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So far my "go to " is Mr Pro H and Mr Pro L GSI's epoxy putties expensive and not easy to find but worth it pro-h (heavy) good general purpose with a good working time if you use Mr Colour thinners to smooth off if can feather in really well.

Mr Pro-L (light) if you use a bit of talc this will roll down to paper thin great for tarps covers and it will roll up well for bedding and stuff.



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The reason why I'm asking around, is because I'm having to scratchbuild this right here.


It's called a SKEDCO and it used to carry the victims during a rescue. It's kinda replacing the stokes basket as the preferred method of patient transport.




I have the straps and buckles covered already using PE, but I've tried to roll out the AP to a thin piece and it didn't work out well at all.



Edited by Hawkwrench
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Your SKEDCO is basically a flat plastic(?) board curved at certain angles.
I’d use a mix of 70% white milliput and 30% Kneadatite/Duro. The DURO adds flexibility to the Milliput and renders it less fragile especially when rolled into a thin sheet.



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17 hours ago, Hawkwrench said:

Just wanting some opinions on what is better for making tarps, blankets, pouches, etc.

Which is better for workability, stickiness, sanding, and shaping?


I have used AS, but don't like the stickiness. Wanting to know if Milliput is better.





The trick with Apoxie Sculpt is to wait a bit before working it. Also, they make a chemical in a dropper bottle that you apply while you are forming to help smooth it out- you can get it really thin-

Im away from the bench right now, but I’ll try to remember to dig out that chemical for you-


However; you might be able to scratch that out of lead foil formed over a wood master-



Edited by Pete Fleischmann
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I'd try and use plastic sheet 0.010" or thereabouts.  You can cut, form, and bend it as needed.  You can either heat form the curves using a wooden form as Pete suggested or use the PE straps (if they're adhered well enough) to augment hand-made bends.  It might also be easier on you to add those brass ringed holes to a plastic part than in a two-part epoxy part.

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1 minute ago, quang said:

Yeah but how do you pull the formed plasticard out of the wood ‘mould’? :crying:


I would think you would make the wooden mold with a step under it to get the lower edges formed correctly, then leave the mold open at the bottom, and when done just remove the vac pull as normal.

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It took me 15 minutes to do this with only the ICM 1/32 WASP figure as reference. Just to show how the method works.


1- White Milliput balls just prior to be kneaded



2-Milliput thoroughly mixed


3-Rolled into a thin sheet. With plenty of talcum powder


4-Piece of foam representing the ‘casualty’.

5- Milliput sheet cut to shape


6- Fold edges. Edges can be worked for 30minutes while the Mill hardens.
Will fully cure overnight after which it can de drilled, sanded and painted as you wish.



If you have any question, just shoot.



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