Jump to content

Thunda

LSP_Members
  • Content Count

    372
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Thunda

  • Rank
    Hooked For Life
  • Birthday 11/23/1965

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Dundee, Scotland

Recent Profile Visitors

193 profile views
  1. Thunda

    1/32 CF104 Italeri

    Superb. Bravo.
  2. Thunda

    S-3B Viking - scratchbuilt

    Fantastic work- exceptional!
  3. Thunda

    3D printed N1K1-J

    Yes, pretty much, just in 3 axis (x,y & z).
  4. Thunda

    3D printed N1K1-J

    Its a huge program, and difficult to describe in a sentence or two, but very roughly, with a side view, you import the drawing into your 3D program (Rhino in this case) and assign it to the 'X' axis, then you can start marking reference points on it. The program will draw lines between assigned points and fill in areas between them. You can also draw lines between two points then 'drag' a curve by moving the mouse. You can also 'group' reference points and move them together or assign behaviours to them. To make a 3D object from the drawing, you need to have points on the 'X' and the 'Y' axis joined up. I dont know if that makes sense- like I say, its difficult to describe in a few sentences!
  5. Thunda

    3D printed N1K1-J

    Small update on work on the cowling air scoops- we will be thinning the edges and the fillets within the scoops:
  6. Thunda

    3D printed N1K1-J

    Hi All- yes, sorry for the confusion- Im doing the land based N1K1-J. I know that Revell did the much fabled very short run kit from the 1970's- long out of production and virtually unavailable secondhand. Ive always preferred the look of the K1- it was shorter, different tail, mid winged and more pugnacious looking than the later K2. More updates to follow.....
  7. Thunda

    F-104G Seat

    Ah- the F104 G. Dont know if any of you know this 1974 'satirical concept album' by Bob Calvert of Hawkwind, under the pen name of 'Captain Lockheed & the Starfighters' ? The single from the album was called 'Ejection' and the 'concept' was all about the short and eventful career of the F104G in German ownership. The album was banned by the BBC for its political insensitivity as it pointed out the habit of the F104G for parting company with its wings which led to a 29% crash rate/108 pilots killed and it being known in the Luftwaffe as ‘der Witwenmacher’.If you like your early 70's rock its definitely worth a listen.... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Captain_Lockheed_and_the_Starfighters https://www.loudersound.com/features/greatest-albums-of-the-70s-59-1
  8. Thunda

    Kawanishi N1K1 Kyofu Type 11 Rex

    Wow- thats some seriously impressive work....
  9. Thunda

    3D printed N1K1-J

    Ok folks, so after bending the technicians ear, this is the situation regarding print quality. For the final quality print, we will be using the Ultimaker 3 printer. Here are the nozzles sizes and associated filaments: 0.25 mm nozzle: 150 - 60 micron 0.40 mm nozzle: 200 - 20 micron 0.80 mm nozzle: 600 - 20 micron So best quality is 20 microns, and seeings as the human eye cannot detect anything smaller than 40 microns, Im quite happy with that. Heres a photos of examples of a print done at what they consider 'medium' quality- unfortunately, the camera on my mobile doesnt do closeups well, but I can assure you, the lines were barely visible even at this quality:
  10. Thunda

    3D printed N1K1-J

    Some small progress on the cowling: As you can see, the scoop on the right has the lip rounded off, although still requires a small fillet to smooth it into the profile. It also needs the internal fillets modelling. Once we've sorted the scoops, we'll do the exhaust cutouts and seperate the cowling from the fuselage, and at that stage might do a test print of that section. Im having trouble locating an engine- Ive got a Hasegawa N1K2 George and a Ki84 Frank kit, which both have a decent rendition of the Homare radial, but I dont want to make a perfectly good kit unbuildable by using the engine elsewhere, so Im going to look into making a resin cast of the cylinders and front casing. However, if anyone happens to have one kicking around, please let me know- happy to pay for one and would make life alot easier. As for the discussion on the quality of print- Ill need to check with the technician down there, but its my understanding we have the ability to print 'super-fine' for medical purposes- it might not be with the Ultimaker machines- we have several different types of 3D printer, not just the ones in the photo- (theres a whole other room at the back of the workshop photo.) Either way, I expect there will be some sort of visible texture from the print, and as I said before, that will be dealt with with either high build primer or Mr Surfacer and then any small panel lines scribed by hand- was going to print the control surfaces seperately, but as theres some interest as to the print quality, Ill find out and report back..
  11. Thunda

    3D printed N1K1-J

    Yeah, I think theres been some confusion- I didnt mean I was using the recycled filament for this job- just that we had recently bought the equipment to recycle- recycled filament would only be used for first prints and prototypes. You are correct about layer lines being an issue- this is due to the size of the nozzle that the filament passes through. We use thick ones for prototypes (less passes required= faster print but lower quality) and really fine ones for a final piece. We have exceptionally fine ones for the medical prints that we do, and we'll be using those for the final print of this aircraft. Any ridges will be dealt with by using high build primer and/or Mr Surfacer. Working on the cowling later today so hopefully have some updates.
  12. Thunda

    3D printed N1K1-J

    Its Duncan of Jordanstone College of Art & Design, which is part of the University of Dundee, Scotland. Im the workshop manager for the college, so this is one of the facilities Im responsible for. https://www.dundee.ac.uk/djcad/ seiran01- Have you tried Sketchup? Its open source (free) and there are several plugins you can get that assist with 3D modelling- alot of our students use it. AlexM on here is modelling a gorgeous B26 Marauder using it. dodgem37- we have various ways of scanning 3D, but its one area we could do with upgrading. One way we do larger objects is using a turntable and a DSLR camera- take a number of photos whilst moving the object around on the turntable, then the software stiches it together.
  13. Thunda

    3D printed N1K1-J

    Mainly Rhino 3D, but we can import pretty much any vector based file, so illustrator, In Design etc can be used to draw individual parts and then imported and added to the model. We export via .dxf files.
  14. I recently used some of the AK Extreme metals on a NMF Ki61 and was impressed by the results- much easier to work with than Alclad, although the Alcad finish looks more realistic 'metal' to me before weathering.
  15. Thunda

    3D printed N1K1-J

    Heres a few pictures of our facility: We deal with students from right acrodd the University, from fine artists and designers, to forensic & medical artists, to dental technicians and medical students. You can see here we've got some examples- on the left are human hearts (everyone thinks they are 'alien eggs' because they still have the support structures attached!), half a human skull, at the bottom a jaw bone with printed teeth, in the middle a dragons skull, on the right the skeleton of a dwarf who lived in Edinburgh in the 1800's. This was part of forensics students project and this was eventually done full size with fleshed out body, glass eyes etc- so realistic it was extremely creepy.... An example of some of the 3D printers we have- they are all named after characters in TV detective shows for the purposes of booking out, so you can see Rockford, Starsky & Hutch, Cagney & Lacy, Monk & Ironside, so the students come in and say "Ive booked 2 hours with Ironside". Under the desk you can see some reels of the filament we use for the prints. We have recently bought a machine which recycles both the pff cuts of filament and the plastic reels into more filament. A worthwhile purchase...
×