Citadelgrad

Wrapping up with the kit contents, the majority of the clear parts are held on Eduard's signature circular sprue.  Even though this circular sprue was held in its own bag, both the windscreen and the bubble canopy were detached and floating in the bag.

 
 
Thankfully, there does not appear to be any damage to the canopy parts.

 
 
The supplied photoetch includes pre-painted parts for the cockpit and some unpainted detail parts as well.

 
 
Markings for six aircraft are supplied on this huge decal sheet.  Biggest I've encountered and wouldn't fit on my desktop scanner. These are the newer style decals from Eduard that feature a removable clear carrier, similar to the wet transfer decals from HGW and 1ManArmy.

 
 
I am planning to do a natural metal bird from Royal Indian Air Force circa 1947.

 
 
Construction will start in the cockpit and my attention is drawn to the three ways Eduard provides for the instrument panel. The first version has molded detail on the instrument faces that are meant to be painted.  The second version provides partially flat faces for the panels that are meant to be used with the kit-supplied decals for the instrument faces.  The third version uses the pre-painted phototetch parts.

 
 
Since the molded detail version lacks the raised instrument dials, I thought I would morph the three version into two alternatives.  1: Using the decals on the molded detail parts and 2: removing all of the raised details on the 2nd version and applying the photo-etch parts onto that. Same purplish grey that Eduard seems to use on ALL of its instrument panels.

 
 
I'll have to double check to see if the decals actually line up with the molded details as I notice some differences between all three instrument panel version. But I've prepped Version 2 by removing all of the raised details.

 

Okay, so anyway here we are now...
Ready for primer. The first coat of Yellow green has gone on, since these photos were taken.
More on this story as events unfold...

It was quite a ride, but I have a Malcolm Hood mechanism to show you.  This is what I am trying to represent:
 

 
The chains, the emergency release pushrods, the sprocket support fittings, the crank handle, the emergency release handle, and the black cover plates.  Not the cross-tube.  That comes later.
 
First, just as what happened so many times back in the 1940's when -B's and -C's were getting their hoods, I had to relocate the recognition light switch box on the windshield frame.  From here:
 
 
 
To here:
 

 
Had to be done to clear the new crank handle.
 
All the parts printed up pretty well.  There is alot of small detail, especially the chain itself, so I went with the 30 micron thickness setting on the printer (I normally use 50 micron).   After careful removal of supports, and carefully painting, I got this collection of details:
 
 
 
And I had to be exceedingly careful at all stages of preparation - the long thin parts are so very fragile.  The black plates are not 3D printed - just old fashion scratch build with styrene sheet and Meng nuts.
 
Ok that was the easy part.  Installing these details into the airplane was the hard part - a most stressful and "stimulating" experience, trying to pry into a small space all these parts without breaking anything.  I broke one of the chains, but had a spare and used it.   Everything else worked out OK, sort of.  Pictures:
 
 
 

 

 
The 3D printed chains are a success, I am happy to announce.
 
Let's see the finished mechanism in the fuselage jig:
 

 

 

 

 
I need to do a better job painting up the rollers - I know.  But that comes later.  Glad to put this sub-project in the rear view mirror!
 
Next I believe is a bit of miscellaneous clean-up chores, and then the lower radio floor and the fuselage tank.  I've been waiting forever to get started on that.  Hope you like the chain drive!  Later.

Ipad user here.   First you need to find a photohosting site that plays well with the forum.  I use imageshack, there are others that will work.  Host the photo and then copy the url from there unto the post using “insert image from URL” button at the bottom right of the posting box.  
 
that works for me.  

Not much going on as of late. Finally found some time to spray some Graublau on the sides and tail. Needs some touch ups, as I was getting some tip dry on the airbrush which resulted in some splatters. Hopefully can get some more work done next week between work and life haha. 
 

And so the interior of the cabin came out, but still without the complete rear gunner's station.
 

I started my first LSP as an adult and finished it about 4 years later.
 
.25 at present is my record. 

I started my first LSP as an adult and finished it about 4 years later.
 
.25 at present is my record. 

I started my first LSP as an adult and finished it about 4 years later.
 
.25 at present is my record. 

I started my first LSP as an adult and finished it about 4 years later.
 
.25 at present is my record. 

I agree Citadelgrad, one has to grab a/m stuff when it comes out as most is made by cottage industry and dissapears quickly. Even Eduard stuff changes regularly.  I grab books also as and when I can.

This is my approach as well.  I've only built a few LSPs, but there is nothing worse than finding that some AM that is wanted is no longer around.  

