Hasegawa Fw 190D-9 "Blue 12" WNr. 500570

[Thunderbolt]

In 2008, I began constructing "Blue 12," but was forced to set the project aside until now. I only worked on it a little bit in 2010 since then. This kit represents a massive undertaking for me as a modeller due to the amount of AM, research and extra work I am putting into the kit. Before this project, I completed Dortenmann's colorful D-9 using the old Hasegawa "high grade" kit, which features raised rivets on the wings and incorrect MG 151/20 bulges. Before that, I completed Hartmann's "White 1," which I consider my best work to date. (I will post pictures of this in the appropriate thread soon.) I am seeking to use JaPo's latest book, "Focke-Wulf FW-190D Camouflage & Markings - Part II" to create the most realistic rendition of "Blue 12" as possible. A lot of disagreement exists concerning the correct paint scheme for a such a well-documented aircraft. My understanding is the JaPo book lays any uncertainty to rest. My goal is to make a diorama with American soldiers and the pilot who surrendered. (Will be tough as I can't find 1/32 soldiers anywhere.) I want to simultaneously depict the surrender of Nazi Germany and the American fascination with captured German technology.

 

This, in a way, is the classic AM 190 - any and all AM to create the most opened-up, super-detailed monster possible. In another way, it's a little different. The goal in this build is to use the Eagle Parts replacement gun cowl, along with the rest of the Aires AM engine parts to depict a Dora an open-engined Dora with an accurate gun cowl as the Aires offering offers little correction on what the kit offers. I am also riveting the entire airplane using the MDC rivet tool. I acquired blueprints of the plane that will make this process accurate and easy. This project also represents my first go at the stressed skin effect, which I am modifying by using an MDC rivet tool instead of using a pounce wheel. I believe the MDC tool produces a much more realistic effect that is worth the extra pain involved. I have acquired a Fw 190D manual which shows how most of the Jumo 213 engine is plumbed and wired, but some ambiguity still remains.

 

 

Parts list:

Hasegawa 1/32 Fw 190D-9 kit

Eagle Parts Cockpit

Aires Fw 190D-9 Superdetail Set

EP Cowling

EP Drop Tank

EP Tail Wheel

EP 3-Piece Gun Cowl

True details wheels

Eduard Instrument Panel

Eduard Flaps

Master MG131 barrels

Posable tail control surfaces (forget company)

 

...I Think that's it? I may have missed something...

 

 

pictures to come. I suppose I have to upload them elsewhere on the web before I can attach them here?

Edited May 30, 2025 by Thunderbolt

[LSP_Kevin]

Welcome aboard Christian!

 

I'm building the Hasegawa High Grade kit myself at the moment, though I'm converting it to a D-11. I also built Dortenmann's aircraft using the ancient Revell kit some years ago. Looking forward to seeing your build!

 

pictures to come. I suppose I have to upload them elsewhere on the web before I can attach them here?

 

That's correct; just use Photobucket or similar, and link your photos from there. There's a tutorial about it in General Discussion too.

 

Kev

[LSP_K2]

[Loic]

[mattlow]

Welcome Christian.

 

Airfix made/make a series of 1/32 soldiers, they were called 'multipose' and came as sets of about 8/pack. Seperate arms, legs, torso, head (I think) and then an array of equipment to add. I think they are quite well regarded. They do a set of US Army, Europe, so should be just what you're after. Type 'Airfix Multipose' into Google and you'll get plenty of hits.

 

Matt

[BradG]

Should be good mate. Just a note though, if you wish to depict the aircraft as it was when captured, it carried no drop tank. I got some more pics if you want me to scan them for you.

 

[A.Wolf Grant]

Obant.

[Thunderbolt]

Thanks for the welcomes guys!

 

LSP_Kevin: How are you going about the D-11 conversion? I like the way the D-11 looks. Also, thanks for the tutorial link; here's a test shot:

 

 

Mattlow: All the 1/32 airfix soldiers I saw in google had very obvious combat poses. I need to be able to do something more relaxed. Am I missing something? May need to break out the old blowtorch if not...

