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Buecker 131 Jungmann - eastern front recon


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Starting the insignia

As usual I tend to paint the insigina before the main colours to reduce the risk of building up edges with the necessary light colours.

Therefore the first bas is as always a white marble coat. Which was mixed from Tamiya XF2, a small amount of clear to get a smoother finish and around 70% levelling thinner.

This time the custom micron performed flawlessly and I got a nice result quite quickly.






Ay you can see in the second picture there are problems:

A small pile of CA on the fuselage just aft of the rear cockpit - need to sand once more:BANGHEAD2:


And a lot of white marble though only the crosses and the fuselage band need it.

The reason is that I have recognized that I have no idea how to arrange the insignia.

Usually you woul think that it's J0 + AB, yellow band like in the Revell instructions.



As you can see from the picture in the right my NAGr.3 Jungmann seems to be different.

The cross is aligned with the rectangular panel aft of the first aid kit compartment. Then there's a big space and then the J0 with the 0 overlapping the fuselage band

which must be really far aft/close to the tailplane.

Can the AB letters stand front of the cross, or is it simply coded J0?

I must confess, that I'm a little lost.

Any advice and help is welcome!

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9 hours ago, MARU5137 said:

AUSSERGEWÖHNLICHE Verarbeitung. dein Modell sieht ERSTAUNLICH aus.
Gut gemacht.


:bow:  :bow:

Maru - I didn't know you were fluent in german :D

1 hour ago, MikeMaben said:

Hi Joachim, only the J2 (Nahaufklärungsgruppe 3)  or P2 (Aufklärungsgruppe 21, Aufklärungsgruppe 11 )

would have been in front of the cross . The first letter after the cross would be the a/c ID letter (J). The last

would be the Staffel ID (O).


That's it Mike - thank you very much! That makes perfect sens. I was irritated since my reference listed something like J2+Ax for alls Stab aircraft of NAGr3 and I was convinced that the Buecker belonged to the Stab as well. Although I have no idea how I got to that conclusion :hmmm:

Now this means back to the drawing board to create new masks for J2+JO!




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Painting the insisgnia (caution: lots of pictures incoming)

I've been busy the last days with preparing and starting the insignia.

Let's start with the easy part:
The crosses and the white parts of the underside crosses.


First of we have a white base which has some variation and a huuuuuge dust blob (removed that later)



Then there are the masks with the black lines to help with the alignment



Pulled the white parts' mask with Frisket film ready to transfer



And they're on. I tried to aid with the placement by wetting the surface like with a decal. I think @MikeMaben hinted that trick in another thread.

Good news: it works

Bad news: the fuselage cross mask doesn't stick :BANGHEAD2: - you'll see that in a later picture



The upper wing crosses are much more easy to do since they're only white. The transfer film is here absolutely necessary since the mask would otherwise bend and distort itself.



The fuselage (with the lifting on the mask's edges). I guess the fuselage shape plays a role since Oramask doesn't conform well around sharp edges or raised detail.

Round and smooth shapes weren't a problem in the past..



The yelloq tail band is unusually far behind on J2+JO. Since yellow is a fun colour to paint (not), I laid the yellow mottle over a white one.

Using MRP yellow helps a lot in creating a thin but almost opaque finish.



Several very heavily thinned coats (2/1 MRP / levelling thinner) later we have a nice RLM04 tail band with some variation in colour (hard to photograph).

As usual the macro reveals any small mishaps like the prominent grain which wasn't visible to my eyes - oh well a little polishing will help.



The port side with the red cross for the first aid kit compartment door painted.



Now for the ugly an time consuming part. My Buecker has its codes overlapping with the tail band. The last letter has to be centered on the demarcation.

Placing the mask was a lot of work to get right on both sides. The O was the easier of both since it's symmetric and therefore simple to align.



The J on the starboard side needed some Tamiya tape and markings for the alignment but I hope it turns out okay.



I'll paint the letters with black later today and after a decent drying time I'll have to mask them again (the other way round this time), as wella s the tail band in order to paint the black base for the other code letters.


Until then


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8 hours ago, Jaro said:

I like your approach to national insignia. The final effect should be really nice, with restrained and subtle shading. Definitely I have to try it one day!

Thanks Jaro - I can't praise masks (especially the self made ones) high enough! It's a ton of work and they might never be as perfect as decals but you can use that to your advantage.

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Short update: code letters


The overlapping codes were painted with a 50:50 mixture of Tamiya semigloss and NATO black.

Then the masks were removed and the tail band was masked with tape:




The area were the code letters would be placed was painted with the same almost-black-mixture and the covered with the individual masks.

I altered the spacing between the letters in my file to be able to apply them in pairs instead of one after another.

The reaseon for this procedure: I can never, ever get them aligned exactly parallel.



I'll lay down another black base to get a uniform base for the camo tomorrow.

Might just manage to get the RLM65 down before christmas eve.

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Undersides painted

I'm in the mood for some progress and luckily have the time to spend at the bench.

The undersides recieved their marble coat. I thinned Gunze's RLM65 wih aorund 60% of levelling thinner to balance fine lines with opacity.




The idea was to emphasize the Buecker's nature of mostly fabric surfaces. Therefore all the ribs were painted more solidly than the rest of the airframe.

It might look a little rough - I wasn't going for a perfect mottle.




Afterwards everything was blended in with a colour/thinner ration of 20/80 (more like tinted thinner)



I guess the effect is obvious up close:



And I couldn't resist to pull the masks - et voila:



The insgnia turned out better than expected (from my previous experience). Only slight ridges an minimal bleeding on the left cross



Both problem can and will be erased with some fine (8000 grid) micro mesh.

If I can keep up the pace the RLM71 will be applied next.

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5 hours ago, Out2gtcha said:

That looks wonderful honestly. I've thought about this kit and some other ICM releases since they seem to be in such a groove lately. 

A 100% agreed, Brian! I have their CR.42 and Sea Gladiator in the stash and I'm seriously considering the Tiger Moth.

Not to speak of their choppers..

My only complaint for alle the ICM kits is the soft plastic. It makes sanding hard to predict and the landing gears are so flimsy - thinking of your Cobra :rolleyes:

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Painting is done (for now)

Yesterday evening the RLM71 was sprayed. I left it overnight to dry, so these photos are still fresh.

This time I used AK real color lacquer paint and was pleasantly surprised. On my Zipper build they were not even close to the MRP performance and required perfect thinning to work as good as the trusted Tamiya/Gunze acrylics.

In the last session the AK colour was thinned with around 60% levelling thinner and went down quite smooth but with an ever so slight orange peel. One thing I hadn't noticed before: I needed to get over a treshold paint flow during the marble coat or otherwise the airbrush would clog/tip dry within seconds. Once above the treshold I could go for about half an hour without cleaning the tip.

Good to know but not the perfect behavior for a mottle camouflage or super fine lines.

Anyhow - enough talking here's the Jungmann in all its green glory:



You have to look close to see the black basing effect (damned lint on the wing)





I couldn't resist to pull the masks:





The insgnia turned out mostly okay with a big oopsie on the O:



and a little paint bleeding under the masks - most of it could removed by polishing with Micromesh and a toothpick. The first J on the starboard side suffers the same problem.
Note: never apply the insgnia with a negative mask and then reapply the positive mask without an alignment aid.



Something I didn't expect but oh my gawd the NAGr 3 emblem turned out marvellous:



I'm off to the bench to paint some small stuff like the wheels/tyres and the wooden prop.

See (or read?) you soon




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