Out2gtcha Posted January 6 Share Posted January 6 Looking great so far! Don't worry, I think we all have done that sort of thing at least once in our modeling. Grunticus, Derek B, rafju and 1 other 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grunticus Posted January 6 Author Share Posted January 6 1 hour ago, Out2gtcha said: Looking great so far! Don't worry, I think we all have done that sort of thing at least once in our modeling. Thanks Brian. For me it's at least once per build, but I don't let that deter me. It's just my nature alas. rafju, Out2gtcha and Derek B 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted January 6 Share Posted January 6 42 minutes ago, Grunticus said: Thanks Brian. For me it's at least once per build, but I don't let that deter me. It's just my nature alas. Wait until you get to my level - once per session! Kev Derek B and Grunticus 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted January 7 Share Posted January 7 Honestly, that assessment of mine is probably a bit light on my own modeling too! Derek B and Grunticus 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grunticus Posted January 7 Author Share Posted January 7 The two part epoxy came loose while reshaping it. I will leave this self-inflicted fatal flaw as is and coninue my journey of gettting a NoAF Storch on the shelf. I have also enrolled myself into a highly regarded course where one is expertly trained in distinguishing up from down, to avert mistakes like this in the future. Landrotten Highlander, Shoggz and rafju 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek B Posted January 7 Share Posted January 7 1 hour ago, Grunticus said: The two part epoxy came loose while reshaping it. I will leave this self-inflicted fatal flaw as is and coninue my journey of gettting a NoAF Storch on the shelf. I have also enrolled myself into a highly regarded course where one is expertly trained in distinguishing up from down, to avert mistakes like this in the future. Hi Leon, Unless you really key the surface which the two part epoxy putty was attached to, it would detach from the smooth plastic surface. For what it is worth, after sanding/keying such a surface, I use CA (Superglue) and bicarbonate soda powder to gradually build up the area in layers slightly more than I need and reshape/sand it accordingly (alternatively, CA glue and talcum powder mix works well in the same manner). Mixed CA glue has some advantages over normal two-part epoxy putty for this particular application, the main ones being: The speed it hardens, although varying in hardness (from medium to soft depending if you use bicarbonate of soda powder or talcum powder), it is still easier to sand and shape than epoxy putty filler and is non-shrinking (it also blends into the plastic surface very well). Good luck Derek Landrotten Highlander 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grunticus Posted January 7 Author Share Posted January 7 1 hour ago, Derek B said: Hi Leon, Unless you really key the surface which the two part epoxy putty was attached to, it would detach from the smooth plastic surface. For what it is worth, after sanding/keying such a surface, I use CA (Superglue) and bicarbonate soda powder to gradually build up the area in layers slightly more than I need and reshape/sand it accordingly (alternatively, CA glue and talcum powder mix works well in the same manner). Mixed CA glue has some advantages over normal two-part epoxy putty for this particular application, the main ones being: The speed it hardens, although varying in hardness (from medium to soft depending if you use bicarbonate of soda powder or talcum powder), it is still easier to sand and shape than epoxy putty filler and is non-shrinking (it also blends into the plastic surface very well). Good luck Derek Thank you for this suggestion Derek. I have this at home and will experiment a bit as I've never tried this method before. I have read the combination can be used for seams, but not for build-up. I will use some scrap part and see if this could be done by me. Thanks! Derek B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek B Posted January 7 Share Posted January 7 46 minutes ago, Grunticus said: Thank you for this suggestion Derek. I have this at home and will experiment a bit as I've never tried this method before. I have read the combination can be used for seams, but not for build-up. I will use some scrap part and see if this could be done by me. Thanks! Good idea Leon - you will soon get the hang of it (there are some online videos to look at as a guide as well). As the CA glue and bicarbonate soda powder mix is harder, and can be sanded to ultra thin and razor sharp edges, I use the method for building the trailing edges of propeller blades with great success. For all other gaps and building up areas, I use the CA and talcum powder mixture. It may take a few applications or layers of the mix to achieve the coverage and build up you require (the viscosity can be adjusted by how much talcum powder you add to the CA glue - the more the thicker and softer, whereas less is runnier and harder), but it is definitely easy to sand and is smooth when completed