Wackyracer Posted February 15, 2021 Share Posted February 15, 2021 Masterful John, truly enjoy your posts and builds. Its difficult to say goodbye to hours of work behind more plastic, plenty of photos are the best way to remember it by. Aaron Thunnus and Scale32 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted February 15, 2021 Share Posted February 15, 2021 I've seen you do it before, but filling those ejector pins in the wheel well look impossible to fill. How do you have a tool to smooth those out, even if it's just punching out discs of plastic? Matt Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted February 15, 2021 Author Share Posted February 15, 2021 10 hours ago, Wackyracer said: Masterful John, truly enjoy your posts and builds. Its difficult to say goodbye to hours of work behind more plastic, plenty of photos are the best way to remember it by. Aaron Thanks Aaron! This area will be visible through the wheel wells although specific additions like the MG151 cannon will be difficult to make out. Which is ok by me. I just wanted to create enough dense detail to make the view into the rear engine area somewhat plausible. 1 hour ago, scvrobeson said: I've seen you do it before, but filling those ejector pins in the wheel well look impossible to fill. How do you have a tool to smooth those out, even if it's just punching out discs of plastic? Matt I've made my own disposable sanding tools using small punched out discs of sand paper superglued to the flattened ends of wooden cocktail sticks. The ejector marks are filled with liquid putty and sanded down using the modified toothpick. F-4Phanwell, Landrotten Highlander, Rivas and 10 others 10 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted February 15, 2021 Share Posted February 15, 2021 That makes sense. Definitely just a tight spot with the raised rivets. I'm guessing the sandpaper runs out pretty quickly being such a tiny piece, so I'm sure you go through dozens of them? Matt Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_K2 Posted February 15, 2021 Share Posted February 15, 2021 I used to get spools of copper wire like that at Radio Shack, but no more. I need to grab some more too, but really haven't located a good source yet. Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pastor John Posted February 15, 2021 Share Posted February 15, 2021 Fantastic work - love it Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted February 15, 2021 Author Share Posted February 15, 2021 1 hour ago, scvrobeson said: That makes sense. Definitely just a tight spot with the raised rivets. I'm guessing the sandpaper runs out pretty quickly being such a tiny piece, so I'm sure you go through dozens of them? Matt I make em as the need arises. Usually a couple will be enough for something like the wheel well part. 1 hour ago, LSP_K2 said: I used to get spools of copper wire like that at Radio Shack, but no more. I need to grab some more too, but really haven't located a good source yet. I got the copper wire from Amazon under jewelry making supplies. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D54TM1G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 1 hour ago, Pastor John said: Fantastic work - love it Thanks Pastor John! Hopefully I'll remember to use your decals for the landing gear legs! LSP_K2 and scvrobeson 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_K2 Posted February 15, 2021 Share Posted February 15, 2021 Thanks a bunch, John, now added to my humongous Amazon "wants" list. Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale32 Posted February 16, 2021 Share Posted February 16, 2021 12 hours ago, Thunnus said: I've made my own disposable sanding tools using small punched out discs of sand paper superglued to the flattened ends of wooden cocktail sticks. The ejector marks are filled with liquid putty and sanded down using the modified toothpick. I've made them out of lengths of sprue and cut the sanding surface on differing angles, makes for a more ergonomic sanding angle and slightly bigger piece of paper. Cheers Bevan Uncarina, Thunnus and Wackyracer 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted February 17, 2021 Author Share Posted February 17, 2021 Great idea Bevan! It's good to repurpose stuff that would otherwise be considered trash. I decided to glue on the resin supercharger intake. I used JB Kwik Weld since the thick consistency helps hold the part in place. It looks good from this perspective but due to the subtle curvature of the fuselage surface, the supercharger base does not lie flat. So I had to use some Milliput to fill the gaps and then Mr Surfacer 1000 to blend everything together. A shot of Mr Primer Surfacer 1000 shows the blend work. Almost too smooth? Ideally, there should probably be a seam line running around the base of the intake. But I am afraid of trying to scribe such an irregular shape without it looking shaky. Especially at the front end where I may not be able to fit a scriber. I'll sit on this for a while and ponder what to do next! Scale32, LSP_Kevin, D.B. Andrus and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_K2 Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 You might consider making a paper template, then drawing the line with a pencil, after that area is painted. That's what I'd probably do. Scale32, Thunnus, Uncarina and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale32 Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 1 hour ago, LSP_K2 said: You might consider making a paper template, then drawing the line with a pencil, after that area is painted. That's what I'd probably do. Or use Tamiya's flexible white tape as a guide to scribe a panel line. It only needs to be deep enough to hold a wash. I've used this tape successfully in the past for tight curves. Cheers Bevan Thunnus and Uncarina 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastterry Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 Well I reckon you should use masking tape and leave a gap of say 1.5 to 2mm all around and paint the 'flange' with thick mr surfacer or similar to give you a raised edge. TRF Uncarina and Thunnus 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Molitor Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 The massive intake is such a dominant feature on this Dora. Your efforts are paying off in spectacular ways. Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted February 17, 2021 Author Share Posted February 17, 2021 Very good suggestions from ya'll. I have an extra resin intake (the Real Model D-13 conversion came with 2). I could use that one to make a scribing template in thin brass sheet so that is another idea. If I mess up, I can always re-fill and do the pencil thing like Kevin suggested. I guess I have some viable options! Thanks guys! Troy Molitor 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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