Propellor advice, WWII weathering.

[mpk]

Hi guys.

 

I read recently on the site that chipping prop' edges was not very realistic. I also read that the back of the blades used to wear heavily.

 

Being a muppet, I am unsure how to achieve the realistic result. I don't really know what's right, even though I look at old photos. 

 

This is what I have done to a Ki-44 propellor. 

 

Please point out areas where this can be improved. My feelings won't be hurt. Just tell me the story.

 

Many thanks.

 

 

 

 

 

[LSP_K2]

I'm not sure why anyone would say it's unrealistic. Depending on the environment as well as other factors, blades could indeed be heavily abraded and chipped. Perhaps not as exaggerated as some folks like to make them, but it did happen. Your best bet (as usual) is to study actual period photos of the specific subject.

[mpk]

Thanks mate.

 

Often I find it hard to see clearly due to reflection, antique photos etc. For example...

 

 

 

This A/C looks quite new.

 

 

Just unsure...

[Gazzas]

 

Yours don't look much different, mate.

[Gazzas]

Oops...photo for discussion only.

[Gerhard]

That looks fine to me. 

[mpk]

 

 

Yours don't look much different, mate.

 

You been peeking???

 

 

Oops...photo for discussion only.

 

Sure mate.

 

That looks fine to me. 

 

 

Thank you.

 

I just need to rub it back a bit. I'll do that tomorrow I guess.

 

The propellor, Gazza!

 

 

Bloody Queenslanders.

 

So good at football.....         

 

[TonyT]

Metal props will have leading edge wear back to bare metal and pitting, out towards the tip and about 3/4 off the way in, the area near the hub will get little if any, there will be very little on the front of the blades if any at all, most of it will on the rear of the blades.. I know sounds odd, but that is how it happens. If you want I could take some pictures for you.

[Finn]

Here is a Betty's prop:

 

http://histomil.com/download/file.php?id=31485

 

Jari

[Joe66]

I think the prop you did looks great. Props to you mate !

 

Joe

[BiggTim]

Looks good to me, Dale!

[Joe66]

Ok...I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say that I'm pretty sure this prop has chipping ......

 

 

[b757captain]

I'm going to throw my 2 cents worth in here, take it for what it;s worth:

 

1. Prop wear depends on the base material used, i.e, wood, aluminum or steel

2. Prop wear depends on the external conditions, i.e., grass runways, coral runways, ship-board use, etc.

3. Prop wear depends on the age of the prop! New = new, old might equal new or old. See #4

4. Prop wear depends on who built (or re-built/serviced the prop most recently)

5. Prop weathering depends on the external conditions

6. Prop weathering depends on the aircraft (mostly engine) condition

 

1. Wood props tend to wear the least and won't generally show chipping. Not a good idea to chip the LE of a Stuka prop (lots of them were wood). Aluminum props will wear differently than steel props. It's been my experience(mostly civilian but the concept is the same with military) that steel will show LE chips more readily, aluminum props will show wear as erosion. In most cases, wear/chipping will be present on the outer 1/3 of the blade.

 

2. Grass runways will exhibit the least wear. Coral probably the most, mainly due to the abrasives picked up by the prop with the engine at takeoff power. Show prop wear according to the subject you want to model based on its location.

 

3 & 4. All props received some sort of maintenance and most high-performance aircraft had short engine/prop overhaul times. Some not at all due to the possible short combat life span of the aircraft, but if your subject spent any length of time in active service, guaranteed the prop came off for maintenance or overhaul. Props from the factory would tend to have the best paint job, field units would sometimes be less inclined to pretty things up or would not have top quality paints on hand. Sometimes a brand new prop would show up on a weather-beaten airframe, and vice-versa.

 

4. I set my drink down somewhere around here, anybody seen it?

 

5. Props on aircraft used in benign conditions (grass fields, nicely paved asphalt runways, etc., will see the least weathering. Conversely, harsh conditions such as desert or sandy areas or S. Pacific coral runways will usually see the extremes in weathering.

 

6. As a rule, well maintained props will be less likely to show much weathering and this has a lot to do with the unit's overall ability to perform maintenance. In the civilian world a leaky prop seal will not go long before the prop is removed for service. Some combat units might not have that luxury and oil streaks and stains, greasy hand prints, chipped paint, gouges and the like will remain on what is signed off as a serviceable prop far longer than a non-combat unit's aircraft.

 

Mostly basics , and the moral of the story is - show prop wear and weathering as you see fit - there are no hard rules. I tend to weather the prop in concert with the airframe (but admittedly I'm lazy and I drink!).

 

Not gonna touch the back-side of the prop wears more than the front other than to say that propeller aerodynamics disagrees.

 

2nd to last statement - turbofan engines are basically great big 33(ish) bladed ducted propellers with a jet engine driving them 

 

Last statement - for me, nowadays, props are for boats!

 

Remember, I drink 

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

Edited April 19, 2017 by b757captain

[mpk]

Awesome!

 

Thanks all.

 

[TonyT]

 

 

Not gonna touch the back-side of the prop wears more than the front other than to say that propeller aerodynamics disagrees.

 

 

When a prop rotates the blade is angled to the airflow and the relative airflow striking the prop is to the rear face, hence the damage tend to be from gravel and detritus picked up and hitting that face... 

 

 

Edited April 19, 2017 by TonyT