outlets are to align properly with the piping. Plus the landing gear retraction mechanism is molded to the leg on the Trump and locates nowhere to the wheelwell whereas the Hase piece is separate and you can mount it correctly in the wheelwell. But no one here wishes to mention some other items that are wrong. But build what you want.
    Mike Horina

Hi all,
The main and/or the most telling difference in the 51A as compared to the B/C and D wheelwells concerns the position of water lines. The Aires wheelwell marketed as for the 51B has these lines running along the center brace in the wheelwells as is the position for the Allison engine A series 51s. Because of the deepened fuselage on the Packard/Merlin engine 51s (B/C, Ds) the water lines were placed above the wheelwells HTH
Mike Horina

Hi Vandy,
While I have no pictures of Black 22 or 27 I have several pictures of Black 4 that surrendered at Falconara Italy. I will give my thoughts on 22 on the front cover and the Black 3 on the back cover of the book you mentioned. I have not seen any drawings, illustrations or pictures of 27. 3 and 22 have all the identity marks of Black 4. These are: lower fill for the oil tank, small wing bulges, long tailwheel strut, under port wing antenna, Erla canopy, tall tail and if 22 and 3 had starboard side pic you could see if they also had the lower starting hatch like 4 making the cowling according to Mr Mermet a type 90 cowling. A starboard view of the fuselage would also show if the hatch for compressed air for the 30MM cannon was present. I think the Black 3, 4 and 22 are 109G-14AS and Black 10,another Croat 109 that was on the same mission when Black 4 surrendered, and 27 could be G-14s. But its your model. IF you want to do G-14AS all the hatches are there on the Hase G-10 kit and you'll have to fill the upper ones and the one on the rear fuselage. The Hase 109G-14 could be done as either Black 27 or 10. I do have a picture of a Croat 109G-14 that is a Black 10.
Mike Horina

Markus, Maybe this will help, it was posted on P-51 SIG
1/32 Tamiya P-51D, Cockpit Details
Post by Tourist » Tue Aug 09, 2011 10:10 pm
 
Recently Jerry asked if I could post some information about the cockpit parts included in the new Tamiya kit, a sort of "was should be there or not" kinda thing.
I finally have a little time off so here we go.
This only concerns the parts included in the kit, in reality the cockpit's evolution is more complex with a lot more details and subtle changes, we 've touched on some of it in other threads.
 
-Canopies:
I'm not sure exactly when the switch from -2 to -6 occurred (did hlppls45 mention it in a recent thread?)
The fact that the canopies were interchangeable complicates matters a bit, so check pictures of the aircraft you want to build that's the only way to be sure.
 
-Seats:
They were also interchangeable and it seems randomly switched during production.
The WMA seat was more common but once again checking pictures is the best way to know.
 
-Parts D3, D51, D52 and D53 should only be used if you build a Mustang with an IFF set; P-51D-30, post war or some Pacific based Mustangs.
 
-Instrument panels:
Part D30 should only be used on P-51D-5NA & NT's and P-51K-1's.
All other P-51D and K's should have part D31
In reality it's a little more complicated and on many blocks the IP form part D31 should be used on the frame of part D30 (with a few adjustment along the way).
 
-The pilot's switchbox part D50 was only used on P-51D-5 (NA&NT) and P-51K-1's, part D48 (with rocket controls) was used on P-51D-20NA 44-72227 and subsequent airframes and in Dallas on P-51K-15's and Subs.
Part D49 was used on P-51D's in between (P-51D-10, 15 & early 20NA's and on P-51K-5 & 10NT's).
 
-The electrical switchbox part D18 was used on early airframes (P-51D-5NA & NT and P-51K-1's), part D17 was used on all other aircraft.
 
-The small panel for the APS-13 part D1 (as well as part D14) was on 44-72127 and subs. in Inglewood and P-51K-10 44-12153 and subs. in Dallas.
Part D2 was on earlier planes.
 
-The instrument panel shroud should be the later style with the stiffeners (part D27) on P-51D-25's and subs. while the earlier blocks used the D28 part.
 
-The K-14 gunsight replaced the N-9 starting with 44-72227 in Inglewood and the first P-51D-20NT in Dallas.
These were often retrofitted to ealier blocks.
The K-14 always comes with the dimmer control (part D5) and the later throttle control (par tD13).
 
-For those interested in adding the beacon receiver in the cockpit (and an aerial antenna outside) I am not sure exactly when the the BC-438 (parts D7+D10) switched to the BC-1206 (D12) but I've seen pictures showing the BC-438 in P-51D-5's and D-10's so it was later.
At some point the beacon receiver (BC-1206 by then) went from the floor of the cockpit to the right wall, this is covered in T.O. 01-60JE-25.
 
