thunderbolt1988

I would totally buy; 

the skin was definitely stressed out of the factory. it's just that Airfix has overdone the effect by making it too uniform and ubiquitous. it's a great first step on their part and the kit seems excellent overall

the skin was definitely stressed out of the factory. it's just that Airfix has overdone the effect by making it too uniform and ubiquitous. it's a great first step on their part and the kit seems excellent overall

the skin was definitely stressed out of the factory. it's just that Airfix has overdone the effect by making it too uniform and ubiquitous. it's a great first step on their part and the kit seems excellent overall

the skin was definitely stressed out of the factory. it's just that Airfix has overdone the effect by making it too uniform and ubiquitous. it's a great first step on their part and the kit seems excellent overall

I love your work and approach to painting!

Yes, yes! You are absolutely right. The overall shape is more important, then some true dimensions. I just found them to give some "direction" to my own mind, as I am also "lucky" owner of this kit and thinking now about my own correction. There were some kind of reflections, thinking of the topic. I'll try to draw some Rhino files to see.

My Fw 190D-9 that I started in 2008 probably belongs on here...

No - windscreens and forward windows remained unchanged throughout production. The earlier 'sharkfin' tailed models had a third side window fitted and the really early ones had no upper windows, but the windscreen itself was unaltered. The only exception was the later models, when some were fitted with the small 'ice windows' as part of the windscreen. Both Sentimental Journey and Memphis Belle would have had identical cockpit glass arrangements.

Thank you!

The basic problem has been talked about for years already: exaggerated convexity from the 10 to 2 o'clock positions looking at the model head on shifts the HK windscreen up what looks to be at least 1 and as many as 2 mm. It isn't a direct shift upward either; the window proportions are off due to changes in aspect ratio made to accommodate the convexity of the kit nose. Thus, windscreen correction must address (1) relative height of windscreen to windows and (2) absolute windscreen shape relative to reality. 
 
Here is my juxtapositional analysis of the differences between the kit and the reality. 

Caption: 
LOWER: in reality the lower edge of the windscreen is nearly flush with the side windows 
UPPER: in reality the upper edge of windscreen is slightly lower than the windows and the roof is thicker 
HOOD: the hood is noticeably thicker in reality. 
 
If I had the kit, I think I would know what to do. 
 
(I suspect), an effective correction accepts the location of the side windows as truth and uses their location as a reference point to shift the windscreen downward.
- Shifting the windscreen downward would require special attention to both the upper and lower sides. 
- On the upper side, the gap created will need to be filled with plastic card which will thicken the roof more in line with reality. Because thickness is being added to a slope, the windscreen will shift forward by some small amount, which would need to be reconciled with the fuselage join later.
- On the lower side, the framing to which the clear plastic joins (I.e., the very front, lower part of the turtledeck piece) will need to be flattened (via thinning and bending) to more accurately reflect reality. In all likelihood, the very lower edge of the frame will need to be cut free from the rest of the turtledeck to permit its proper positioning and bending: 
 

 
- The clear plastic would be sacrificed, painted over and glued with the polystyrene hood to permit accurate shaping of the windows, which would be drawn with a sharpie using good photographs, drilled out, and glassed with a clear acetate backing from the inside. At that point, the windscreen would have been corrected, and the major remaining task would be (1) flattening the fuselage and (2) ensuring a clean, accurate join between the fuselage and windscreen. 
 
Regarding how I think the fuselage should be approached, the essential aim would be to remove the entire upper section of the nose, making a flexible "hood" that is very thin to promote flexibility, and shorter on the sides to promote flattening when the sides are re-approximated. 
 
If I did try this, I would assemble the sections outlined in red below, and then cut them out as one unit. Before cutting, I would drill a series of parallel holes on the hood and on the lower 2/3 of the fuselage directly opposed from one another, with the ultimate goal of using a pursestring suture to perfectly reapproximate the edges. As the suture tension is dialed in, the piece flattens to meet the windscreen as desired.
 

 
Flattening can only occur using a tensing technique if the sides get shorter. Thus, I would remove about 0.5 to 1 mm from the lateral edges and then reduce the thickness of the "hood" to near paper to make it as flexible as possible. The point of removing plastic from the edges it to reduces the height of the hood as the edges are reapproximated once again. The fuselage shape is adjusted to accommodate the reduction in windscreen height and the flatness of the lower frame. It may result in a perfect level of flatness, it may not. The correction obeys the windscreen and not the fuselage. the bet is that if the windscreen shape is corrected, the fuselage will follow naturally. 
 
Does this make sense?
 
One day, I will try it and share my work
 

Was the Fw 190A-5/U12 ever modified to have the protective Sturmbock armor in addition to its lovely gun packs?
 
The German innovations made in response to their desperate war situation fascinate me. I mean' look at those guns. It's as if they really wanted to shoot bombers down or something. . .

Amazing NMF though! How'd you do it?

finished: 

 
 
 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

 

Amazing NMF though! How'd you do it?

finished: 

 
 
 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

 

Preshading. 
 

 

 
 

Was the Fw 190A-5/U12 ever modified to have the protective Sturmbock armor in addition to its lovely gun packs?
 
The German innovations made in response to their desperate war situation fascinate me. I mean' look at those guns. It's as if they really wanted to shoot bombers down or something. . .

Absent a formal review I can guarantee you it's the same basic kit with some new variant specific sprues and I'm sure it will be a great build

Airframe assembled. The Eagleparts supercharger intake is evident. 

 
The MDC spinner fitted temporarily. I later placed this with the Eagleparts example. 

 
Airframe canopy masked off and airframe painted alclad aluminum as a primer 

 

 

 
 

Fortunately, he's a moderator here so you can pm him and ask what he did.
 
I don't think he modified the instrument panel so my thoughts are he just recontoured the nose.

"I award you no points, and may God have mercy on your soul." 

that whole cold fusion thing sounds easier 

Reimund, thanks for posting the images of the new Sturmbock kit I'm excited someone is releasing it in 1/32 scale. I do see a few problems right off. For some reason they have an oval panel on the port side of the fuselage just  behind the cooling flaps. It does not belong there. You are right about the colors. Undersurfaces RLM 76, Upper RLLM 75 and RLM 74 is correct. I don't see the armored windscreen triangular quarter panel it is not on the art work anyway.  Most Sturmbock a/c had them. There is confusion about "Yellow 3". The A-8/R2 as shown is W.Nr. 680718 was never at Barth in May, 1944. It was built on 19 June ,1944 and Fw. Ottfried Baisch was killed in it on 18 July ,1844. There is only one known photo of it and the tactical number is not known and the unit emblem cannot be seen in the photo. Baisch's earlier Sturmbock was "Yellow 3" W.Nr. unknown and was mounted with the Krebs-Gerät rocket but it was not a A-8/R2, it was a standard A-8 with Sturmbock equipment(R7). It did have the unit badge on the Panzerplatten not on the engine cowling. 
    Cheers, Jerry
 

I like what you did with the nose. How did you go about it?
Any new progress on this kit?
Thx