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Brass casting LSP gear


Out2gtcha

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I dont know what's exactly the problem with the HPH Tigercat................................

 

 

Unfortunately Nicolas,

HpH have chosen to "pin" the nosegear directly through the leg and into the wheel itself with a brass pin.

 

IMG_5379-XL.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

I was highly disappointed by this, as TBH, I expect much, MUCH more from such a high end detail oriented (not to mention EXPENSIVE) kit. Its not at all the sort of thing I would expect to see on a model that breaches the $300 mark. 

Edited by Out2gtcha
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Mmmm, indeed, that's not what i'd have expected....

 

Are we sure it's the way the final kit will be?

 

 

 

As for the brass LG, i'm in for 2 or maybe 3 sets for the Bronco, and one for the F7F, too.

And also for the Revell Phantoms, please !

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Mmmm, indeed, that's not what i'd have expected....

 

Are we sure it's the way the final kit will be?

 

 

No, Im not 100% sure the final product will end up like that, but judging from their Ta-154 (which has brass pinned MLG) , Im guessing its the way the production kits will go

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I've done a few masters for G-Factor as well, it is a very labor intensive process. I know that the slowdown with the Ju-88 gear that Alan did was because he had done such a good job, and the great was so complex that it made recasting them really tough.  It's also what's holding up the Bronco gear. The geometry and detail is so tough to capture in one piece, that you pretty much lose your master mold every time

 

 

 

 

 

Matt  :frantic:

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So you have to remake the ceramic moulds for every copy you make?

 

Kev

Yes

 

 

you can also cast brass in an RTV mold with a centrifical broken arm casting machine but the molds don't last very long

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Brass and bronze are very tough, but require a high temperature (870° C/1598° F for bronze and 904°C / 1660° C for brass) to melt down. Hence the need for ceramic molds and the lost wax process.

 

Zamak (an alloy of zinc, aluminium, magnesium and copper), which is what SAC SHOULD be using (but obviously don't, when you look at their very soft alloy, which contains a very high percentage of crapium, certainly), melts down at 400° C and can be used in vulcanised rubber molds in a centrifugal casting machine. It is widely used in modelling (one of my customers, who produces 1/43 trucks, use it all the time for casting the chassis and cabins of its trucks), and is strong enough for modelling applications, including 1/32 landing gears. This could be an alternative ... Of course, Zamak can also be injected in a steel mold, if you want to ...

 

As for the OV-10 gear, I do not understand why, given its complex shape, it would not be cast in two parts, a bit like the 1:1 gear (I know it has many more parts given the articulations). After all modellers use strong glues regularly to assemble stuff, don't they ? Epoxy / JB Weld to the rescue !

 

Hubert

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Brass and bronze are very tough, but require a high temperature (870° C/1598° F for bronze and 904°C / 1660° C for brass) to melt down. Hence the need for ceramic molds and the lost wax process.

 

Zamak (an alloy of zinc, aluminium, magnesium and copper), which is what SAC SHOULD be using (but obviously don't, when you look at their very soft alloy, which contains a very high percentage of crapium, certainly), melts down at 400° C and can be used in vulcanised rubber molds in a centrifugal casting machine. It is widely used in modelling (one of my customers, who produces 1/43 trucks, use it all the time for casting the chassis and cabins of its trucks), and is strong enough for modelling applications, including 1/32 landing gears. This could be an alternative ... Of course, Zamak can also be injected in a steel mold, if you want to ...

 

As for the OV-10 gear, I do not understand why, given its complex shape, it would not be cast in two parts, a bit like the 1:1 gear (I know it has many more parts given the articulations). After all modellers use strong glues regularly to assemble stuff, don't they ? Epoxy / JB Weld to the rescue !

 

Hubert

 

A few years ago, i had the idea to use linotype alloy. It's the alloy (lead, tin and antimony) which was used to cast the letters for the old type printing press. I use some to cast hardened bullets. It's very hard compared to pure lead, but i dont know if it would be strong enough for a skinny gear leg.

It melts at a higher temperature than lead, but not as high as brass or bronze. And i think the casting can be made in high temperature RTV (the type used to cast lead figures)

Edited by Zero77
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Got some really good dialog going guys! This is the reason I put this thread up, to get some conversations rolling about how best we could get strong gear made for our largest and heaviest models.

I'm hoping Shanes contact bares fruit, as it sounds like it might be the easiest to do.

Failing that, I would have NO problem using JB Weld to put a two piece brass OV-10 MLG

Edited by Out2gtcha
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While not applicable to our hobby, a related process is lost foam casting. Saturn (remember those cars?) used to cast their engine blocks this way. Styrofoam pieces were embedded in sand, and molten aluminum poured into the mold. The styrofoam would vaporize, leaving the cavity hollow. If anyone has ever seen one of their engine blocks, it has the characteristic pebbling (like a coffee cup) from the foam.

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