Tec182 Posted May 28 Share Posted May 28 (edited) Prop balance weights are (generally) attached to a fitting at the prop hub for several reasons (technical and safety). In this case, it might be easier to affix them to the tips for testing. Once you determine if this solves the problem, you can hide them in the hub, but adjust the amount for the moment arm length. Another possibility is something different (density, length, pitch) in one blade relative to the others. Over the years I’ve stopped several ceiling fans from oscillating by bending the blade mounts so the blades “track” each other more closely and adjusting the blade pitch to get them as close the equal as possible. Another consideration is the motor mount itself. In the vid you are holding the assembly in your hand. This can amplify the unbalance, the Lockheed Electra is a case in point. When testing get the mounting as solid as possible and try to get it close to what you will use in your build. 40+ years of Mechanical Engineering helps, but the real value fun is what I’ve learned being a nuisance to some friends who are A&Ps over the decades. Edited May 28 by Tec182 Bstarr3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bstarr3 Posted May 28 Author Share Posted May 28 While I was puzzling about this motor issue and waiting for suggestions from the peanut gallery, I set about some figure painting yesterday. The kit pilot figure is actually pretty well molded for what it is. The detail is not as great as a resin figure, but looked like the face was well-sculpted enough that I could get a decent result with painting it. I’ve used this technique for my last few figures and been happy with the result. First I prime with Mr Surfacer 1500 black, then do zenithal highlights by spraying a light color - in this case MRP clear doped linen - from an angle above, creating highlights where they would naturally fall, and leaving shadows elsewhere. Then, I brush paint with Vallejo Model Colors, mixed with glaze medium. This creates a thin but even layer of color, through which the shadows and highlights show nicely. Here are the basic colors blocked in: I start with a base layer of brown sand on the face, then mix up a wet palette with sunny skin tone, brown sand, and buff, blending shadows and highlights between these three colors. that one brush is what I use for the whole figure, although irises of the eyes were done with a toothpick. here’s the finished work: LSP_Ray, Landrotten Highlander, LSP_Kevin and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMaben Posted May 29 Share Posted May 29 8 hours ago, Bstarr3 said: ... waiting for suggestions from the peanut gallery, HEY ! ! ! Bstarr3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bstarr3 Posted May 30 Author Share Posted May 30 Well, sadly, this build is going on hold for the next few months (and just when I was getting into a flow!), as we've somewhat unexpectedly put our house on the market in order to relocate for a new job. So the junky modelling desk gets packed away, completed subassemblies and painted figures carefully put away for the next time. Hopefully, the next time I see you all, I will be posting some shots of my new and improved workspace in the new place. LSP_Kevin and mc65 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted May 30 Share Posted May 30 Hey Brian... I am enjoying your Corsair build and look forward to seeing you resolve the issues with the spinning prop feature. Great work on the pilot figure too! Good luck on your move and I hope it goes smoothly and nothing gets broken! Bstarr3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted May 30 Share Posted May 30 Good luck with your sale, move, and new job, Brian! Kev Bstarr3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ray Posted May 30 Share Posted May 30 Well done! Bstarr3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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