Jump to content

Mitsubishi A6M2 Reisen, PO1C Tetsuzo Iwamoto, Zuikaku Fighter Squadron


Uncarina

Recommended Posts

"At the time of its introduction the aircraft possessed, in combination, revolutionary features for a fighter. It had an all-round vision canopy, whereas most fighters had cockpits faired into the fuselage spine behind the pilot’s head, limiting rearward vision. It carried a 20 mm cannon in each wing, as well as a pair of rifle-calibre machine guns mounted in front of the pilot and synchronised to fire through the propeller. And it had an external fuel tank – a drop tank – that could be jettisoned in combat, the design of which was a masterpiece of engineering in its own right and which enhanced an operating range considered phenomenal at the time. The Zero-sen was the first truly long-range strategic escort fighter – a capability driven by Japanese strategic bombing experience in China that underpinned its extraordinary success during the first year of the Pacific War, coming as such a shock to the Allies."

 

Millman, Nicholas. A6M Zero-sen Aces 1940-42: 137 (Aircraft of the Aces) (pp. 5-6). Bloomsbury Publishing. Kindle Edition.

 

I started building the Tamiya A6M2 and left it around 2017. More recently I was inspired by the work of Sean (Madmax) in his build thread:

where he with the aid of Ryan (A6M) put together what I consider the definitive build of the Nakajima-built Zero. To me they are real Senseis (Ones Who Have Gone Before). However, I've always leaned towards the Mitsubishi-built version, and decided to build P01C Tetsuzo Iwamoto's aircraft when he flew from the Zuikaku.

 

When I left the build I had faithfully painted and assembled the cockpit according to Tamiya's instructions. I clearly had work to do! Over the years I have collected a fair bit of aftermarket:

 

Ol03xJA.jpg

 

Not pictured are the AK Real Color paints I'm now using for the build, which I've read were developed in coordination with Nicholas Millman (http://www.aviationofjapan.com/). I decided to use the Quinta interior set, which meant that I had to scrape off all protruding surfaces, then paint with Mitsubishi Cockpit Green:

 

KTKd5Iv.jpg

 

UrRCEYQ.jpg

 

7og4kN5.jpg

 

4hj33Uy.jpg

 

tqaf7e5.jpg

 

9LyvIIg.jpg

 

The Quinta set had a slightly different color interpretation, so I carefully repainted these surfaces with diluted AK Real Colors paint. Note in this last photo you can see that I removed one of the tanks, which according to Ryan's notes is appropriate for a Mitsubishi-built Reisen. Until next time!

 

Cheers,  Tom

Edited by Uncarina
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks to you all! You might notice I removed the clock from the instrument panel, which Ryan pointed out was a common practice among pilots. Mike asked if the artificial horizon is supposed to be crooked when the aircraft is parked. Looks like this might be a mistake by Quinta. What are your thoughts?

 

Cheers,  Tom

Edited by Uncarina
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Uncarina said:

Thanks to you all! You might notice I removed the clock from the instrument panel, which Ryan pointed out was a common practice among pilots. Mike asked if the artificial horizon is supposed to be crooked when the aircraft is parked. Looks like this might be a mistake by Quinta. What are your thoughts?

 

Cheers,  Tom

Hi Tom,

 

I'm amazed at the crisp detail the Quinta set provides - makes the macro shots a real pleasure to behold. Regarding the A/H, it would be quite normal for an uncaged instrument to lie any way it wants when the gyro runs down. I seem to recall being rapped on the knuckles however for leaving instruments uncaged during my ab initio training. 

 

Have fun, it is my favourite Tamiya kit to date!

 

Sean

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a couple of notes about using the Quinta set. I’ve used several so far and they all have these in common:

1) when wetted they become loose in seconds. I move them over to a section of paper towel to dry;

2) For areas with a big contact surface I use Future floor polish (or the equivalent) to allow repositioning as needed:

3) For smaller surfaces I use CA. However, like any resin these sets adhere immediately, so be precise when positioning;

4) Like any resin the parts are brittle. I had several of the wires break when bending and was luckily able to reattach them.

5) If the color doesn’t match the rest of the cockpit use a fine brush to apply diluted paint (almost a wash).

 

Cheers,  Tom

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"Iwamoto was a China veteran already credited with 14 victories when he flew on CAP duties at Pearl Harbor, seeing no action. He made claims for four Hurricanes over Ceylon in April 1942 and further claims for SBDs and Wildcats the following month during the Battle of the Coral Sea. In August he was sent back to Japan to serve as a flying instructor with the Oppama Kokutai, returning to operational duties with 281st Kokutai in March 1943 and subsequently going to Rabaul in a reinforcing detachment. Here, Iwamoto served in 204th Kokutai, claiming 20 victories and five probables in a single month, and 253rd Kokutai. He then fought in the Philippines, over Taiwan and Okinawa with 252nd and 203rd Kokutais, surviving the war but dying of blood poisoning in 1954. Iwamoto’s technique of single hit-and-run attacks in near-vertical dives from very high altitude resulted in many claims that were not substantiated. However, his diary recorded 202 such attacks, and he has been credited with an estimated 80 victories, making him the IJNAF’s second highest and longest serving ace."

 

Millman, Nicholas. A6M Zero-sen Aces 1940-42: 137 (Aircraft of the Aces) (p. 139). Bloomsbury Publishing. Kindle Edition.

 

jreEkk5.jpg

 

This is from the Eduard Tora Tora Tora! 1/32 decal set (EDUD32018). This set offers 12 options, along with detailed mini-bios of the pilots. My plan is to make masks for the markings.

 

One of the tweaks with the Tamiya kit is that the area behind the cockpit has recessed rivets, whereas they should be raised. Archers rivets to the rescue!

 

n3tWuLt.jpg

 

...which I then painted with AK Real Colors Blue-Black:

 

5IZSGqT.jpg

 

I first used AK Real Colors on my Shiden-Kai build, and something I've noticed is that I need around a 15:1 thinner-paint ratio, using the AK High Compatibility Thinner. Other than that the coverage and consistency are good. Until next time!

 

Cheers,  Tom

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...