 

BradG: Yes, you are absolutely correct. I bought the drop tank early in the build when I was still uncertain I would finish my D-9 as "Blue 12." Any and all pictures would be very much appreciated, as I still have not purchased the JaPo book yet! Please note that I have seen the pictures that come with the EagleCals. If you have others, then I have never seen them before, and that is very exciting!

 

 

All in all, thanks for your warm welcomes guys. Look forward to hearing from you all as I finish this daunting project!

[brewer]

Sounds like quite a project, can't wait to see some pics!

Also, glad to see another 20-something on the forums

Edited January 22, 2012 by brewer

[LSP_Kevin]

LSP_Kevin: How are you going about the D-11 conversion?

 

All the gory details are in the build thread I linked to. Which reminds me, I must get back to it soon! Great job on Dortenmann's aircraft by the way.

 

Kev

[mattlow]

Christian

 

Yes, I was thinking they'd make a good basis for converting - especially as the arms and legs are seperate.

 

 

Matt

[Thunderbolt]

Ok, test photo worked, here are more!

 

These are all from 2008. I will let you know the approximate age of each batch of photos as I upload them.

 

The Eduard instrument panel:

Pre-surgery drilling:

cockpit tub:

 

fuselage interior:

Edited January 24, 2012 by thunderbolt1988

[Thunderbolt]

Here is the fuselage closed up:

2008 photo

In addition to this work, I built the Eduard flaps and riveted half of the lower wing. I then let the project sit until October of 2010.

 

-October 2010-

While thinning out the inside of the lower wing to accomodate the gun bays, disaster struck. I was dremeling at max rpm when suddenly, the 1.5 cm-wide sanding cylinder I was using got caught on the edge of the port ejector chute. Instantly, a huge hole was torn in the lower wing. The same day, I fixed it as the photos show:

 

2010 photos:

 

just finished puttying and sanding the hole. I didn't take a picture of the immediate damage. You can see the outline of the dremel attachment where the plastic shows strain.

I marked the rectangular portion of the chute using a sharpie:

drilled it out and dremeled the rest:

thinned it from inside:

cut it to size

made sure it looked right under paint (I still need to add that lower cutout)

 

phew! not perfect but I'm glad I was able to save the wing from the scrap heap.

I have since corrected the rivets shown in these pictures as some are totally fanciful.

[Thunderbolt]

October 2010: Stressed Skin Effect.

 

Measure and plot some key landmarks with a sharpie; draw lines:

Out with the scalpel - just a few light scrapes:

Burnish trenches and polish, check for micro scratches:

rivet:

Boom! My first time at this. I was pretty satisfied with my work, but I must admit I wasn't able to do this job without there being a few micro scratches here and there. Two remedies for next time: use a more rigid blade. Blade flex while drawing the scalpel across the plastic creates repeating line patterns perpendicular to the motion of the blade. The second remedy: use an extremely sharp, brand-new blade. I want to stress Hasegawa's P-47D in NMF, so I'll need to have mastered this technique to produce a convincing result. The two remedies I've got in mind should be a good start.

[Thunderbolt]

Here is where she stands now, January 22, 2012:

 

Kev - Thanks! I threw it together in a little under a week. I actually meant to order the new-tool 190 but ordered this instead by accident. When I opened the box I was a little horrified to discover my mistake, but I just said, "eh, Dortenmann's "Black 1" it is." You're definitely up to some gory work on that D-11...I am really admiring your panel line scribing ability It's a big weakness of mine.

 

Matt - I'll get them. I agree they'll make a great basis. My experience with figures is very limited, but I'll try to heat the joints gently to bend them into more desirable poses. We'll see how it goes. Thanks a lot for telling me about them, as I probably would have just went with 1/35 figures.