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Pastor John

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Everything posted by Pastor John

  1. Why try and find one when all you have to do is email me and I will cast one for you! aimsmodels1@gmail.com
  2. Hi everyone, in the post a few days ago from Ukraine, the decals for my AIMS 20th Anniversary since my first ever Ju 88 G-6 product - decal sheet 72D002! This is a large set - 2x A5 decal sheets for 27 options! The decal sheet is designed for those who have bought the 1/32 AIMS conversion set and so some of the markings that are needed - like the crosses - are on the the decal sheet that comes with the conversion set. The printing consists of 13x sides of colour instructions on 135 g/m2 glossy paper - unfolded - in a nice A4 clear envelope. Set with printing = £30.00 (plus shipping) Set with downloaded instructions = £22.00 (plus shipping) This set is only available direct from me Email me at aimsmodels1@gmail.com if interested. Also in the post.... AIMS 32D037 'Bf 110 G-4' With the decals printed for the conversion set all gone a new sheet has been printed as a 'stand alone' product. The conversion set will henceforth be still available but without decals. This way folk can buy the stand alone sheet if they already have the original conversion set. Product is £20.00 available direct from my or Hannants when they order Thanks for looking Best wishes, John
  3. AIMS 32D036 DH Vampire decals now available £18.00. email me at aimsmodels1@gmail.com if interested. Happy New Year to you all, John
  4. Hi everyone, I have some new flexible resin products in 1/48 and 1/32. I have not advertised them with Hannants yet as production not yet in full swing. email me at aimsmodels1@gmail.com if interested 32P050 1x Oxygen hose (also good for braded engine cable) £4.00 32P051 1x MG 151 chute £4.00 32P052 1x MG 131 chute £4.00 32P053 MG 81 Ju 88 A-4 set! 3x chutes and 4x ammo feeds £13.00 32P054 2x MG 151 ammo feeds £7.50 Thanks for looking John
  5. Hi everyone, A few weeks ago my DH Vampire decals arrived in 1/72 and 1/48. There are available already via Hannants Or myself. As for the 1/32 sheets they are on their way to me as I write. Contact me at aimsmodels1@gmail.com if interested, thanks. John
  6. Thanks everyone - much appreciated. Yes hands terrible but I would rather continue than give up. Just trying to live with the nerve damage as best I can
  7. Wonderful - always wanted to do this bird - great finish
  8. Well the photo is always king as I say so it depends - you get a much paler stain on RAF aircraft than you do with Luftwaffe due to the chemicals etc involved but anyway \i spray dark earth first then an arch of black and then the amount of fresh pale burning pigment that the photo shows me. Like I say with Luftwaffe I just do dark earth and then back fill with a charcoal black
  9. So that's my 'quick build' to help advertise my new conversion set lol!
  10. AIMS 1/32 PR/Tac R Hawker Hurricane gallery shots (taken outside - better resolution but the dark blue still looks almost black just like in the WWII photos)
  11. sorry deleted photos that I meant to add to the finished page
  12. All finished - apart from the missing bar across the gap in the front coaming that I mention at the end of my In the Works post. Apart from that - hope you like.
