Christoffer Lindelav

Hi Gerhard,
 
I built my own cabinet. Basically, it is an aluminum frame mounted on a lower (wooden) base and top Plexiglas plate. For the corners, I used special connectors for the frame-parts with screw threads, to the frame could be screwed to the lower and top plates with massive M8 screws.
The frame holds the side and rear walls (white colored wood plates and thin > light Plexiglas plate). For the shelves, I used toughened or tempered glass. On the forward perpendicular frames, I mounted hinges which hold toughened/tempered glass plats as doors.
The lower plate sits on furniture castors, so it can be moved. Due to the glass shelves and doors, the whole construction is pretty heavy. Keep the weight in mind when searching for furniture castors.
 
I ordered the wooden/ tempered glass plates with pre-cut/drilled holes for screwing /mounting to the hinges.
I bought the aluminum frames and connectors here:
http://www.alusteck.de/25-mm-alu-stecksystem/
 
Now I have a 80 cm deep cabinet which should provide enough room for a B-17 or forthcoming B-24s and Lancasters
 

 

 

 

 

Hmmmmm, A 41.25 inch, four engine monster hanging from inside my garage ceiling.  I would load it all up with all the aftermarket resin and photo etched machine gun barrels one could imagine.  I'd over engineer an invisible fishing line contraption out of a thousand pound fishing line to insure it would never, ever come down by accident. 
 
My lovely wife would smirk and say wow, honey that looks neat.  Is that a Messerschmitt or one of those late war, Funky wooky something or others?    She would soon forget about the masterpiece above her car and accidentally knock down my lovely Liberator with all the furry of a dozen flak 88 raining skyward at it with a tall ladder or perhaps a delayed Christmas box we use two weeks a year.  I'd come out to see my lovely Liberator laying in the harden impact, broken state on my well kept garage floor in a hundred pieces.   Death before me.  I would be a totally dejected and sad.  A Boeing B-17 however, would take all that punishment a Liberator simply can't.  The mighty fortress would take it on the chin and still be hanging from my garage ceiling on that over engineered fishing line contraption above my wife's car I made for it.  My Fortress would be laughing out loud at my wife's over jealous attempt in trying to bring her down!   ha ha ha!   
 
(I'm pretty sure the lovely Lancaster could take a beating too)!    

Will they have to release a special edition of that film with Spacey cgi'd out?

Using RTV silicone rubber - rubber to catalyst ratio 100:1.5
 
Cheap digital cooking scales I bought from Aldi a couple of years back - sensitive enough for this work:
 

 
Rubber and catalyst mixed thoroughly - and ready to be de-gassed. It's amazing how much air gets into the rubber when mixing - if we don't remove we may end up with voids in the mould.
 
Vacuum pump at left - vacuum pot at right - clear top worth it's weight in, well, clear acrylic!
 

 
With a vacuum applied - the rubber mix expands like a mad thing as the gas expands. I usually need to cycle several times to remove as much air as possible:
 

 
With the rubber mix poured into the moulding well - it's time for another few vacuum cycles.
 
After pour:
 

 
And, with vacuum applied:
 

 
And the degassed rubber - ready to solidify overnight:
 

 
Hopefully more of an update tomorrow - thanks for looking in!
 
Iain

And in a short time I had this..
 

 
I made up a base for the rear section and glued it on...
 

 
So this is where we are... Tune in next week to see what silly stuff I get up to..
 

A quick glance at the content of our new Reggiane Re.2000 Heja / J20 in Hungarian, Swedish and Italian schemes.
You can place your order via Silver Wings website (www.silverwings.pl).
The kit is available for purchase with a guaranteed shipping within 3 days upon purchase.
 
More photos available here: http://www.silverwings.pl/reggiane-re2000-intercettore-hej.html
 

 

 

 

 

Change of mind with the colours, RLM83 and RLM74 with RLM02
 
Re-painted the RLM75 on the front cowling 83 over 76 and much happier with the look
 

 
Started on the main paintwork.
 
Preshading with browns, blues and white on the undersides, tail and fuse sides
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Then hit with Mr Paint late war MRP-181 BLAUGRÃœN
 

 

 

 
Before adding the JG4 defence band. I've kept this on the light and dirty side because I need to overspray it and don't want to have too much build up to cover.
 

 
Couldn't help but pop the front on to see the overall
 

 
Aaron

Shame on them, they should be chased out of their offices, covered in linseed-oil and beaten with wet lettuce!

Last post was in July of 2016 - a year and a half ago.  Meanwhile.....
 
Just now, I have diamond tread tires for my 1/18 scale P-47 Thunderbolt.  How did I do it?  Well thanks to Bill who gave me a good idea for a saw cutting jig in this topic thread, I did a version of that idea.  I will start from the beginning.
 