I'm a piker and a newbie.   I was going to say no repeats, which is technically almost true, but I find I do have 2 FW190 F8s and old and new tool Revell, a hase Dora, and two (?) Ta 152s, a C and an H 0.  Well, there's a 48th scale 190, too, but I won that in a raffle, so. ...

I'm a piker and a newbie.   I was going to say no repeats, which is technically almost true, but I find I do have 2 FW190 F8s and old and new tool Revell, a hase Dora, and two (?) Ta 152s, a C and an H 0.  Well, there's a 48th scale 190, too, but I won that in a raffle, so. ...

I try to balance between accuracy and my limited abilities.   When I built my Gabreski P 47, I spent a lot of time figuring out what the drop tank plumbing was supposed to look like, and was pretty happy with the result.  
 
I also added corrugated to the floor because when I started, that was the info I had.  Win some, lose some.  
 
I try to build things that really existed, and try to make my model look, to my eye, like the real thing, but the draw for me is the mental distraction that a good hobby provides.  That's why I do this.  When I was young and inpatient, it was a race. N9w I spend years on and off working on a large kit. 
 
 

I try to balance between accuracy and my limited abilities.   When I built my Gabreski P 47, I spent a lot of time figuring out what the drop tank plumbing was supposed to look like, and was pretty happy with the result.  
 
I also added corrugated to the floor because when I started, that was the info I had.  Win some, lose some.  
 
I try to build things that really existed, and try to make my model look, to my eye, like the real thing, but the draw for me is the mental distraction that a good hobby provides.  That's why I do this.  When I was young and inpatient, it was a race. N9w I spend years on and off working on a large kit. 
 
 

I try to balance between accuracy and my limited abilities.   When I built my Gabreski P 47, I spent a lot of time figuring out what the drop tank plumbing was supposed to look like, and was pretty happy with the result.  
 
I also added corrugated to the floor because when I started, that was the info I had.  Win some, lose some.  
 
I try to build things that really existed, and try to make my model look, to my eye, like the real thing, but the draw for me is the mental distraction that a good hobby provides.  That's why I do this.  When I was young and inpatient, it was a race. N9w I spend years on and off working on a large kit. 
 
 

Last details to glue plus some areas to tweak and Tempest will end up in glass-case.

I try to balance between accuracy and my limited abilities.   When I built my Gabreski P 47, I spent a lot of time figuring out what the drop tank plumbing was supposed to look like, and was pretty happy with the result.  
 
I also added corrugated to the floor because when I started, that was the info I had.  Win some, lose some.  
 
I try to build things that really existed, and try to make my model look, to my eye, like the real thing, but the draw for me is the mental distraction that a good hobby provides.  That's why I do this.  When I was young and inpatient, it was a race. N9w I spend years on and off working on a large kit. 
 
 

I try to balance between accuracy and my limited abilities.   When I built my Gabreski P 47, I spent a lot of time figuring out what the drop tank plumbing was supposed to look like, and was pretty happy with the result.  
 
I also added corrugated to the floor because when I started, that was the info I had.  Win some, lose some.  
 
I try to build things that really existed, and try to make my model look, to my eye, like the real thing, but the draw for me is the mental distraction that a good hobby provides.  That's why I do this.  When I was young and inpatient, it was a race. N9w I spend years on and off working on a large kit. 
 
 

I remember you doing that research and to your credit, I'm using it on my 1/48 P-47D Razorback for the centerline drop tank.  I refered out to one of Tolga's threads on his P-47D Razorback build to learn about how to plumb the underwing drop tanks.

I try to balance between accuracy and my limited abilities.   When I built my Gabreski P 47, I spent a lot of time figuring out what the drop tank plumbing was supposed to look like, and was pretty happy with the result.  
 
I also added corrugated to the floor because when I started, that was the info I had.  Win some, lose some.  
 
I try to build things that really existed, and try to make my model look, to my eye, like the real thing, but the draw for me is the mental distraction that a good hobby provides.  That's why I do this.  When I was young and inpatient, it was a race. N9w I spend years on and off working on a large kit. 
 
 

I try to balance between accuracy and my limited abilities.   When I built my Gabreski P 47, I spent a lot of time figuring out what the drop tank plumbing was supposed to look like, and was pretty happy with the result.  
 
I also added corrugated to the floor because when I started, that was the info I had.  Win some, lose some.  
 
I try to build things that really existed, and try to make my model look, to my eye, like the real thing, but the draw for me is the mental distraction that a good hobby provides.  That's why I do this.  When I was young and inpatient, it was a race. N9w I spend years on and off working on a large kit.