mc65 Posted April 25, 2022 Share Posted April 25, 2022 (edited) hi Kevin, great job on the wheels! perhaps whoever designed them originally had a wreck in mind! about the drop tanks, surely you already know that there were at least two types of cap, one of which very prominent, the other less, being of the flush type. in these two photos it is also clear how the union line between the two half-valves, upper and lower, was a thin line, while the Hasegawa one is quite high... cheers, Paolo Edited April 25, 2022 by mc65 BradG, Alex, Greif8 and 4 others 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennismcc Posted April 25, 2022 Share Posted April 25, 2022 Working well Kev, for such an old kit it is turning out nicely, good job on the tyres as well. Cheers Dennis LSP_Kevin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted April 25, 2022 Author Share Posted April 25, 2022 2 hours ago, mc65 said: hi Kevin, great job on the wheels! perhaps whoever designed them originally had a wreck in mind! about the drop tanks, surely you already know that there were at least two types of cap, one of which very prominent, the other less, being of the flush type. in these two photos it is also clear how the union line between the two half-valves, upper and lower, was a thin line, while the Hasegawa one is quite high... cheers, Paolo Thanks, Paolo. I wasn't aware of the the two types of cap on the drop tanks, actually! But Hasegawa's rendition doesn't match either of them, and is poorly located. I did know about the line being overly thick, and ironically Mark has a set in the box that he worked on and corrected, but I felt it would be poor form for me to just slap his improved units on my build and call them my own. On the other hand, I guess it's not really any different from using resin wheels or cockpit, eh? Kev mc65 and Alain Gadbois 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mc65 Posted April 25, 2022 Share Posted April 25, 2022 Glad to be of any help, Kev! well, I think you'd be doing Mark an injustice by not using those! he spent time and effort on, I guess he will be happy to see his drop tanks used in the end! LSP_Kevin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted April 25, 2022 Author Share Posted April 25, 2022 27 minutes ago, mc65 said: Glad to be of any help, Kev! well, I think you'd be doing Mark an injustice by not using those! he spent time and effort on, I guess he will be happy to see his drop tanks used in the end! I think you're probably right! He already glued them to the pylons and made the attachment points solid instead of braces, so I'll have to see if I can get those off, as I've already glued the pylons to the wings. Kev Fanes and mc65 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted April 28, 2022 Author Share Posted April 28, 2022 Just popping in for a quick update concerning the prop spinner. I had a certain technique in my mind for painting it that I wanted to try out, which I've now done. Report as follows! Firstly, I gave the spinner a couple of coats of Tamiya Flat Yellow, stopping when I was satisfied with the coverage. This was followed by a couple of heavy coats of Tamiya X-22 Clear Gloss, to protect the yellow from subsequent masking. It also allows me the possibility to clean up mistakes with the red without affecting the yellow. So far, so good! Next, I covered the entire thing with Tamiya masking tape: Now comes the tricky part. The technique I'm about to outline is one I've used on several occasions to scribe panel lines into spinners and other conical shapes, so I thought I'd see if I could adapt it to cut the masking bands on this one. First, though I had to get it sitting stably, so I drilled a hole in a piece of balsa sheet, big enough to take the protruding prop shaft locating tube: No problems so far! Now, the technique itself works fabulously for scribing, so I had high hopes here. It involves taking a lump of some kind of firm putty or clay - in my case its non-drying modelling clay - and pressing a blade or hobby knife into it horizontally, so that the blade sits at the required height to cut your mask. Like so: The neat thing about this technique is that the blade can be lowered to any height simply by pushing the handle further into the clay, while to raise it, simply re-knead the clay into a solid lump, and start again. The clay also holds and supports the handle quite nicely. Simply hold it against the tape, and rotate the spinner against the blade. Here it is after both sets of cuts were made: Looks OK so far, but I had a great deal of trouble getting the blade to cut evenly, and varying layers of tape across the surface didn't help. Tamiya tape resists cutting anyway, and I found that with the top cut, the blade started to wander a bit - probably due to the handle being less embedded in the clay. I also think that the balsa sheet worked against, both providing more resistance to smooth rotation of the part, and also getting in the way a bit. Anyway, the proof would be in the painting, so let's see how things went after some SMS Red went down: That's a nope! To be fair, this is actually slightly worse that the actual outcome, as the heavy bleed is from some repairs to the top demarcation that I tried to do, after I discovered that the blade had cut two