TimHepplestone

Closed up the fuselage today. Fit was overall not bad. Seams will need a bit of work but nothing too demanding. I've seen some brilliant work on super detailing interiors in these forums. Afraid I didn't really bother (hence no photos). Just a basic paint job with a few photoetch details, none of wich is really visible anyway.
 
 

 
What is apparent is this is going to be a big plane though. Next to a 1/48 Hurricane for comparison. By the time this is finished I'm going to need a bigger photo table
 

Quick update. Painted op the SC 250 bombs and the bomb bay. Did a little bit of light weathering on the bombs. Base coated the body of the bombs dark green. Then took some very diluted sand coloured paint, and with the airbrush dialed down too such a low preasure that the paint just kind of splattered out, used that to create a sublte worn/mottled apprearence. After masking that if painted the fins black green to add a bit of contrast. Finally a dark brown wash for a bit of depth. 
The bomb bays are from the HE-111 P sprues rather than the external torpedoes or bomb rack that is appropriate to the H6 version. I felt the internal bomb bay was more relevant to the H2 or H3 version I'm trying to end up with though.

Quick update. Painted op the SC 250 bombs and the bomb bay. Did a little bit of light weathering on the bombs. Base coated the body of the bombs dark green. Then took some very diluted sand coloured paint, and with the airbrush dialed down too such a low preasure that the paint just kind of splattered out, used that to create a sublte worn/mottled apprearence. After masking that if painted the fins black green to add a bit of contrast. Finally a dark brown wash for a bit of depth. 
The bomb bays are from the HE-111 P sprues rather than the external torpedoes or bomb rack that is appropriate to the H6 version. I felt the internal bomb bay was more relevant to the H2 or H3 version I'm trying to end up with though.

Closed up the fuselage today. Fit was overall not bad. Seams will need a bit of work but nothing too demanding. I've seen some brilliant work on super detailing interiors in these forums. Afraid I didn't really bother (hence no photos). Just a basic paint job with a few photoetch details, none of wich is really visible anyway.
 
 

 
What is apparent is this is going to be a big plane though. Next to a 1/48 Hurricane for comparison. By the time this is finished I'm going to need a bigger photo table
 

Respectfully, I would disagree with that, Ray.  Trumpeters fit is nothing special and some of the details are poor.  The engine is not worth any attention other than to support the prop as it's too small.  It's also missing the inlet manifold off the supercharger.  This seems too typical of Trumpeters rather slap dash approach to some of their kits.  To me, if you're building a large scale plane, you want to see some decent detail, and that includes the engine.  Ideally, it would be great to mount the Airfix engine into the Trumpeter kit and since I have the MkIIC in my stash, I might give this a try when I get to building it.  I was very disappointed in this part of my Trumpy MkI. 
 
The old Airfix kit is still a good kit, with lots of detail worthy of some work and embellishment.  It's not up to their new Typhoon kit, but I've always felt it's the best of their earlier 1/24 scale kits.
 
 
Cheers,
Michael

Quick update. Painted op the SC 250 bombs and the bomb bay. Did a little bit of light weathering on the bombs. Base coated the body of the bombs dark green. Then took some very diluted sand coloured paint, and with the airbrush dialed down too such a low preasure that the paint just kind of splattered out, used that to create a sublte worn/mottled apprearence. After masking that if painted the fins black green to add a bit of contrast. Finally a dark brown wash for a bit of depth. 
The bomb bays are from the HE-111 P sprues rather than the external torpedoes or bomb rack that is appropriate to the H6 version. I felt the internal bomb bay was more relevant to the H2 or H3 version I'm trying to end up with though.

Ring flashes were developed for medical photography so doctors could see shadowless images of nasty **** they were treating and share the information with other sawbones. Then in the 70s fashion photographers adopted ring lights to give a shadow-free illumination to high-fashion models.
 
They're very good and you should have excellent results.

Tim,
 
I use one (this is my second actually) and it works pretty well.  What I'm finding is that lights wrapped around the lens is not always want you want for photographing a model.  Diffused light from the side or towards the top actually shows off the model details much better in many instances.  'Many' not 'all' is the caveat here of course. YMMV.  Top mounts are sometimes more desirable for creating soft shadows under aircraft.
 
What I find myself doing more and more is holding the ring flash where I want it and then take the picture.  Mine has a dial to change the intensity which also helps given the highly variable lighting that we seem to find ourselves in with our hobby.
 
