Fanes Posted November 27, 2021 Author Share Posted November 27, 2021 58 minutes ago, monthebiff said: Funnily enough Joachim,since my WIP re-surfaced this week I have been looking over it and getting all of my research material back together as I am thinking of getting it back on the bench! Regards. Andy Yeeehaw! I may start my 188 in a distant future with your build as a reference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted November 27, 2021 Share Posted November 27, 2021 Great work so far! Fanes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanes Posted November 28, 2021 Author Share Posted November 28, 2021 Major update (reporting in) The cockpit is done and the fuselage closed up. Sadly the cockpit's cross bars weren't a good fit even after I cut them down ~2mm. Luckily this won't show and the fuselage did close (althoough with some gaps/steps). First of all a glamour shot of the IPs: The front coaming/fuselag/engine cowl is a tricky multi piece assembly. One side looks fine.. big gaps on the other side But nothing too drastic with some gentle force. The photo shows the test assembly. Before comitting to glue, the toothpick was shortenend and did spread the part to the appropriate size. Unfortunately I had to choose between a step on the upper or lower rear fuselage. No real choice, so I went with the bottom and black CA as filler The engine cowling suffered from poor manufacturing. The disappearing rivets are a reminder of the horrible surface from Italeri's Starfighter.. The orange peel is a surprise but for sure not a welcome one! The port side is a little better but far from what I expect from ICM kits But it's not too bad overall and should be an easy fix. To conclude with something nice: here's another shot with a look into the cockpits to enjoy I'll tackle the engine cowl in the next days - when I'm in the mood and then the paint booth isn't too far away. Which reminds me: still need to draw the masks for the insignia and unit emblem. Joachim RLWP, MikeMaben, BradG and 5 others 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alain Gadbois Posted November 28, 2021 Share Posted November 28, 2021 Nice cockpit! Too bad for the poor fitting parts. Could it be because of a different plastic compared to the ICM kits? Wonder if the others who built the ICM kit had similar problems. Alain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kensar Posted November 28, 2021 Share Posted November 28, 2021 I hope you can fix that to your liking. I built an ICM kit and didn't have the fit issues, but it was a bit dicey with all the separate parts involved. It took careful fitting of every part. The plastic in the kit was extremely soft - almost unusable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanes Posted November 29, 2021 Author Share Posted November 29, 2021 9 hours ago, Alain Gadbois said: Nice cockpit! Too bad for the poor fitting parts. Could it be because of a different plastic compared to the ICM kits? Wonder if the others who built the ICM kit had similar problems. Alain Thanks Alain! I guess it's not the plastic (as soft as the usual ICM) but more or less quality control/state of the tooling. Every part has a significant amount of mould seams to be removed and the rear fuselage was slightly warped which didn't help with alignment at all. Since there weren't any of those hickups in other WiPs, I guess a little bit of the issues was induced by th builder 7 hours ago, kensar said: I hope you can fix that to your liking. I built an ICM kit and didn't have the fit issues, but it was a bit dicey with all the separate parts involved. It took careful fitting of every part. The plastic in the kit was extremely soft - almost unusable. I hope so too, Ken! You spotted the mistake, I guess.. Careful fitting was something I did after the problems with the internal structure appeared Completely agreed on the soft plastic. The landing gear looks extremely flimsy (replaced it on my I-16 with brass). Cheers Joachim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanes Posted December 4, 2021 Author Share Posted December 4, 2021 I really hate rivetting and rescribing but it's definitely necessary. Running my RB productions rivet wheel along some tape made fine impressions in th eplastic. Not as deep as the ICM sinkholes but okayish. I checked the result with a black enamel wash. Starboard is a little bit more messy but the cowl will be dark RLM71. It's starting to look like a Buecker: Two details on the road to the paint booth. Opening up the exhausts. They're as on every ICM kit not hollow not even a little. And the pitot got a little attention as well. Drilling wasn't an option, so I added a brass tube and two 0.2mm copper wires for the cables you can see on the real Jungmann. and 32 times smaller: That's it for now. Next photo will be with the black base on Landrotten Highlander, MikeC, RLWP and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted December 4, 2021 Share Posted December 4, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, Fanes said: the cables you can see on the real Jungmann. They are pipes. There's one pipe leads to the front to measure the pressure due to forward speed. But this pressure an accurate indicator of speed as it will also change with atmospheric pressure - like climbing to altitude. So there is another pipe that leads to a ring of holes around the circumference of the tube to measure the static pressure If you make a pressure sensor that has the ram pressure on one side and the static pressure on the other, you get a speed indicator Richard Edited December 4, 2021 by RLWP MikeC and Fanes 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC Posted December 4, 2021 Share Posted December 4, 2021 1 hour ago, RLWP said: If you make a pressure sensor that has the ram pressure on one side and the static pressure on the other, you get a speed indicator Aka a pitot head. RLWP 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanes Posted December 4, 2021 Author Share Posted December 4, 2021 1 hour ago, RLWP said: They are pipes. There's one pipe leads to the front to measure the pressure due to forward speed. But this pressure an accurate indicator of speed as it will also change with atmospheric pressure - like climbing to altitude. So there is another pipe that leads to a ring of holes around the circumference of the tube to measure the static pressure If you make a pressure sensor that has the ram pressure on one side and the static pressure on the other, you get a speed indicator Richard Thanks for the clarification Richard! Makes completely sense to have two pressure connections for the airspeed measurement. Fluid mechanics are definitely one of my weak points RLWP 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted December 4, 2021 Share Posted December 4, 2021 19 minutes ago, MikeC said: Aka a pitot head. Or Pitot-static tube It's probably that bloke Bernoulli's fault Richard MikeC 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted December 4, 2021 Share Posted December 4, 2021 5 minutes ago, Fanes said: Thanks for the clarification Richard! Makes completely sense to have two pressure connections for the airspeed measurement. Fluid mechanics are definitely one of my weak points It's a aspect of aero modelling I like. When you know how something works, you can spot details on aeroplanes: Separate tubes that go up the strut, through the wing and down the cabane strut. They have to bridge the join for the detachable upper starboard wing, so there are loops with a joint Richard Fanes and MikeC 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanes Posted December 5, 2021 Author Share Posted December 5, 2021 (edited) Well, thanks to the third anti Covid shot yesterday, there was no way to do any painting today. But I felt good enough to draw the graphics for the paint masks. Took me a while to get them to my liking (thankfully there are no letters with outline this time). Now they're ready for the Silhouette to do its magic. I'm thrilled how the NAG3 emblem will turn out since there are five separate masking parts which will need a clean cut and careful placement on the Jungmann. Edited December 5, 2021 by Fanes MikeC, Landrotten Highlander and LSP_Kevin 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanes Posted December 7, 2021 Author Share Posted December 7, 2021 No paint yet, but a preliminary step I figured that determining where to attach the rigging lines would be easier on the unpainted Buecker. To my surprise there's quite a large amount of rigging necessary (it's a first time for me). The instructions weren't helpful in regard what goes where, but the walkaround proved to be very helpful. Every anchor point got a black do with a sharpie and a small hole to take the line or eyelet. A close up on the wings Now it really is ready for primer. The masks needed some correction, too. Some fool draw the wrong (early) style for the crosses.. Landrotten Highlander, LSP_Kevin, MikeMaben and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanes Posted December 11, 2021 Author Share Posted December 11, 2021 Black base Well, this will be a boring post. I laid done Tamiya's semigloss black thinned with levelling thinner to get an even yet thin base for the following steps. Unfortunately a ghos seam reappeared on the rear fuselage. So a serious amount of black CA was used to fill any of it. After some quick passes with sanding sticks and a poloshing cloth another coat of black was added and the result is much better. Even though the closeup with the macro lens shows a slight hinch of a seam which won't be visible on the flat RLM71 finish - or at least I hope so. The soft palstic makes any filling and sanding a little bit unpredictable for me. Once the black base is fully cured, I'll start painting the first colour for the insignia. Landrotten Highlander, geedubelyer, denders and 4 others 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now