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1/32 Trumpeter SBD-5 Dauntless in New Zealand markings w/ full Archer rivet replacement - DONE


Brett M

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Updates, fixes and some step by steps.....

 

Got a good portion of work done today, then stepped over to modeling afterwards (see what I did there?). 

 

First off, fixes to the bars on the wing and to the insignia on the fuselage. I thought I'd show what I did, step by step, though this will be no where near as detailed as what Chuck kindly shows us!

 

First off, masking and re-placing the masks previously used. All Tamiya tape is de-tact first by pressing against the skin several times (watch for arm hair!)

 

_DSC9105

 

Followed by a shot of Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 black

 

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Then with MRP Insignia Blue

_DSC9107

 

And we end up with this. Much happier now with the wing bars. 

_DSC9108

 

 

Next, we turn to the starboard insignia. Again starting off with masks and tape to hold everything in place, then with a coat of MRP Insignia White for the bars and roundel, plus the future home of the yellow band. 

 

_DSC9109

 

Next, masks for the white bars and the white roundel. 

 

_DSC9110

 

Some MRP RAF Marking Yellow

 

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More masking. The thin strips to cover the yellow....made sure they wouldn't move with some extra help. 

 

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Some more Mr Finishing Surfacer

 

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MRP Insignia blue for the bars. This does NOT cover well, which is why I added the black first. Otherwise, I'd have to come back 5 times with the airbrush.

_DSC9114

 

MRP RAF Marking blue for the roundel. MUCH better coverage, a single coat and done. 

_DSC9115

 

 

And we end up here. Tiny spot of paint pull in the white, which is surprising after I cleaned the surface before I started all of this. Oh well! I don't mind that little fix. 

 

_DSC9116

 

Moving along nicely though. I have two items to paint on each side of the tail, then onto a light gloss and stencils. 

 

Lemme know what you think!

 

Edited by Brett M
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On 12/6/2020 at 5:59 PM, Brett M said:

Not quite as happy with the fuselage work. Peeling paint off......which, I'm guessing is caused by dust, since I'm using MRP for all colors so far.

 

As you discovered when doing the fuselage, it's not dust - it's lack of adhesion. It's too late now, but in the future apply a wet coat of thinner over everything to insure a molecular bond between the paint layers. It's the beautiful thing about lacquers - their property of being able to re-wet and bond between layers, not to mention the smooth sheen achievable. 

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5 hours ago, The Madhatter said:

That is just sweet as bro! Love it B)

I wish I had your painting talents - that's for sure! What's on the bench after this?

**cough** sci-fi  :whistle:

I do have a number of starships....and I keep saying the AT-ST would be fun. It’s Bandai, toss it in a bag with paint, shake, and it will build itself!

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On 12/6/2020 at 4:10 PM, D.B. Andrus said:

Beautiful, Brett! 

 

Yeah, maybe a couple more coats on the Insignia Blue on the wing bars, pretty bright.

 

Otherwise, modeling doesn't get any better than this.

 

Cheers,

Damian

100% agreed with you, Damian. I think they look much better now that they're darkened up. 

On 12/6/2020 at 4:43 PM, AlbertD said:

That little paint lift will cover just fine. It looks great otherwise. I like the different blues in the bars and roundel's. It really helps tell the story of the plane.

Yep, quick clean up and off we go. And you're right, slightly different shades to help say, "this isn't a US plane anymore!"

On 12/6/2020 at 5:53 PM, Uncarina said:

Great work Brett! I’m impressed that the rivets are doing fine when the masks are removed. 

 

Cheers,  Tom

Thanks, Tom! I've been impressed too. Woody makes a good product and they're holding up just fine to me man handling the plane around. I haven't seen any spots where they've come off. 

On 12/6/2020 at 6:46 PM, Rockie Yarwood said:

Wow, Brett, she's really beautiful! 

Thanks!

On 12/6/2020 at 10:31 PM, chuck540z3 said:

Easy fixes Brett.  Beautiful paint work otherwise.

 

Cheers,

Chuck

Thanks Chuck! @chuck540z3 question for you though. I bought those metal liner washes, tried the warm aluminum on my cowl and it didn't go as planned, to say the least. From the pictures I've shared, does the sheen of my Dauntless not seem....as shiny? as your bird was? Trying to understand why I had a mess on mine, with the metaliner leaving a layer of metallic EVERYWHERE it touched.

14 hours ago, Oldbaldguy said:

And this is why I don’t sleep well anymore.  I spend all my quiet time trying to figure out how the heck you’re able to make this look so easy. 

Tamiya tape, lots of it! :)

7 hours ago, Rockie Yarwood said:

Brilliant!

Thanks Rockie!

6 hours ago, MikeMaben said:

 

        I think it's pretty damcool  :speak_cool::popcorn:

Thanks Mike!

1 hour ago, Archer Fine Transfers said:

 

As you discovered when doing the fuselage, it's not dust - it's lack of adhesion. It's too late now, but in the future apply a wet coat of thinner over everything to insure a molecular bond between the paint layers. It's the beautiful thing about lacquers - their property of being able to re-wet and bond between layers, not to mention the smooth sheen achievable. 

Interesting....I would have thought MRP was hot enough. From what you're saying to do, you would have sprayed a coat of thinner on each successive layer to help ensure a bond? 

42 minutes ago, Troy Molitor said:

Brett,  that is one cracking Dauntless.   Wow.   

Thanks Troy!

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1 hour ago, Brett M said:

 

Thanks Chuck! @chuck540z3 question for you though. I bought those metal liner washes, tried the warm aluminum on my cowl and it didn't go as planned, to say the least. From the pictures I've shared, does the sheen of my Dauntless not seem....as shiny? as your bird was? Trying to understand why I had a mess on mine, with the metaliner leaving a layer of metallic EVERYWHERE it touched.

 

 

 

I had the same problem, but as noted in my Tempest thread, the key is to add the wash and remove it withing about 30 seconds, or else it sticks too hard and removal is very difficult.  Once I did that, I had no problems with it again.  With your raised Archer rivets, however, I wouldn't be using this product.  Sometimes you need to really scrub it and raised rivet removal is possible.

 

Cheers,

Chuck

Edited by chuck540z3
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8 minutes ago, chuck540z3 said:

 

 

I had the same problem, but as noted in my Tempest thread, the key is to add the wash and remove it withing about 30 seconds, or else it sticks too hard and removal is very difficult.  Once I did that, I had no problems with it again.  With your raised Archer rivets, however, I wouldn't be using this product.  Sometimes you need to really scrub it and raised rivet removal is possible.

 

Cheers,

Chuck


Thanks Chuck, appreciate the reply. I went after the wash pretty quickly, but thought it might have been something else I’d missed! 

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4 hours ago, Brett M said:

Interesting....I would have thought MRP was hot enough. From what you're saying to do, you would have sprayed a coat of thinner on each successive layer to help ensure a bond?

If it doesn't go down wet, yes I would. You need enough thinner to not only carry the paint from the airbrush to the model, but also wet the layer underneath. Regardless, I always hose down my paint when finished. I love the sheen.

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