Good luck and post some of the pictures you take!
 
Chris

The 'monster' is finally up on it's 'feet'...
 

 
It's huge!!!!
 

 
Cheers: Kent

Today update.
 

 

Thanks guys....Still plugging away...working up some figures,a grass and gravel base plus background..some ground equipment...Getting harder to find the time,But we will.
 
in progress

Radu's PE canopy finished....fit the CH kit very well.
 

Hi Tim,
 
I've been looking at one very seriously myself.
The most obvious thing would be the control panel. Airscale makes a very good photo etched/decal combo but the Yahu one will probably fit too.
The vinyl tires have to go but I don't see any good resin replacements. I could 3D print some new ones and cast in resin but I don't know if I could sell enough of them to cover the cost.
There are plenty of decals and masks available.
 
All in all I always loved this kit and I think to holds up pretty well, especially the engine.
 
good luck
 
Robert

That is a nice cockpit.  Good job, Chuck.
 
'Note that the two central gauges are Barracuda replacement decals, because the kit ones are wrong.'
What does the Tamiya represent, and what does the Barracuda represent?
 

I groove on that little silver fastened leather wire tie-down.
 

What does the P.E. handle in the foreground represent?
 
Thank you.
Sincerely,
Mark

The other side, which had way less plumbing to deal with.
 
 
 

 

 

 
 
A close-up….
 
 

 
 
That's it for now boys, but I am now totally committed to this build with all the work accomplished so far.
 
 
Cheers,
Chuck

Thank you sir for all that info!  Very interesting, especially when the Mustang was getting puttied wings about the same time, although a lot more extensively.  The pics I show above are of a Mk1a, so you are correct in your assumption that they were pre-1942 and putty was likely not applied.  Having said that, I'm sticking with the rivet detail, mostly because I just like it!  I wish I had done the same to my Mustang.
 
Cheers,
Chuck

Going to be a small vignette..just working up the cockpit,not really much of the CH pit was used,had a pile of bits and bobs in the parts bin.
               have several interesting figures coming as well. The only real scratched parts so far are the pilots seat(wrong shape),re-worked kit part and epoxy leather pad.
               Scratched up some new prop blades to use as well...the kit blades are,..I don't know..what's the right word,um....ridiculous??.  Don't get mad at me.
    So....a 109E-4 , factory fresh clean machine,might be fun.who knows?
 
 
      
 
This one.







Got my grubbies on these to go into it as well.

Life and work means bench time has been a bit haed to come by this week. Still managed to get a few hours in working on the undercarriage. The main wheels consist of lots of rather fragile plastic parts with shallow locating pins. Still it seems sturdy enough when put together. 

 

 
Just added brake lines as per my reference pics. After a coat of paint and weathered it looks like this

 
After market undercarriage would definitley be helpful but as the nearest set is about 7000 mies away I'll just have to make do, Hopefully the undercarriage will hold up.  

Some updates:
 

I'm gonna need a bigger man cave

I make a little notch in the end of the cocktail stick with a number 11 blade. Gives me finer control over the amount of superglue. And then the PE falls off later. Usually just after I've permanently glued the canopy

I make a little notch in the end of the cocktail stick with a number 11 blade. Gives me finer control over the amount of superglue. And then the PE falls off later. Usually just after I've permanently glued the canopy

This will be awesome. My grandfather was flight engineer and top gunner on B-24's.  They were part of the 406th Bomb Squadron, and flew the night leaflet missions.  His aircraft was "Black Jack", which he painted the nose art and mission markings.  

 
I did the ride in Witchcraft a few years ago.  Totally worth the price if you have a chance.  It gave me a whole new appreciation for what those guys went through in WWII.  
Here are the pics. 
https://imgur.com/a/64sg5

Life and work means bench time has been a bit haed to come by this week. Still managed to get a few hours in working on the undercarriage. The main wheels consist of lots of rather fragile plastic parts with shallow locating pins. Still it seems sturdy enough when put together. 

 

 
Just added brake lines as per my reference pics. After a coat of paint and weathered it looks like this

 
After market undercarriage would definitley be helpful but as the nearest set is about 7000 mies away I'll just have to make do, Hopefully the undercarriage will hold up.  

Really great work. Those merlins look brilliant. After seeing this thread I've crumbled and bought the kit. Will be following on with great interest.