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Matchbox 1/32 Bf109E-3 Resurrection


turbo
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The next layer of weathering consisted of some subtle salt fading on the upper surfaces and fuselage and addition of some stains and grime to the lower surfaces. I used light grey enamels diluted around 1:10 with thinners for the salt fading which won't react with any residual water in the salt crystals. As well as further fading the camo, salt fading introduces an interesting effect resembling stains and splotches.

 

salt-fading-a-web.jpg

 

Despite careful cleaning of the salt, small crystals often randomly appear in the days following salt fading. You can see some on the machine gun access hatch in the picture above. I'll give it a few days and carefully clean all of these off before proceeding to the next stage.


salt-fading-b-web.jpg

 

Some staining and grime was introduced to the lower surfaces using enamels.


staining-web.jpg
 

I'll let these layers cure for a few days before moving on to the next stage...

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On 5/25/2020 at 10:49 AM, Thunnus said:

Excellent!  I love the salt fading and use it on most of my builds but those salt crystals can be a pain.  A clear flat will really trigger it so now do the salt fading AFTER all of my clear coats.

 

Thanks John! I think there's a lot of merit in doing salt fading at the end after the final clear coat, including best preserving the effect - unfortunately I still have another layer of weathering with oils to come I want over the top of the fading so still need the gloss coat to work on. Will need to be vigilant with the salt...

 

On 5/25/2020 at 10:50 AM, Troy Molitor said:

Can’t believe this is the Matchbox kit. Awesome efforts.  Camo is spot on.  

 

Thanks Troy, appreciate it!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hasn't been much modelling going on recently unfortunately! Just a short update, next layer of weathering on the undersides using oils.

 

staining-a-web.jpg

 

Those bare wheel wells hurt my eyes, but I committed to doing this as a heritage build sans AM so I'm going to have to live with it. Hopefully people won't look under the model very often!

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The lack of wheel well structure/details does look a little odd compared to the attention given to other aspects but I understand your choice! At least it will be unseen most of the time!

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/10/2020 at 9:12 PM, LSP_Kevin said:

Your exquisite paint work more than makes up for any intrinsic lack of detail in the kit!

 

Thanks very much Kev, appreciate it!

 

On 6/11/2020 at 3:17 AM, Thunnus said:

The lack of wheel well structure/details does look a little odd compared to the attention given to other aspects but I understand your choice! At least it will be unseen most of the time!

 

I must admit it felt a bit incongruous applying detailed weathering around those wheel wells! After being off the bench for a good while though, I'm using this heritage build to get the mojo flowing again and as an opportunity to practice and experiment with a few techniques, so I'm not too fussed.

 

Next layer of weathering is done on the top side, back with pics soon ...

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  • 4 weeks later...

Been busy the last few weekends and lost a bit of momentum with this one, so time to make a lunge for the finishing line. I applied a flat coat to seal the weathering so far and get the model towards its final finish. Despite washing the model with soapy water before flat coating, the next morning I was greeted by the dreaded salt re-crystallisation. 

salt-a-web.jpg

 

It was even worse on the port wing where I was obviously slack in drying off the model after washing it.


salt-b-web.jpg

 

This is an occupational hazard of using the salt fading technique. I still don't quite understand why it happens, but fortunately there is a relatively simple fix. I moistened the affected areas with soapy water and gently buffed with a soft sponge to resolve the problem.


salt-c-web.jpg


salt-d-web.jpg

 

Having averted that mini disaster, I proceeded to the next layer of weathering with some chipping using a silver prismacolor pencil. I still have some other parts of the airframe to do with a darker shade,

 

chipping-a-web.jpg

 

The prop blades were painted black by the original owner, so these were stripped and repainted RLM 70 and weathered by salt fading and sponge chipping. I've found this is a good combination for weathering props and I'm fairly happy with how it's turned out.

 

prop-web.jpg

 

Into the home straight now - just exhausts, some final weathering bits and pieces, and final assemby and she'll be done. Thanks for stopping by!

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Sure, this kit doesn't stand up to todays standards with Dragon, Eduard or Cyber Hobby offerings however, the shape and representation Matchbox put into their molds back in the day and the exceptional efforts you have put into this old girl, she is still a stunner to admire.  Seriously. You have shown us the old school molds and new technics and care can still present an older kit and what can actually be done to her after all these years.  The painting is superb.  

  

I purchased several of these kits in the 90's when they were on the clearance rack for $3-4 USD.  I still have them and I simply can't part with them.  

 

Well done Turbo! Well done.    

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@Troy, indeed, Matchbox had the balls even in the seventies to kit aircraft that other manufacturers wouldn't dare to. Spitfire 24, Lysander, Venom as well as the many other exotic types in the 1/72 scales such as Wellesly, Heyford, Victor etc. Judging a seventies kit with a twenties brush isn't really fair.

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