TwoHands

evening ladies
 
 
 
Hi Jay - thanks for the tips - I have no real refs for what is going on and have just found page 290 of the manual seems to show some of the workings - I will just have to see what I do when I get there as I can't say I have anything as sophisticated as a plan
 
 
 
 
Thanks Andy - yes, it is going to be a bit odd painting all the tailfeathers black, and I will have to also paint the insignia & anti-glare panel... thats what I like about NM airframes - little paint
 
so, it's been raining all day here, so what better excuse that to spend the day at the bench
 
here is the task - something else I have been quietly dreading as it's so distinctive...
 

 
..the B/C doors are very different to the D, so this pic of Lopes Hope is super valuable reference..
 
I started by getting the PE templates I had made a while back along with lots of other bits & bobs after scaling the drawings - once I had these I made up laminates of sheet stock until I had the thickness right and dremmeled out the wheel disc and started to prepare the indentations...
 

 
..further refining the shapes and a quick test to see how the skin responds to the plastic core shapes..  seems ok so we press on...
 

 
..once the core is finished and has cutouts for the retraction arm etc added, it was lightly CA'd to a perspex sheet to start the skinning process...
 

 
..after one try where I split the sheet, I CA'd the core to the PE door template and then CA'd that to the perspex - after working it some details start to be added..
 

 
..the sheet was then removed from the core so the raised rivets can be added..
 

 
..the outer skins were made up..
 

 
,,and after making the covering strip & painting it, the doors were assembled & detailed with brackets etc..
 

 

 
..this side has a strut mount in a semi-circualr indent..
 

 
,,and this side has the retraction strut mount..
 

 
,and in place will look something like this..
 

 

 
..thats it for now, lets hope it rains again tomorrow
 
TTFN
Peter
 
 

Surely it is obvious even to you that people of 30 years ago used to expend a great deal of effort to acquire information. By comparison, it takes about 15 seconds of sitting on one's backside to Google anything and everything these days.
 
And, we actually talked to each other. Remember having conversations without typing? Yeah, that old thing humans used to do. 
 
Kind of strange you'd jump straight to magazines and assume no human contact... 
 
D

I took these photos from the observation deck at the Canadian Warplane Heritage Museum. Hope they help, you should be able to click on theimage and enlarge them if you need a closer look:
 

 

 

Some canopy detail:

 

 
Richard

As an old aircraft engineer friend once said to me, “ there’s nothing wrong with brute force as long as you know how much to apply, and where to apply it,” as he tapped home the top strut bolt on a Piper Cub with a hammer.
 
John
 

crikey that engine looks absolutely stunning.  

I got up the courage last night and started to paint with Alclad Duraluminum. I was given some advice on Facebook of all places, and shown an experiment he did with panels primed in black, and different shades of grey. It looked very effective, and made things simpler by making it possible to paint using only one shade of metal. I sprayed the various colours on Friday, and let them cure for couple of days. Anyway, here are the before photos:
 

And the undersides:
 

HAMMER? He's using a hammer!!!!

HAMMER? He's using a hammer!!!!

One major step closer!  All of the major markings are now painted!  Gloss coat next and then a few decals.  Cheers. Matt

Hi All,
Of all the models I have painted this is by far the most difficult. And it’s only one colour!
There are many versions of GSB to choose from from different manufacturers and each is a little different.  And in the end I decided on the Tamiya mix  of xf17, xf8, xf2 in a 5:3:2 ratiowhich to my eye comes close.  The difficulty is getting any depth into the finish.  I like to post shade my paint and with lighter colours it’s easy as  the contrast between your base colour and your post shade is not as great as it is with a dark colour such as this blue.  I think I’m getting there after lots of trial and error. Ive left the paint with a touch more contrast that I would  ideally like but think that will reduce with washes filters and oils but I can at least see light at the end of the tunnel!
cheers
matt




 

A little??? HAHAHA!

Hi everyone, a small budget sheet for the 1/32 Revell Fw 190 A-8/R2 as I had some space left on another decal sheet I needed to fill. Enjoy. Should be available by end of September

A little??? HAHAHA!

A little??? HAHAHA!

A little??? HAHAHA!

Love how your handling the finish. It really sets off that surface effect!

That is one BIG jump jet. Enjoying your work tremendously!

TRUE......SOOOOO TRUE !!!

You joke now, but I'll put money on just those types of comments showing up 30 seconds after the first sprue shot drops.  

But, just look at that misshapen nose, cowlings/nacelles, and those divot-rivets! Who in their right mind would ever shell out hard currency for such a monstrosity?

It's pretty low on the list since Eduard already released a set.
 
I'll consider both of these, though I glanced through my Tomcat references and don't really have good enough references for either.
 
They are made to fit the Trumpeter kit.
I did set a pair on the Tamiya kit and it looks like they might fit with a little work.
 
To keep the price down I decided to just fix the horrible forward section.
 

 
I will be starting a thread in the vendors forum in a few days.
 

Looking good Guy!
 
I think the debate over stressed-skin is going to become a matter of taste. Depending on light source, period photo's do seem to support Airfix's approach...
 

 

 
Sean

I have thought this many times watching this build! Then you have to decide- where does it end?

I have thought this many times watching this build! Then you have to decide- where does it end?