Out2gtcha Posted December 20, 2013 Share Posted December 20, 2013 Totally killer work Peter!! amazing work again! I have a quick question re: scale hardware nuts and bolts - there are many size options given on the website, but I have no idea which ones to order - 0.02mm may as well mean 0.02 metres to me as I have no frame of reference. How did you know which ones to buy? Do they do a 'lucky dip' type of set with different sizes? Thanks Hey Rich, I use the SH hex nuts on a LOT of my builds and they do work great. I found that I only used the nuts from .5mm to 1.0mm. The 1.0mm nuts were actually quite big for most applications it seems, and I used them substantially less than the .5mm nuts and a LOT less than the .8mm nuts. I usually buy multiple sets of both brass and stainless in the sizes and amounts I found I needed/used the most. Im not sure which sizes Peter uses, but the SH orders for me usually come in the form of: X.1 or 2 packages of 5mm (QUITE small for most applications) X 2 or 3 packages of .8mm (*.8 seems a nice size for most things in general IMHO) X1 or 2 packages of 1.0mm (QUITE large for most applications) I also found that I seemed to use the brass versions of the nuts more often than the stainless ones for whatever reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airscale Posted December 20, 2013 Author Share Posted December 20, 2013 Brilliant work on the ignition leads for the outside bank of spark-plugs Peter. Just be sure that you have enough clearance between the plug lead assemblies and the exhaust pipes. I found, on my Spitfire build, that there was very little room there especially after the cowl support frames we offered up to the engine. Cheers, Wolf think you are right Wolf - when I offered them up I don't think they will fit I will have to make the engine bearer and see what I can play with.. I found that I only used the nuts from .5mm to 1.0mm. The 1.0mm nuts were actually quite big for most applications it seems, and I used them substantially less than the .5mm nuts and a LOT less than the .8mm nuts. me too - the ones in the pics are 0.5mm at the spark plug and 0.8mm where the connector is joined to the ignition wire - these are the sizes with the most applications I also stuck some of the bolt heads into plasticine to make moulds as I use so many I tried casting a few in resin - seems to work but are ultra fiddly as they don't have the 'shank' to hold on to Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted December 20, 2013 Share Posted December 20, 2013 Fantastically well executed, Peter. Sincerely, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richdlc Posted December 20, 2013 Share Posted December 20, 2013 Totally killer work Peter!! Hey Rich, I use the SH hex nuts on a LOT of my builds and they do work great. I found that I only used the nuts from .5mm to 1.0mm. The 1.0mm nuts were actually quite big for most applications it seems, and I used them substantially less than the .5mm nuts and a LOT less than the .8mm nuts. I usually buy multiple sets of both brass and stainless in the sizes and amounts I found I needed/used the most. Im not sure which sizes Peter uses, but the SH orders for me usually come in the form of: X.1 or 2 packages of 5mm (QUITE small for most applications) X 2 or 3 packages of .8mm (*.8 seems a nice size for most things in general IMHO) X1 or 2 packages of 1.0mm (QUITE large for most applications) I also found that I seemed to use the brass versions of the nuts more often than the stainless ones for whatever reason. good stuff mate, thanks! Incidentally, is there such a thing as hexagonal plastic rod in these sizes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airscale Posted December 21, 2013 Author Share Posted December 21, 2013 evening ladies ..bit more done before we leave for the US for Christmas.. ..Wolf was right - the ignition leads don't fit - and not only that, they are buried under and behind the exhaust pipes... so, never mind I can either rob the bits back, or use them in othe places around the engine.. ..I started by making the ignition conduit and just added the ignition leads to this... carefully drilled the holes at an angle & threaded lead wire into them... ..also cast all the exhaust pipes for one side of the merlin, and the same side for the nacelle that won't have an exposed engine...these were sprayed with alclad and then a mix made up to discolour the pipe tips.. ..a bit of sooty weathering and I dry fitted them to the cylinder head - as you can see the ignition wires are now barely visible... ..the weld beads became visible with some careful painting... ..and dry fitted to the engine... ..pretty happy how they turned out, but then they do represent about 8 hours at the bench... ..just need to repeat the whole process to make the pipes for the other cylinder bank - jeesh will do that when I am back after New Year thats it for now my friends.. TTFNPeter Lars Befring and fastzx 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf Buddee Posted December 21, 2013 Share Posted December 21, 2013 Awesome Peter! Your attention to detail is remarkable and I'm absolutely inspired by what you do. Two thumbs up! Have a wonderful Christmas and a healthy, happy, and prosperous 2014! Cheers, Wolf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geedubelyer Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 The new exhausts look marvellous, especially under a coat of paint. Perhaps you could recoup some of the man hours by offering them back to HPH as an aftermarket