with no shrinkage (it is similar to the original plastic in terms of density - straight CA glue is harder than the plastic so is hard to sand). Good luck Derek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grunticus Posted January 7 Author Share Posted January 7 Before I attempt another repair (after I watch some tutorials) I set my mind on something different: the elevators. From Paolo's thread Iearned the tab and slot solution offered by the kit is unrealistic as there is a gap between elevators and fuselage on the real thing, to which they were attached with tubing. I had already seperated the elevators earlier. I have sanded the elevator's forward edge round, and the receiving end on the stabilizers concave, with the dremel, round files, sandpaper and lastly swipes with cottonswabs drenched in nailpoish remover. This gave a more realistic look than straight edges, especially since I want to let the elevator droop, like often seen on parked Storches without gust-locks. The right one received the same treatment of course. The look I want to achieve on the finished model: I drew a pencil line right through the middle of the filled in slot and drilled holes for the elevator shaft and the satbilizer attachment points, and pushed three brass rods throught the holes all the way through. I miss-drilled once but simply glued some stretched sprue in, let that dry, and re-drilled in the correct position. In the end they came out pretty even. I then drilled corresponding holes in the elevators and stabilizers. A first test-fit revealed it was all right. It's a little bit too tight in this photo below, so I sanded some more off the elevator and deepened the concave on the stabilizer a little bit more, and now all is good. Not too shabby Cheers! denders, Alain Gadbois, Furie and 11 others 14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mc65 Posted January 7 Share Posted January 7 marvelous! now you need to check that the position of the stabilizer is consistent with the indicator in the cockpit! regarding the front mouth of the engine cowling... I hadn't noticed this error in the kit, now I should take courage and correct it, thanks for this report! Martinnfb, Alain Gadbois, Grunticus and 1 other 1 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grunticus Posted January 8 Author Share Posted January 8 The method with superglue and baking soda worked pretty well, I am surprised by how close it reacts like plastic when sanding. The shape is still off, but I managed to restore it nearer to what it should look like. The engine's in also. I's tight fit in every respect. It's far from perfect but not much will be seen anyway. The door is done. When I removed the tape there was a lot of residu on the windows, both on the Eduard-side and the homemade side (Tamiya sheet sheet). I hope this is not the case on the greenhouse. I could remove it easily with turpentine but the greenhouse is no longer accessible of course. I am filling the seams on the wings and started painting the stabilizers / rudders, slats and flaps. I will probably get around to painting the fuselage tomorrow. Cheers! Troy Molitor, Sepp, Derek B and 11 others 14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dpgsbody55 Posted January 9 Share Posted January 9 Coming along well. I like your solution for the tail plane attachment. Cheers, Michael Martinnfb and Grunticus 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grunticus Posted January 10 Author Share Posted January 10 The fuselage is nearing completion. I have already cut the code letters and white disks, and printer NoAF roundels in the apropriate sizes for this aircraft (600 & 900mm). I had a tough time getting the engine and cowling assembled. In the end I cheated and removed the exhaust manifold from the engine and glued the exhausts themselves to the inside of the engine panel. Still a lot of sanding and puttying was required. My fears for smudging on the inside of the canopy came ut true alas. Not much can be done here. I added an extra brass rod at an angle to make a strong connection for the elevator. Now I have started finishing the wing seam puttying, and am preparig various struts. Cheers! Derek B, patricksparks, Alain Gadbois and 13 others 16 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grunticus Posted January 13 Author Share Posted January 13 I have been a bit busy and, well, it's done save a round of light weathering. Next up will be the RFI. Thanks for watching, I had mostly fun with this little booger (actually I was surprised how big it is). The pitot tube will be put on last. The yellow seems a bit orange in these photos, but that's just lighting. The Norwegian roundels are laser-printed and I used white disk decals as underlayment. The aircraft codes were also cut with the Sihouette ot of white decal paper. Cheers! MikeMaben, Sepp, Fanes and 16 others 19 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Molitor Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 I'm really liking this one. The colors really look great on her. Grunticus, Out2gtcha and rafju 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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