First one must be able to manufacture or acquire a smooth tire.  Mine is a lathe turned acrylic one.  Here it is mostly complete on the lathe:
 
 

 
And finished:
 

 
At this point one must decide on the tread pattern - how many rows, etc.  For me that meant researching as many period photos as I could find and hoping I guessed about right.  In the end I decided the tire needed 28 rows, with alternating rows of three complete diamonds, and two complete diamonds with two half diamonds.  Then, a layout is required to determine the required angle of a straight saw cut.  Draw a rectangle of arbitrary length (but long enough to draw several rows of diamonds) and a width that accurately represents the unwrapped width of the desired tread pattern.  Here again I studied old photos to decide how far down the sidewall I wanted the tread to extend.  Use a large scale so as to minimize error.  You know that each diamond will be the diameter of the tire times pi divided by the number of rows (in my case 28).  The width of the diamond is the unwrapped width of the tread pattern divided by how many complete diamonds you want (in my case three).  The cut angle is then easily generated.  In my case it was 41.5 degrees from the centerline of the tire (83 deg for the completed diamond shape, nearly square but not quite).
 
Now one must able to accurately maintain the cut angle for each cut, and accurately maintain the spacing of each cut.  If you want to use a saw (that is what I decided), then you need a nice stout jig.  Here it is:
 
 
 
You see the jig itself with upright posts to guide the saw blade and control its cut angle, a wide slot in which to insert the tire, cradle slots in which to support the axle, and a fixed pin protruding from the near side that engages a geared wheel.  You also see the tire with special wheels, one of which is slotted to accept a cross pin on the axle.  And you see the axle itself with its cross pin and a geared wheel (28 teeth) bonded to it.  The teeth are meant to engage in the fixed pin on the jig, and meant to control the spacing of each cut.  Got it?
 
Here is the setup with the first cut accomplished:
 

 
And more cuts:
 

 
Now truth be told, this jig had some problems.  There is slop between the axle cross pin and its slot on the wheel, which allows some free rotation.  Also the spacing between the upright posts is a bit generous which allows the saw blade to wander a bit.  Add those up, and the diamond pattern becomes inconsistent, with unequal distance between rows such that some diamonds are larger than others, and/or mis-shapen.  Which is exactly what we do not want.
 
So I made modifications.  One, I added thicker shims to the sides of the saw blades such that the saw barely fit between the uprights thus eliminating any wiggle with the saw blade.  Two, I created equidistant drill starts on the OD of the tire, giving me a target in which to center the saw cut (I could rotate the tire within limits due to the slop between the cross pin and its slot).  And third, most importantly, I applied clamps to the jig once the tire was exactly positioned for the cut.
 
Some pics of the modifications:
 

 

 
This gave me a good result:
 

 
Were I to do it over, I would redesign the jig such that its posts were taller (allows for the cut to better wrap around the tire),and each pair of posts would be oriented perpendicular to the direction of cut, not the direction of the tire center plane.  That would provide a stiffer support for the saw blade.  I'd also want a slightly taller saw.
 
I want to thank (belatedly) all those modelers who contributed to this post.  You gave me great ideas.  I hope you like my solution and my result.  And I hope it may help some of you in similar endeavors. 

Thank you for bringing us a Swedish version with tre kronor. Really looking forward to this release!
/Stoffe

Thanks Guys! I will upload some photos of the casted parts soon.

Tre Krona!!!

We are proud to present a continuation of our 1/32 scale product line - the Reggiane Re.2000 in Swedish, Hungarian and Italian markings. The kit is our response to modellers' request for filling a market gap and manufacturing "the other Re.2000 version", very well known for its famous Heja and J20 variants.
 
The kit includes:
- resin parts
- film elements
- photo-etched elements
- color instruction
- different interiior and exterior elements for different variants
- decals sheet including 3 marking options
• Swedih Flygvapnet J 20 "45" s/n 2355 from 3. division, Gotland, September 1944
• Magyar Királyi Honvéd Légierő Reggiane Re.2000 Héja, V.421, 1/1 vadászszázad, flown by 1st Lieutnant István Horthy, Ilovskoye, August 1942
• Regia Aeronautica Reggiane Re.2000 “74†from Sezione Sperimentale of 74a Squadriglia, 230 Gruppo Autonomo CT, Comiso, May 1941
 
 
The kit will become available early March 2018 but you can place pre-order via your favorite distributor or directly via our website or by writing us at silverwings@silverwings.pl now.
 
Sincerely,
The Silver Wings Team
 

 

 

 

I will celebrate when Fly announces it. A pretty big jet for Fly. I will wait for their Tunnan's first.