  13. Just spotted that I forgot to but a bar across the gap in the front coaming! Will do latter.
  14. AIMS 1/32 PR/Tac R Hawker Hurricane build update The HGW shoulder straps and back of seat strap were attached - it was then that I realised that HGW gave the instructions and the parts for the Sutton harness on a Spitfire in the Hurricane set - the shoulder straps are joined at the top by a oblong plate on the Hurricane so I had to fabricate that and slice up the harness accordingly. Remember that if the stirrup is down then the hand hold is open! Some breather tubes at the bottom of the engine as well as the fuel indicator at the top of the cowling will make the front end look better. You might also spot the three handles added to the sliding hood as well as the windscreen cleaner pipe at the bottom of the windscreen. The tail area had my AIMS early tail wheel fork attached and the trim tab mass balance fabricated with its cables - as well as the rudder cables. Before the main gear doors were located the flexible brake line at the top was made read and the line at the front of the door added and fed backwards once the door was added. Back to the windscreen and you can see that I used sticky backed mirror material from a hobby shop for the rear view mirror. The only other thing to mention - back at the front end is that I had used one of my two Rotol prop and spinner sets. And that is that. I hope you enjoyed following this. Thanks for looking, John
  15. Hi Paolo, Applying the rivets to a polished bare plastic surface would have been fine I think - I put mine on a glossed primer as I had so much filler everywhere that I just wanted the black resin rivets to stand out as much as possible as wanted a nice photo reference for others. The problem with the painting was it meant I already had two layers of paint over soft Revell detail. Some parts of my model would have looked a lot crisper under the final matt coat if I had had less paint layers. To date I have lost two rivets from handling (that I know of) -(wing tip and cowling) as they have came detached from their glue. I did mask over the rivets to spray on the black anti slip mat and I was worried about the rivets coming off but none of them did. The decals printed in Ukraine are fantastic - they are thin but strong enough for a few moments handling and one or two correction and I can see no backing film. I love them but it would have been best I think to have marked off somehow the borders so that you had a reference point for where to lay directly without any corrections. This I think is perhaps the best way forward unless you are a wiz at making masks and prefer them. The other problem with the masks is that the rivets are high and you will for sure get spray creep in places. Hope that helps
  16. AIMS 1/32 PR/Tac R Hawker Hurricane build update The end is nigh! Pastels, oil streaks, oil splatters and silver pencil scratches and highlighting of the rivets. Ready for final construction and some some small additional details like the handles on the rear canopy and the trim tap mass balance on the rudder etc. Really glad I did those rivets as they kind of make the model what it is.
  17. AIMS 1/32 PR/Tac R Hawker Hurricane build update Hi everyone I have finished the weathering I will do with the airbrush. These poor birds operated in red dust and constant retreat under fire and were a mess which I hope to reflect on my build. Thanks to Robert for the wonderful Rescue Models weathering templates - a real treat to use. Now I must spray everything matt and then can do the oil and pastel weathering plus the final assembly and details. Hope you like.
  18. Mike - not over 0.2mm high chris crossed resin rivets - no matter how much dish soap you use
  19. AIMS 1/32 PR/Tac R Hawker Hurricane build update The rivets catch the light well under a coat of dark glossy blue. i am happy with the look but not looking forward to the problem of bedding down the wing roundels without creases everywhere. I will need to shepherd the decals all the way to drying time I think. If you are doing these rivets on your own build paint masks for the roundels would be better! A few hours latter.......... Decals are on - not many of them - just the insignia and I put just the oil tank Revell stencil on - you can hardly see the black against the dark blue just like in the photos. I am not an authority on the real 'Bonson Blue' and please take what I have done with a pinch of salt but I simply opted to use the darkest blue I had available which happened to be an unopened tin of Xtracolor X121 FS15042 'Gloss sea Blue' with a few drops of a crimson colour - in this case - again just what I had - Humbrol Gloss 20. Mixed with 30% white spirit in an empty glass jar I got one of the shiniest finishes of my life but it has been so long that i used Xtracolor enamel for a whole model that it was strange leaving it for day before turning over to do the other side and then days after that hardening. As for the decals well the rivets are a real problem here - not as i feared due to creases as if you press own with a soft cloth immediately and get them bedded down the decal solution does not start to crease them - you can then spray a little more solution on later! Anyway the big problem is that it is just impossible to slide the upper and lower wing roundels into position and I had to remove everyone once more and more accurately apply following the photo of the machine. It was a hairy experience but I managed it. Paint masks would be less stressful. As for the upper roundel overlapping the aileron - this was against regulations as it then required the aileron to be re-balanced so I carefully removed the overlapping decal segment. It might well have been applied against reg's but we will never know. Hope you like so far
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