Mike Horina

Markus, Maybe this will help, it was posted on P-51 SIG
1/32 Tamiya P-51D, Cockpit Details
Post by Tourist » Tue Aug 09, 2011 10:10 pm
 
Recently Jerry asked if I could post some information about the cockpit parts included in the new Tamiya kit, a sort of "was should be there or not" kinda thing.
I finally have a little time off so here we go.
This only concerns the parts included in the kit, in reality the cockpit's evolution is more complex with a lot more details and subtle changes, we 've touched on some of it in other threads.
 
-Canopies:
I'm not sure exactly when the switch from -2 to -6 occurred (did hlppls45 mention it in a recent thread?)
The fact that the canopies were interchangeable complicates matters a bit, so check pictures of the aircraft you want to build that's the only way to be sure.
 
-Seats:
They were also interchangeable and it seems randomly switched during production.
The WMA seat was more common but once again checking pictures is the best way to know.
 
-Parts D3, D51, D52 and D53 should only be used if you build a Mustang with an IFF set; P-51D-30, post war or some Pacific based Mustangs.
 
-Instrument panels:
Part D30 should only be used on P-51D-5NA & NT's and P-51K-1's.
All other P-51D and K's should have part D31
In reality it's a little more complicated and on many blocks the IP form part D31 should be used on the frame of part D30 (with a few adjustment along the way).
 
-The pilot's switchbox part D50 was only used on P-51D-5 (NA&NT) and P-51K-1's, part D48 (with rocket controls) was used on P-51D-20NA 44-72227 and subsequent airframes and in Dallas on P-51K-15's and Subs.
Part D49 was used on P-51D's in between (P-51D-10, 15 & early 20NA's and on P-51K-5 & 10NT's).
 
-The electrical switchbox part D18 was used on early airframes (P-51D-5NA & NT and P-51K-1's), part D17 was used on all other aircraft.
 
-The small panel for the APS-13 part D1 (as well as part D14) was on 44-72127 and subs. in Inglewood and P-51K-10 44-12153 and subs. in Dallas.
Part D2 was on earlier planes.
 
-The instrument panel shroud should be the later style with the stiffeners (part D27) on P-51D-25's and subs. while the earlier blocks used the D28 part.
 
-The K-14 gunsight replaced the N-9 starting with 44-72227 in Inglewood and the first P-51D-20NT in Dallas.
These were often retrofitted to ealier blocks.
The K-14 always comes with the dimmer control (part D5) and the later throttle control (par tD13).
 
-For those interested in adding the beacon receiver in the cockpit (and an aerial antenna outside) I am not sure exactly when the the BC-438 (parts D7+D10) switched to the BC-1206 (D12) but I've seen pictures showing the BC-438 in P-51D-5's and D-10's so it was later.
At some point the beacon receiver (BC-1206 by then) went from the floor of the cockpit to the right wall, this is covered in T.O. 01-60JE-25.
 
Mike Horina

Derek,
  Phasephantomphixer is right the P-51A Air Commando Hobbycraft kit is better for the gunbay doors.
       Mike Horina

Don't do it! The gun throughs are noticeably too short (7mm as I wrote in another thread). This may be corrected but won't be very easy. Use the Aires set. This is a far better option.

I suspect they would fit with a little work.  I'm using the leftover non-Beule cowl panels that come with Trumpeter kit on a 21st CT 109F and they fit pretty well, I've got a 1 mm gap to fill but otherwise they match up well.

Hi Martin, That thread you have points to a very nice model. However it is a Hobbycraft P-51A kit. Well done and only one of a few finished models of that kit that I've seen.
Mike Horina

There's no doubt that the ZM kit is far superior in every way to the Revell offering, and to the 'rivet counters' amongst us, it's great that the model exudes all of the qualities they expect from a kit of this subject. However, the Revell kit does make a very nice model and I doubt that any 'normal' modeller out there displaying this alongside a ZM rendition would have the general public pointing out the subtle differences? Once again, it's 'you pays yer money and makes yer choice' when it comes to buying. I will be building the Revell kit and enjoying it for what it is, I'm afraid I don't have the time to build super duper kits like the ZM ones these days even though it's beautiful to see such perfection. Now I much prefer to complete more kits that are less complicated, that way I feel I've achieved something for that year rather than having a load of 'hangar queens' in boxes through taking too long to finish. Only once in my entire life have I had a member of the public lightly criticise a model of mine when it was displayed at a show, and that was because he flew it during the war! The odds of it ever happening again I'd think would be zero! So having ultimate kits are great, but I doubt I'll live long enough to finish them all! Happy days, what a fantastic situation to be in eh!

Hi Derek, Then maybe you can advance those P-40N spoke wheels/tires
Mike Horina