I am proofing the CAD for the Seahawks now along with about five other people.  I take the suggestions that their research is bad or flawed.  I take a lot of time and employ a lot of subject matter experts on these helicopter kits.  Army guys are helping with the Army stuff.  Air Force guys with the Air Force and Navy guys on the Seahawks.  We are doing our best to find and correct any errors we see on the CAD.  If you have an issue with the research phase of the Hawks, blame me.  I am the point of contact for Kitty Hawk when it comes to helicopters.  Any inaccuracies, I take full responsibility for.  They draw it, we correct it until its released.  Do we catch everything?  No but we certainly do try.  Me and my team take this job very seriously as we want the most accurate helicopter kits on the market period. 
 
I'd say Kitty Hawk's helicopters are some of the best on the market.  Each one is getting better.  You may not agree but they are the most accurate ones on the market right now. 
Floyd

Saabs of all flavors and configurations (two seaters, recon, sea and land) .... Gripen, Viggen, Draken, and even the 105
 
Jaguar, especially a two seater
 
Tnarg

Helo modelmakers,
 
This is my recently finished Tamiya F-16CJ. The kit was a joy to build, as always with Tamiya. No big issues.
The only issue is the damn decals, i did not want to use aftermarket decals, so i used that was included with the kit. They are too damn thick!
Painting was done with Tamiya, Gunze, MRP, Alcalad II and Extreme metal AK.
Weathering was done with oils, AK and AMMO stuff.
 
AM
CMK/Czech Master Kits (only front wheel bay)
Master (Static dischargers)
Zactomodels (AIM 9L)
 
Here are the pictures, hope you enjoy
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My last project.
Mi-24W in special camouflage.
I am tired of building helicopters so I'm not planing take to the workshop in the near future.
At the moment I have four model of this helicopter.
 
 
This time the model has several additions:
 
SET: Trumpeter 1:35
BIG ED set
RESKIT resin wheels
RESKIT rocket launchers
Pitot from the Master
 

Good morning from Viet Nam !
 
This is my lattest build, the Saab Viggen AJ-37 from Special Hobby. This is actuallu a rebox of Tarangus Viggen with the added of color PE for the cockit.
 
The fit is good overall, consider the nature of limit run kit. There are some inaccuracies lies within the kit, especiall the tiny main wheels which is too thin. I used several plastic sheets to add the thickness then sand to shaped.
 
Paint use mostly with Gunze Color, weathering done with Mig and chipping here and there with color pencil
 
The splinter camo is the hardest paint job I have done up to date. Maestor made a paint mask sheet for this camo, however the fit isn't that good and need a lot touch up to follow.
 
Weapons are Maverick Missles from Eduard, RBF tags, others are from spare box. Pitot tubes from Master Model ( I think )
 
The Saab Viggen will surely stand out from all the F 16,18 etc thanks to it camo and muscle shape. The build was fun but the splinter camo is something I won't try again
 
Thanks for reading !
 

The 'monster' is finally up on it's 'feet'...
 

 
It's huge!!!!
 

 
Cheers: Kent

So this is my next build on the bench
 

 
30.04.45 - FW 190 A-8 W.Nr 739 136 'White 15 + -' of II.(Sturm.)/J.G. 4
 
'White 15 + -' took off from Parchim, north-west of Berlin, piloted by another Estonian, Oblt. Anatol Rebane. This FW 190 was scrapped in Sweden in 1946. Anatol Rebane lived in the West after the war, and after leaving the United States in 2002, now lives in Estonia again.
 
Found Claes Sundin's profile on his website and fell in love with the late war appearance.
 

 
Then found several images of the plane which are perfect for an accurate build (hopefully)!
 

 
Hasegawa kit for the build
 

 

 
Eduard PE for the pit
 

 
And started on it, whilst the paint dries on the Kolibri
 

 

 

Thanks for the update - much appreciated.
Hope the J.29F comes first (or the two boxings are simultaneous, like the first pair of Wessex).
Positively bursting to put Swedish roundels on a jet - might just have to do a titchy scale Draken to stay sane.
 
Tony

One learns patience in this hobby, doesn't one?
I have been waiting 12 years for the 1/32 Val (by Craftworks)
So what is another 2 to 3 months? No more than a pimple on the tush of time.

Hi,
 
got an email today from Jiri Valek, he told me that the release date of the Tunnan is delayed to "maybe April 2018".
 
Cheers, Heinz

He said Draken....
He said Viggen...
 
and we really do have two versions of the Tunnan on the way, supposedly soon... Nice!
 
Might I add a Saab 105? It looks so interesting with large orange-red patches on that Swedish Splinter camouflage. Probably have as much chance with this one as a Martin B-10B, but I'd love both of them in 1/32.
 
Tnarg