improvement? The Merlin is beginning to look 1:1 Stupendous craftsmanship Peter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 Peter Brilliant work but that has become the norm, with each update, the detailing is reaching a new level. Keep 'em coming Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airscale Posted January 14, 2014 Author Share Posted January 14, 2014 evening all and Happy New Year so... it's been a good 3 weeks away from the bench what with spending the holidays in the US - wild weather too, 80 degrees one day 40 degrees the next...still a great time had by all but now I am back I need to re-orientate myself with what I was doing on the Hornet.... ..I was trying to work out how to do the cockpit as HpH have not chosen the traditional route - you have to assemble the fuselage sides, put the cockpit in from the top and slide the wings through the slot in the middle... ..this doesn't suit what I want to do as I have lots of detail to add to the cockpit so want full and easy access to it in both fuselage halves before assembly - I needed to work out if I can insert the wings afterwards from each side and whether the geometry stacks up.. ..first a look at the wings taped up with the spar parts - these ensure correct dihedral so I will have to watch out in the future when I get to that.. ...this is how it should be assembled... ..the spar position is where it should be in real life when slipped through the fuselage... ..I mocked up where the headrest goes - this is not a full bulkhead, it is half the depth of the fuselage and sort of hangs in the air so the cockpit is all pretty open around the seat... (this is not how HpH have it though...) ...I added a floor and now I can see how it all goes together I will probably put false walls on the fuselage halves covering the front of the wing slots so I can assemble the fuselage in two halves - then I can insert the wings separately later...(much later...) ...I see lots of complicated cockpit scratchbuilding in my future and apologise in advance to anyone tuning in for an HpH Hornet build all the best everyone.. TTFN Peter Uilleann, Iain and fastzx 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Very interesting Peter... <making notes> Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Peter Welcome back and glad you had a great time here in the states. Nice to see you back at the bench and working out the details for the wings and front offcie Keep 'em coming Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 Your build is really tempting me to buy one of these kits. The engine detailing is really beautiful, and the way the wing and fuselage is constructed is something I've never seen before. At least it means that the wings should be nice and even and aligned. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ripaman Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 Looking good Peter, missed your updates, hope you had a good Christmas and Happy new year to you. Regards Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airscale Posted January 17, 2014 Author Share Posted January 17, 2014 thanks chaps ..been enjoying myself with a dremel and bits of plastic card lately - I needed to add cockpit walls, so thinned all the interior walls with a burr and sandpaper and marked out where the floor sits against the fuselage halves... ...then I was ready to separate the fuselage halves after earlier adding the rear cockpit area to correct the kit shape - used one of Radu's micro saws for a super clean cut.. ..soon I had the two halves again and was checking how thick the canopy sills would be after adding the skin of the walls. I found the answer was too thick... While I was checking reference pictures, I also found the cockpit sill is actually outside the fuselage on the the canopy rails that run all the way along the outside edges of the cockpit and down the fuselage ..this meant the cockpit sills needed lowering so I chopped out a bit more of the fuselage... ..here a brass strip shows how the rail is on the outside of the fuselage, and how the internal sill is lowered to the bottom of the rail as on the real aircraft... ...after a few hours of fiddling about with templates, and a failed attempt to make the walls by plunge moulding, I finally had the shapes I wanted. I am in huge debt to David Collins again for help figuring out the shapes & proportions - particularly the curved spar cover area.. ..they were CA'd to the fuselage, very carefully so as not to crack or distort the top of the fuselage halves which by now were pretty thin... ..lots of dry fitting to make sure everything checks out... ..here you can see how the side walls run up to the spar and how much they cover the hole where the kit wing would slot through... ..I am hoping I can just slot the wings in later on - will have to figure out how... ..lastly, I made a template to start making the rear deck that covers the spar - this will later have the ammo bins etc.. ..essentially this is the layout of the internal structure of a Hornet cockpit - the kit has a full bulkhead where the seat goes which is not right so I would have had to change this area anyway... ..it's now a blank canvas where I expect to spend may happy months fiddling about - tune in if you can stay awake... ..until next time folks TTFNPeter Lars Befring, Uilleann, geedubelyer and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 Works well Peter! Keep 'em coming! Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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