lines in places. I also managed to lightly scribe the part in some places, due to having to get through multiple layers of tape in some section. I gave the entire thing a quick wet sand with some 3M sanding sponge, just to see if things would improve, and while they did, the net result is nowhere near good enough: I'll strip this back, repair the damage, and start again with a more traditional masking method. I think this approach could be refined to work better than I achieved here - using a single layer thinner of tape or other masking material would make a big different. I also should have trimmed the balsa sheet closely around the part for more control when rotating it. But it took a long time to do, and I don't think it offers any real advantages over the old-fashioned approach - at least, not in this particular case. I will, however, continue to use this technique for scribing purposes. One thing it has confirmed for me, though, is that plain old yellow and red are perfectly fine for these colours, and there's no need to get fancy. Oh, and I'm happy to report that Mark's drop tanks were in fact only pinned to their respective wing pylons, so that simplifies things greatly: Kev easixpedro, mc65, Martinnfb and 11 others 14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ayovan Posted April 29, 2022 Share Posted April 29, 2022 (edited) On my Revell Mustang spinner, I used vinyl fine line masking tape in very narrow widths. The narrow widths allow the tape to lay down nice when pulled around a tight compound radius like the spinner. I used the tape for both masking and spacing. Like you I painted the yellow first. I used the masking tape , starting at the bottom of the spinner and pulled the tape tight and flush with the bottom edge of the spinner. I then added another row of the tape butted down tight to the first row. That gave me the spacing for the yellow stripe at the center of the spinner. I wrapped two more rows of tape, which now covered the yellow that would remain, and unmasked the first 2 rows of tape at the bottom of the spinner. I sprayed the red, unmasked the yellow, and had zero touch up. The yellow color on the spinner is a bit off (a lot) but at the time I thought it was ok. Anyway, the technique worked really well. Edited April 29, 2022 by Ayovan Greif8, ivanmoe, daveculp and 4 others 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greif8 Posted May 3, 2022 Share Posted May 3, 2022 Nice work Kev. Too bad your method for scribing did not turn out like you wanted, but I am sure you will get it sorted and the end result will be fantastic. Ernest LSP_Kevin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted May 3, 2022 Author Share Posted May 3, 2022 Apologies fellas, but I've just stalled on this one again. I seem to have a mental block about moving into the priming and painting stage, and I think it's based around having to cut out the vacform windscreen part for test-fitting before I do. I also need to redo the spinner, obviously. But hey, I'll get there! Kev Alain Gadbois, Ayovan, MikeMaben and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale32 Posted May 4, 2022 Share Posted May 4, 2022 8 hours ago, LSP_Kevin said: Apologies fellas, but I've just stalled on this one again. I seem to have a mental block about moving into the priming and painting stage, and I think it's based around having to cut out the vacform windscreen part for test-fitting before I do. I also need to redo the spinner, obviously. But hey, I'll get there! Kev At least you got this far! Cheers Bevan LSP_Kevin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMaben Posted May 4, 2022 Share Posted May 4, 2022 Just now, LSP_Kevin said: Apologies fellas, but I've just stalled on this one again. I seem to have a mental block about moving into the priming and painting stage, and I think it's based around having to cut out the vacform windscreen part for test-fitting before I do. I also need to redo the spinner, obviously. But hey, I'll get there! Kev Kevin please , you know apologies aren't necessary. Take your sweet time. LSP_Kevin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennismcc Posted May 4, 2022 Share Posted May 4, 2022 No problem Kev, as I am sitting here looking at my PCM Spitfire IX that does not require that much work to get it to my favourite modelling job of the paint work but I too am stalled for some unknown reason. It happens to us all. Cheers Dennis LSP_Kevin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greif8 Posted May 7, 2022 Share Posted May 7, 2022 No worries Kev, we aren't on a production schedule with these builds and I am sure you will get going again when you feel like it. Ernest LSP_Kevin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mc65 Posted May 8, 2022 Share Posted May 8, 2022 Fortunately we're here for pure fun, Kevin... take your time, and your fun! Heaven can wait, and us, too! cheers, Paolo LSP_Kevin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted May 8, 2022 Author Share Posted May 8, 2022 Thanks, fellas. To make matters worse, I'm thoroughly distracted by the little Bandai Snowspeeder right now, but I'll be back at the Mustang soon, no doubt. Kev mc65 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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